Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

[beeb]

A good friend of mine in Canberra. He has been polite enough to put up with my euro phile quirks

I think the cooling system might need some love after the shed skid...

I miss my 1600, but in all honesty I'm glad it wasn't turbo. The little NA L18 & 5 speed combo went well, and never left me worried it was going to overpower a corner (well, unless I gave it a clutch kick in 1st or 2nd!).

 

[Haakon]

I think the cooling system might need some love after the shed skid...

I miss my 1600, but in all honesty I'm glad it wasn't turbo. The little NA L18 & 5 speed combo went well, and never left me worried it was going to overpower a corner (well, unless I gave it a clutch kick in 1st or 2nd!).

It did start to overheat before the tyres blew The water you see dripping though is the water spray nozzles the Haltech kicks on above 27psi.

 

[beeb]

It did start to overheat before the tyres blew The water you see dripping though is the water spray nozzles the Haltech kicks on above 27psi.

That is a relief. If it had been straight out of the rad that would've been half-cooked at least!

 

[Haakon]

The aftermath

 

[Haakon]

Street art in Glenorchy - need any bits?

 

[Oddjob]

Street art in Glenorchy - need any bits?View attachment 394953

No one's blowing up that letter box in a trick or treat stunt.

Sent from my M2012K11AG using Tapatalk

 

[beeb]

Street art in Glenorchy - need any bits?View attachment 394953

Rope rear main seal. Eww.

 

[Cardy George]

Street art in Glenorchy - need any bits?View attachment 394953

Turbo or trimatic bolt pattern?

 

[Haakon]

Turbo or trimatic bolt pattern?

Yes…

 

[Haakon]

Had plans to get this running this weekend, but seems the container i had all the rockers in got moisture in it somehow so one one is stuffed - hardening on a roller rusted through. Whoops.

But head on and torqued down, exhaust on and cooling system all hooked up. Progress....

 

[Flow-Rider]

Yes…

It can't be both?

The aftermath
View attachment 394908

View attachment 394909

That looks like an old Qld car, did it have gudgeon pin or piston slap noises when he bought it?

 

[Haakon]

It can't be both?


That looks like an old Qld car, did it have gudgeon pin or piston slap noises when he bought it?

Not sure. I think he bought it from Adelaide about 6 years ago or something, maybe more.

 

[Cardy George]

It can't be both?

Ahhhhh, thought you'd know that?

 

[Haakon]

The Renault auto trans I rebuilt shifts incredibly well. Probably the best shifts I've felt in these things, they're notorious for hard shifts. The asterisk on it all is I had to change out the valve body and replace the main pair of solenoids that control line pressure and the converter lock up. I used the old one's stupidly as I'd been told they were not that old. So when I went to start it last week it kept bogging down and missing when put in drive.

I thought it was an engine issue long enough that I forced it past the bogging to do a quick test drive. Bad move. It was the converter lockup locked - the control solenoid was stuffed and stuck open.

And when I dropped the fluid to change the solenoid it has a very metallic sheen to it...

But, it drives perfectly and the converter lockup works on the cruise, so I've left instructions to keep changing the fluid until it stops being metallic looking and see how long it goes for!

But, fuckup aside on not joining the dots on why it was stalling quicker, it seems I successfully assembled it!

 

[Haakon]

Still worrying about that metal in the fluid… Pretty sure I’ve massively shortened its life. But I figure if it’s going to fail (ie the converter clutch packs it in or the metal in the fluid takes out a shaft bushing elsewhere in the trans) it will do so fairly quickly.

So two more fluid changes and send it. If it makes it past say 1000kms I’ll have way more confidence I dodged a bullet. Otherwise it’s coming out again for a new converter and dismantled to clean it all out…

 

[Flow-Rider]

Still worrying about that metal in the fluid… Pretty sure I’ve massively shortened its life. But I figure if it’s going to fail (ie the converter clutch packs it in or the metal in the fluid takes out a shaft bushing elsewhere in the trans) it will do so fairly quickly.

So two more fluid changes and send it. If it makes it past say 1000kms I’ll have way more confidence I dodged a bullet. Otherwise it’s coming out again for a new converter and dismantled to clean it all out…

Take it somewhere, where they do the machine flushes and then change the filter again. The problem with just dropping the pan is that you never get the oil out of the converter and valve body.

 

[Haakon]

Take it somewhere, where they do the machine flushes and then change the filter again. The problem with just dropping the pan is that you never get the oil out of the converter and valve body.

Filter not accessible - it’s internal and only can be changed with the trans case split

No way to machine flush too - only a heat exchanges, no fluid lines to tap into.
I did swap in a freshly clean valve body with the new solenoids, so that’s clean.

So all I can do is fluid changes, getting 3.5 litres out at a time of the total 6.5 in there.

 

[Oddjob]

Filter not accessible - it’s internal and only can be changed with the trans case split

No way to machine flush too - only a heat exchanges, no fluid lines to tap into.
I did swap in a freshly clean valve body with the new solenoids, so that’s clean.

So all I can do is fluid changes, getting 3.5 litres out at a time of the total 6.5 in there.

Wow that sounds like some awesome french engineering.

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[Haakon]

Wow that sounds like some awesome french engineering.

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German. It’s a VW design made by Seimans.

 

[Flow-Rider]

Filter not accessible - it’s internal and only can be changed with the trans case split

No way to machine flush too - only a heat exchanges, no fluid lines to tap into.
I did swap in a freshly clean valve body with the new solenoids, so that’s clean.

So all I can do is fluid changes, getting 3.5 litres out at a time of the total 6.5 in there.

The new oil will circulate throughout the box again and mix with the old stuff. That's the issue with people letting the auto oil go until it's brown, you need to drop the oil 2 or 3 times because as soon as you start the car and go through the gears, the old oil mixes with the new, and you have dirty brown oil again.