Post your Roadie

[gregb]

... Cable disc brakes were not tested because the author of that article did not feel they offer any significant advantage; they still have all (or more) of the cable drag that is the real limiting factor of brake modulation.

Does anyone know if there has been a comparison between hydraulic rim brakes and hydraulic discs? Or cable discs v cable rims?

Last February I was on the upgrade path and I went for discs. There has been at least one occasion where I would have been off (roundabout went in too quick on a slightly damp road) had I still been on the rim brakes.

 

[The Duckmeister]

I haven't heard of any proper comparison tests, but hydro rim brakes give the improved modulation & efficiency for input effort, but suffer the same inconsistent braking in various conditions as cable rim brakes.

Cable discs come with the more consistent braking, but at the cost of less efficiency through increased cable drag and stretch thanks to longer cables - they make your fingers work harder to get the same effect. Cable discs don't self-adjust for pad wear like hydros do, so need periodic adjustment, which depending on model can be a more fiddly business than pretty well any other brake.

 

[ducky1988]

Since this thread is already slightly off track.
Does anyone suffer pain on the outside of the hand after being on the drops for a while?

 

[Cave Dweller]

Cannondale

In race setup

 

[redbruce]

Why tourer? Coz you might get caught out in the rain ?

No. Because there is generally another up to 30 kg on the bike and I commonly end up in hilly terrain.

Better modulation and power in brakes touring is a godsend, especially when caught out with rain.

I haven't heard of any proper comparison tests, but hydro rim brakes give the improved modulation & efficiency for input effort, but suffer the same inconsistent braking in various conditions as cable rim brakes.

Cable discs come with the more consistent braking, but at the cost of less efficiency through increased cable drag and stretch thanks to longer cables - they make your fingers work harder to get the same effect. Cable discs don't self-adjust for pad wear like hydros do, so need periodic adjustment, which depending on model can be a more fiddly business than pretty well any other brake.

Pretty much my experience.

I ditched the Magura hydro rim brakes for disks at the first rim replacement (wear in sidewall).

Best cable disk caliper is Avid BB7. I still use them on the tourer only because they are more field serviceable.

They are not as powerful as hydro's but I use a larger disk to help compensate.

 

[pistonbroke]

To me road bike means road race bike. And that to me that means the fastest bike is the best. I don't think disc brakes make anyone any faster. If I was buying a high end road bike I would want it to be the fastest lightest bike I could get. This to me means mechanical group and rim brakes.
If I was buying a touring bike or endurance road bike it may be another story. Di2 and hydro discs would be great.

 

[Boom King]

To me road bike means road race bike. And that to me that means the fastest bike is the best. I don't think disc brakes make anyone any faster. If I was buying a high end road bike I would want it to be the fastest lightest bike I could get. This to me means mechanical group and rim brakes.
If I was buying a touring bike or endurance road bike it may be another story. Di2 and hydro discs would be great.

I think you could mount a reasonably successful argument for disc brakes making the bike faster on the descent and quite probably in the wet too.

 

[gregb]

I don't think disc brakes make anyone any faster.

Absolutley, brakes will only slow you down.

 

[Haakon]

Am ready to ditch the TRP Spyres on my roadie. They are pretty good for mechanical discs and I've been pleasantly surprised with them (and of course are better than rim brakes), but the cables need to be perfect or there is annoying stiction. And of course cables are rarely perfect...

Combined with a recently discovered love of SRAM after buying an Anthem with X01 kit, a SRAM Force groupset with hydraulic discs is looking mighty tempting!

 

[Cúl-Báire]

Not a great picture, but it's a picture none the less. (I will take another , better one, I promise)

My "New" BH Ultralight, this frame-set replaced my Norco after the wifey drive it into a carport... Running Ritchey components, DA 7900 Mechanical Group, pictured with my training wheels 303/404 tubs (Have newer 404 tubs for racing).
Fantastic bike, well balanced, light and is a dead set rocket when you start stomping! :third:

 

[Sumgy]

Disc brakes on roadies are for pussies.

 

[nakedape]

Built this to keep me busy while injured.

 

[BorisBC]

Just bought my first roadie - Giant Defy Disc 2.

 

[Kingray7]

Scott Solace 10:

 

[Cúl-Báire]

Few updates, changed the saddle, post and stem... Now comes it at 6.78kgs with the climbing wheels, could loose a bit more but I am happy with how it rides so won't be making too many more changes :spy:

With Race Wheels....


Climbing wheels...

 

[Matt C]

Concorde. First steel bike I've owned and loving it !


Trek Domane. Built from scratch but essentially a 5.9. Giant Contact carbon SLR Bars ( by far the best bars I've used), wheels rebuilt with Aerolites, (originals were a faulty batch of AeroComps), Ceramic Speed bearings in wheels and running Bonty AW3s because this thing is on more singletrack and gravel than it was made for.

 

[RB 24]

Wild trek Matty.

Got a good mate that has his sixth millionth trek. Each are warranty frames due to the kooky bb setup. Just keep an eye on it buddy and replace the bearings more often than you think especially if playing on dirt.

How do you find the CS bearings?.

 

[Matt C]

Wild trek Matty.

Got a good mate that has his sixth millionth trek. Each are warranty frames due to the kooky bb setup. Just keep an eye on it buddy and replace the bearings more often than you think especially if playing on dirt.

How do you find the CS bearings?.

Thanks mate ! I run a Trek shop so yeah, I'm well aware of the bottom bracket issues. For reference, the best fix, which shit's me that it even needs a 'fix', is to replace them with the tapered Enduro bearings. Don't get me started on carbon press fit bb shells...:rant:

Here's a bit of a post that I put on Facebook about the bearings.



"Been out for a few rides after fitting the Ceramic bearings. I should have done a real world test like descending my street only coasting and seeing the difference in max speed. Oh well. Anyway, I ride my bike enough to be able to tell and it definitely rolls smoother and holds speed much easier. I also reduced the tension the spring clip had on the pawls in the rear wheel and the rolling time extended to 1min 55sec. Having said that, if I only put the bare minimum of grease in the steel bearings and cut away the inner lip of the seals to reduce drag, I wonder if it would have had the same effect ? I'll never know because I'm lazy as shit and I'm not swapping them out until they wear out ! Bottom line...The Domane is feeling on point right now. Just need to sort the engine out."

I wouldn't recommend the bearings at full retail, I only bought them because they were going ridiculously cheap from the wholesaler.

Oh, I will add that my comment about the Giant bars being the best, that is in reference to the tops being a comfortable shape and the drops a good height. In an effort to improve fitness, I've been doing sprint intervals and i feel like I'm going to snap these bars when sprinting in the lower section of the drops. The forward section, just under the levers is fine though. I know i'm really not going to break them but they are super flexy and it's pretty unnerving. Carbon bars have saved my hand on the longer rides though.

 

[BLKFOZ]

Concorde. First steel bike I've owned and loving it !
Trek Domane. Built from scratch but essentially a 5.9. Giant Contact carbon SLR Bars ( by far the best bars I've used), wheels rebuilt with Aerolites, (originals were a faulty batch of AeroComps), Ceramic Speed bearings in wheels and running Bonty AW3s because this thing is on more singletrack and gravel than it was made for.

What's you opinion on the AW3's?

I got a set (25mm) from my local dealer and was down to the casing in around 2000km on the rear with a bit longer on the front - all road, no gravel. They recon they've never seen such quick wear and told me they would send them back to look at warranty but obviously nothing eventuated.

I get 4-5K+ out of Conti GP4's (again 25mm) for reference and they seem to have similar puncture resistance.

 

[Chriso_29er]

Picked up my first Roadie a couple of days ago.
Took it for its first climb this morning.

Giant TCR Pro