Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

[Haakon]

I have never heard of this 'dimpling' of which is being spoken of so can only assume it is some next level hillbilly shit that even a country boy like myself has not heard of.

Like @Dales says, consult the loctite bearing retaining guide and find the right compound that will work with the gap you have.

It is a bit hillbilly... Poor man's knurling, which even done properly on a lathe is still a bit of a hack.

Loctite 680 seems to be the one to use - strongest, does the biggest gaps, is the most heat resistant and is stronger without the use of primer.

$75 for a 50ml bottle!! Or - $5 for a 5ml squirt sachet from someone on eBay with a bunch of Santa Cruz stuff. I guess they must have extra big problems with bottom brackets

It will absolutely suck big hairy balls having to pull the drivetrain out again if it fails. But it wont kill me, risking an extra few hours of work to most likely have it last long enough and not spend $500 now on what's supposed to be a cheap runaround I think is a bearable punt.

Its a pretty big 40x12mm sealed bearing, so a decent amount of surface area for the loctite to do its thing. Not like the tiny little fragile needle rollers on some cars.

 

[rextheute]

Do it properly , Do it once .
It is already apart , unless you a dead flat busted arse broke - spend the bucks
it will fuck up at an inopportune moment .

 

[hifiandmtb]

@Haakon now has every answer.

Perhaps we now need to vote?

 

[Haakon]

Do it properly , Do it once .
It is already apart , unless you a dead flat busted arse broke - spend the bucks
it will fuck up at an inopportune moment .

I hear you, but I'm going to have a go with the loctite and see how it goes. It's due a timing belt in 2 years, if its not failed by then it probably wont.

If im going to spend $4-500 on an engine, I'll get a Sport one and spend another grand and supercharge it

 

[Dales Cannon]

It will never work long term no matter what loctite you use, it isn't designed to replace steel. I've installed automotive gears boxes on a commercial level for over 35 years. Shortcuts always have their consequences on cars.

It is French, long term is some time next january.

 

[Haakon]

It is French, long term is some time next january.

French engines are bloody indestructible. Its other things that apart around the nicely purring engines....

 

[Haakon]

These are designed to replace worn shaft surfaces where oil seals run, but might be another option...

https://www.skf.com/au/products/ind...smission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve

 

[Dales Cannon]

Have you measure the hole properly? That is a no. If the new bearing flops around like an untrained seal you will have issues keeping the bearing in the right place. If it is just what you described where a pretty uniform amount of material was removed by over zealous fingering then a shim could work.

If the input shaft is out of line even two south african bees dicks the vibration in the drivetrain will be intolerable. I doubt you have done anything other than increase the clearance so it feels wobbly. Apply the correct loctite all the way around the bearing and put it back together. Be prepared to sell it or pull it apart again if it is rooted.

 

[hifiandmtb]

Who'd buy it?

 

[Haakon]

Who'd buy it?

they say there is one born every minute

The shim thing might be a thing to try without taking the engine out if the loctite fails. But I don’t think I have that much slop in it at present.

 

[link1896]

Argh fuck you’re in the hole with this mess


I’ve used many a speedy sleeve on shafts, not on housings. But can’t see why not.


You can turn bearings down in a lathe with carbide tipped bits. Mandrel with shields for the bearing so swarf doesn’t get in wouldn’t be too hard.

Speedy sleeve and a modified bearing to get its OD to mate just nicely with the speedy sleeve. Or rolled sheet as a packer.

So you need a 2 grand lathe, 300 of tooling, 500 for a metal roller



And yes, pin punching all around the hole to pean it closed to retain the bearing is dodgy. Very hard to get right.

 

[Haakon]

Now I’m just amusing myself edumacating myself on assorted engineering tricks Metal spraying is a fun sounding one, like what the Retropower guys use to zinc plate the underside of their shells.

 

[Flow-Rider]

You could get @link1896 to measure the bore with micrometers and machine a housing to suit a needle roller, that's what most of the older 6&8 cylinder fords have. You should measure the hole in case you got a crap bearing.

 

[Haakon]

You could get @link1896 to measure the bore with micrometers and machine a housing to suit a needle roller, that's what most of the older 6&8 cylinder fords have. You should measure the hole in case you got a crap bearing.


View attachment 370607View attachment 370608

Every time I’ve seen one of those types of bearing they’ve been a dried out rough mess... Last one was on the Duratec in FILs Mazda 3 I did a clutch on. Sealed bearing is certainly preferable.

Another option is just go old school and have a bronze plain bush made. Or use a 35x17 mm bearing and have a 2.5 + whatever mm think sleeve made.

I think it’ll be ok with the loctite, it’s not sloppy in the bore, no play - just not interference. There is bugger all clearance to deal with.
I’m not punching craters in it, literally lightly tapping to just mark it and it’s feeling just a little rough on the finger - and that’s already enough to make it tight.

 

[SummitFever]

If you made the bore oversize through over zealous application of emery paper it will no longer be round. It will be oval and also tapered.

Your new bearing may also be undersized.

Also, some bearings are made in different sizes (eg. 0.01mm, 0.02mm oversize etc) to achieve the perfect amount of interference fit. Talk to a bearing place and see if a fractional oversize is available.

 

[Flow-Rider]

Every time I’ve seen one of those types of bearing they’ve been a dried out rough mess... Last one was on the Duratec in FILs Mazda 3 I did a clutch on. Sealed bearing is certainly preferable.

Another option is just go old school and have a bronze plain bush made. Or use a 35x17 mm bearing and have a 2.5 + whatever mm think sleeve made.

I think it’ll be ok with the loctite, it’s not sloppy in the bore, no play - just not interference. There is bugger all clearance to deal with.
I’m not punching craters in it, literally lightly tapping to just mark it and it’s feeling just a little rough on the finger - and that’s already enough to make it tight.

They use sinted bronze for spigot bushes, a bar of that stuff will not be cheap.

 

[Haakon]

If you made the bore oversize through over zealous application of emery paper it will no longer be round. It will be oval and also tapered.

Your new bearing may also be undersized.

Also, some bearings are made in different sizes (eg. 0.01mm, 0.02mm oversize etc) to achieve the perfect amount of interference fit. Talk to a bearing place and see if a fractional oversize is available.

I took the bearing to the bearing shop and had them check it, and it’s also identical to the one that came out of the other crank. And I asked if slightly over size bearings are a thing and they said no.

 

[Haakon]

There are fun to watch. But stay to the end for the sounds of a straight 8. Yum.

 

[Haakon]

 

[hifiandmtb]

Ah Rich, click that bait. What a stupid idea.