Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

[link1896]

If doing the rear main seal, you want a seal puller.

Lisle seal puller > self tappers into old seal > biggest Stanley screw driver.



Stirk, I’ll send you mine.

How many km on this engine? Crank might have a decent wear groove in it. Timken Redi-sleeve to the rescue if so.

 

[hifiandmtb]

Had to Google it:

 

[stirk]

Yeah, they're generally pretty good. The last clutch I fitted, I had a clutch kit made up but it used the pressure plate from a later model hilux as it has more clamping pressure. Don't fit an aftermarket rear main in there, for some reason the genuine seals seem to last a lot longer.

Hey mate, agree with the genuine seal comment, there are some parts I get from Toyota directly, more expensive but I figure I can trust it so have no worries. Have ordered seal and gasket.

 

[stirk]

If doing the rear main seal, you want a seal puller.

Lisle seal puller > self tappers into old seal > biggest Stanley screw driver.



Stirk, I’ll send you mine.

How many km on this engine? Crank might have a decent wear groove in it. Timken Redi-sleeve to the rescue if so.

That's a cool little jig and could be useful for all kinds of jobs, will invest in one myself!

The engine is just getting bedded in, 461,000km

 

[binner]

Had to Google it:

I love JEGS!!!!

 

[Haakon]

The Wankel is headed back into production in a Mazda

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/...a-mx-30-concept-revealed-early-japanese-media

 

[stirk]

Someone routed the exhaust under the tranny so it's gotta be moved to pull the box out which will probably require oxy. Rear seal of tranny is leaking too so another job for later.

So do I cut to keep the rear section of the exhaust which has a little life left or replace the whole thing after this clutch is done. Where the exhaust comes out of the header it does a 90° turn and is quite squished into an oval which looks restrictive so perhaps a full replacement is justified. I love hate new options born from challenges!

 

[Haakon]

Someone routed the exhaust under the tranny so it's gotta be moved to pull the box out which will probably require oxy. Rear seal of tranny is leaking too so another job for later.

So do I cut to keep the rear section of the exhaust which has a little life left or replace the whole thing after this clutch is done. Where the exhaust comes out of the header it does a 90° turn and is quite squished into an oval which looks restrictive so perhaps a full replacement is justified. I love hate new options born from challenges!

View attachment 356796

Its a turbo diesel? Would probably like less restriction. But the easy option is cut out a section with an angle grinder or hacksaw and have some sleeves put in the section you removed...

Those cheap exhaust shop bends always made me wonder.... Have had a lot of custom exhausts made up like this back in the day for old euro stuff where off the shelf wasn't the option it is now - and there is a great deal of variation in the quality of pipes and bends you get!

 

[Flow-Rider]

Someone routed the exhaust under the tranny so it's gotta be moved to pull the box out which will probably require oxy. Rear seal of tranny is leaking too so another job for later.

So do I cut to keep the rear section of the exhaust which has a little life left or replace the whole thing after this clutch is done. Where the exhaust comes out of the header it does a 90° turn and is quite squished into an oval which looks restrictive so perhaps a full replacement is justified. I love hate new options born from challenges!

View attachment 356796

You might be able to unhook the exhaust from the mounts and unbolt it from the manifold and slide it all back enough to get box the out.

I've made the exhaust people put 2 bolt up flanges so that I can remove that whole s bend, the exhaust bends like that so that it doesn't heat the fuel tank up and you don't have any hang ups on rocks. It should also have a flexible bellow pipe in the middle as the old diesels tend to crack the exhaust from all the vibrations.

If you're doing it on the ground without a proper transmission jack you'll need two trolley jacks, one under the middle of the gear box and one under the transfer case because they don't balance too well and want to roll over.

 

[stirk]

@Haakon she's not a tubo yet and factory output new is reported to be 55 mighty kw! The exhaust squish is not likely impacting performance much but when you have 55kw pushing 1.7T any extra is welcome!

I've thought of doing a straight cut and patch but then have fix the repair, or leave it straight through with no muffler

@Flow-Rider removing the manifold seems the easiest option, there is no way I can remove the pipe from the manifold, no access with my tools particularly the rear flange bolt, how the heck does a mechanic get at that?

 

[Flow-Rider]

@Haakon she's not a tubo yet and factory output new is reported to be 55 mighty kw! The exhaust squish is not likely impacting performance much but when you have 55kw pushing 1.7T any extra is welcome!

I've thought of doing a straight cut and patch but then have fix the repair, or leave it straight through with no muffler

@Flow-Rider removing the manifold seems the easiest option, there is no way I can remove the pipe from the manifold, no access with my tools particularly the rear flange bolt, how the heck does a mechanic get at that?

Those original toyota exhaust locknuts are a @#N$ unless someone has re-fitted brass ones, they're so rusted on there, that usually you need to heat them up with an oxy to cherry red but sometimes you can get them off with a 1/2" extension and breaker bar. Probably easier for you to cut it and take it to the exhaust shop to get it repaired again.

 

[stirk]

Those original toyota exhaust locknuts are a @#N$ unless someone has re-fitted brass ones, they're so rusted on there, that usually you need to heat them up with an oxy to cherry red but sometimes you can get them off with a 1/2 extension and breaker bar. Probably easier for you to cut it and take it to the exhaust shop to get it repaired again.

It's like they never thought the exhaust would need replacing...... easily!

Technician: "how do we stop the hot exhaust system from vibrating apart?"

Metallurgist: "mild steel for all components should result in a solid join after a dash of rain"

 

[stirk]

Chunt of a job doing a clutch on the floor but I got to this stage after 4.5 hours. Some bolts took 30 minutes each of frikin about disassembling other parts to get leverage.

 

[link1896]

And there is room under a 4x4. Wanna do a low car next?

 

[Flow-Rider]

Chunt of a job doing a clutch on the floor but I got to this stage after 4.5 hours. Some bolts took 30 minutes each of frikin about disassembling other parts to get leverage.

I usually drop the top radiator hose off and remove the fan and let the back of the engine come down then get a rattle gun in there, sometimes the bolts are so tight that you need to get in there with a breaker bar.

 

[stirk]

And there is room under a 4x4. Wanna do a low car next?

Jack stands!

 

[stirk]

I usually drop the top radiator hose off and remove the fan and let the back of the engine come down then get a rattle gun in there, sometimes the bolts are so tight that you need to get in there with a breaker bar.

I did have it dropped to access the top bolts, they were the pricks to get out

Now I've one flywheel bolt the breaker just can't get so I've gotta find a huge rattle gun. Stuck for the time being.

 

[Haakon]

I did have it dropped to access the top bolts, they were the pricks to get out

Now I've one flywheel bolt the breaker just can't get so I've gotta find a huge rattle gun. Stuck for the time being.

Cut the head off? Sounds like they might want to be renewed anyway if they’re being that recalcitrant

 

[stirk]

Cut the head off? Sounds like they might want to be renewed anyway if they’re being that recalcitrant

Cutting flywheel bolt head means the rest is still stuck in there, best leave head of bolt on until I snap it off!

A mate dismantles cars all the time and I think he'll have a rattle gun that'll do the job, I'll find out in an hour.

My suspicions about the noise is correct, Release bearing is seized and the face of it that contacts the clutch spins making the screeching sound.

New clutch plate friction material is 6mm bigger on the ID and old plate uses 3 Springs and 3 rubber dampener versus 4 thicker springs and no rubber. Will be interested to see how it feels in comparison.

Heres some clutch porn.

 

[Flow-Rider]

I did have it dropped to access the top bolts, they were the pricks to get out

Now I've one flywheel bolt the breaker just can't get so I've gotta find a huge rattle gun. Stuck for the time being.

Give it a few hard whacks with the flat part of the hammer or even heat it up if you can but don't heat it up until it's red if you're going to reuse it.