Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

Haakon

has an accommodating arse
A mate specifically asked for "a dildo tow ball" in a bwm dealer. many laughs
They are a bit dodgy looking :) But they're a good towbar. I dont need the caravan capable square receiver style, total overkill and too heavy.

This bar is 95% for bike rack duty, and occasional light trailer use. I bought from Germany Ebay and its been great - and a LOT cheaper than the massive Oz made ones...
 

SummitFever

Eats Squid
This guy has some really informative stuff. He's also doing a scratch build on car in his garage. The results are quite impressive given how little machinery he has:

 

binner

Hath shat hymself
Shit the bed, I've seen junkies cars in better knick than that ^ ...
sometimes I'm methodical when I take apart the dash, air con n console to get the wiring harness out complete and other times I like to use my lump hammer and let out some frustration ;);):p
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Managed to spend some time this week on the XR4. Getting ready for the next sprint which will be a test of some enhanced suspenders.



New stiffer (just a little) springs and adjustable shocks. Modified top mounts to suit.



Spacers fitted to the lower arms to give just over -3deg camber at the rear. Like my box trailer?



The diameter of the stock spring was never going to get us enough front camber so the alternative was to make a coilover strut. This is a collection of multiple bits. Mitsubishi lower leg (still needs shimming, just a tad too small), generic adjustable coilover (data sheet posted earlier), machined spring perches to take a standard 2.5" spring and there will be a modified upper strut mount to give adjustable camber. Raw mounts in the background with the XR4 stock unit and my safety glasses!





The 5 series upper mount is too large so it was machined to fit into the space available under the XR4 strut tower. These are used mounts so were free!!!!! Don't worry about the half cut through holes, those were where the BMW tower bolts were fitted. The XR4 has two of the strut bolts running parallel to the adjustment slots so there is plenty of room given the smaller pcd. I will set these up tomorrow in the mill and drill the holes and fit the press in studs.

This is the first real job I have done on the new lathe and I have to say it is superb. Until today I only had time to do a few test cuts, check the speeds etc and confirm that nothing moved in transit and it is turning straight and square. I was also advised to drop a magnet in the oil pan but thankfully nothing left in there. I did have to reposition the lead screw drive lever because the grub screw came loose and the lever moved but easily sorted.

It is so nice to dial in 0.05mm in either direction and get a real and consistent 0.05mm movement. For the first time I was able to rough turn the OD from 128mm to 120mm and not bother measuring after every cut and then do a size and finish cut to get them both at 118.00mm (cold). Loving it. Made lots of aluminium swarf cocktail. Turning with alcohol coolant gives a very nice finish.

Aiming for -3.5 to -4.0deg camber on the front and -3.0 to -3.4deg on the rear. Sounds extreme but this is a dedicated track car. Dropped the height about 10mm too with hopefully enough compliance for the bumps on the tracks. Next sprint will see how things are going.

Towbar is now off and my mate is making up a diffuser... For those 300kph tracks we will be running on...
 
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hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
Spacers fitted to the lower arms to give just over -3deg camber at the rear.
It's a torsion beam rear end - whatcha talking about?

BTW. Nice torsion beam stiffener too (aka sway bar that really isn't, I had one of those, worked awesome).
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
It's a torsion beam rear end - whatcha talking about?

BTW. Nice torsion beam stiffener too (aka sway bar that really isn't, I had one of those, worked awesome).
You know what I mean, the rear hubs bolt onto the arms and the camber can be changed by pretty much screwing with the factory mounting.

Without getting morbid I am pretty sure I have posted pics of this Mustang at sprints and GEAR days.





I got to know the owner/driver at the races and later when work was being done on the car (motor spat a rod out of the block). Hell of a nice bloke who turned that into the best handling Mustang I have seen, seriously quick with about 650hp in race trim. Not much left stock and the suspension certainly wasn't from Ford! New motor was detuned for the road, just 560hp. Sadly he lost his battle with leukaemia this month. RIP.
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Finished tops and struts.



Measuring the stock strut tops was interesting. Two pieces, three pressed bolts and 5 different dimensions! And nothing came close to a simple metric or imperial value. I ended up going for an average which set the PCD as 96.5. No idea what it really is. The bolts are M8 and the towers have 10mm holes so it isn't that critical obviously. Both factory strut tops fitted into the new plates before I pressed in the studs.



This much offset will mean cutting the tower hole larger. So I will weld a piece of strap in the existing hole and then mark an offset hole and use a holesaw to cut a new hole then file the two holes into a slot as per the strut tops.



Strut tops are opposite hand, not that it really made any difference.

It was nice dialling in the tops on the rotary table. Since they were freshly machined I could get them pretty much perfect and then use the table to spin the plates 120deg to make the holes. I might have to bolt the mill down to the concrete, there is a slight vibration when end milling.

I was surprised how much anodising has changed the machined surfaces. Again not enough to worry installation but when you are setting up the thickness of the anodising shows up on the dial gauge.

I was going to machine the QCTP bolt but the wind is even worse this afternoon and I got an attack of the lazies.
 
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