Proven tubeless component combinations

stirk

Burner
I stuffed up a small drop last weekend and landed hard on the front into a mound, hit rim hard, snake bit the front tube so have finally decided to go tubeless. Sick of changing tubes. There have been a couple of other tubeless related threads so..

It seems to be a unique formula when it comes to tape width. Factors at play are rim width, depth and tyre choice. Some tyres and rim combos may need a few layers of a particular type of tape while others only one of another.

Unless it's a proven formula it'll be a little bit of trial and error or luck to what's going to work really well for your particular components.

Some guides online say to take the tape into the first bottom section of the bead hook others say no.

I'll post up what works for my particular set up when I get around to doing it successfully.

But for now if you know the details of what rim, tyre and tape combo that works for you post them up.

This could be a good source of proven combos for future reference.

As an example of my still to do..

Rim: WTB SX23 - 27.5
Rim width: 23mm
Tyre: maxxis tomahawk 3C EXO TR
Tape: monkey magic
Tape width: don't know yet...
Tape layers: knowing me one to many

Template

Rim:
Rim width:
Tyre:
Tape:
Tape width:
Tape layers:

I'm not thinking to create a how to thread there is one in the stickies, more a simple clean list of what component combos work well for people.
 
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Lazmo

Old and hopeless
Tubeless is definitely the way to go...

All our FS bikes are done, and I'm just about to do my BFe.

It really helps if you've got a compressor.

And use Prepsol or equivalent to really clean the rim, before you tape it up.
 

bikeyoulongtime

Likes Dirt
my short experience of what has worked. Some others have not worked, but lets keep it relatively simple :). Since I stopped trying to run non-tubeless-ready tyres life is a lot simpler.

Rim: Stans flow
Rim width: not sure
Tyre: Specialized purgatory/captain
Tape: stans
Tape width: not sure, came installed.
Tape layers: 1
notes: easy. install tyres, install sealant, pump with a floor pump. Ghetto valves.

Rim: Stans flow EX
Rim width: 25.5mm (internal)
Tyre: Maxxis HR2 2.3, ardent race 2.3, Rubena Kratos 2.25 and 2.4
Tape: gorilla tape
Tape width: 25mm, wall to wall pretty much.
Tape layers: 2
notes: no dramas with maxxis tyres, install and pump (floor pump). Rubenas needed a little more coaxing, had to use some soapy water to help the 2.4 seal up, but got it done (just) with an epic floor pump session. Compressor would have helped! Gorilla tape is a bit messy now, after a few tyre changes - but still seals. Using one ghetto valve and one really old Mavic UST valve.

(two for the CXers)
Rim: Oval concepts 527
Rim width: 22 mm external
Tyre: Vittoria cross XG pro
Tape: Stans
Tape width: 17 mm (i'm pretty sure) - wall to wall.
Tape layers: 1
notes: drama free. install tape, install tyre, install sealant, pump with a track pump. Ghetto valved.

Rim: Oval concepts 527
Rim width: 22 mm external, 17mm internal
Tyre: Maxxis Locust CX, 35mm, wirebead.
Tape: Stans
Tape width: 17 mm, wall to wall.
Tape layers: 1
notes: needed a C02 canister to set the bead, after two days still leaking a little air. Bear in mind these are not tubeless-ready. pumped up to 70psi with no explosions yet. Ghetto valved.

Other notes: have used ghetto valves a lot (just chop an old valve out of a tube), but they don't seal up as well as non-ghetto valves.
 
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creaky

XMAS Plumper
I've never had a tyre and rim combo not work tubeless but:

1. I have always used a compressor; and
2. Have always had UST or 'tubeless ready' type rims.

Most rims these days, aside from low end ones, are designed to work ok tubeless.
 

Lazmo

Old and hopeless
Another sneaky trick, if you’re using brand new folding tyres… grab a tube and put it inside the new tyre and pump up the crap out of the tube, and leave it overnight… it will make the folding tyre take its round shape, forcing the bead outwards... and it will mount up more easilyerer.

BTW... I've only used Stans 1" tape and start opposite the valve and finish with about 200mm overlap.

I also use valve stems that have removable valve cores, so you can use a syringe to top up the Stans fluid every six months or so.
 
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silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
Rim: Alex Evo Supercomp
Rim width: 19mm internal
Tyre: Vrdestein Spotted Cat; Geax AKA; Geax Saguaro...all tubeless compatible
Valves: Stan's Universal
Tape: Stans
Tape width: 19mm
Tape layers: 1
Notes: Easy as...but the valve stem seal deforms easily

Rim: Alex Volar 2.3
Rim width: 23mm internal
Tyre: Schwalbe Thunder Bart
Valves: E Thirteen
Tape: Gorilla
Tape width: approx 25 mm
Tape layers: 1
Notes: Easy as...the E-13 valve system is fiddlier than Stan's to set up but a winner in every other way

Rim: Sun Ringle Equaliser 23 (not tubeless compatible)
Rim width: 19mm internal
Tyre: Vrdestein Spotted Cat; Geax AKA; Geax Saguaro...all tubeless compatible
Valves: Stan's Universal
Tape: Nitto electrical tape
Tape width: 19mm
Tape layers: 2...one each
Notes: Easy as...but the valve stem seal deforms easily; non-tubeless rim is prone to burping at low pressures

Here's the E13 valves...

Bets thing about them is they work finger tight so you can undo them with your fingers if you need to fit a tube on the trail. The other good thing is that they rely on O-rings rather than great lumps of rubber to form the seal so they don't deform in the rim's valve hole.
 

Lazmo

Old and hopeless
Hey Stirling,

I tubelessed my BFe tonight, well almost… as I didn’t have quite enough tape for the rear.

But I did swap the tubed Minion on the front for a brand new tubeless ready Ardent, which I got out of folding shape with a pumped up inner tube inside it for a few hours, then did the prepsol cleaning thing on the DTSwiss FR600 rim, and fitted one rotation of 25mm wide Stans tape with about a 200mm overlap and popped in a Stan’s removable core valve. BTW, having a trueing stand makes it super easy to do the cleaning and taping. Then mount the tyre, chuck in two and half thingos of Stans fluid… hit it with the compressor and BANG, up she goes… perfect. Can’t wait to try it.

But I do have to wait, as my Stan’s tape ran out halfway through the rear install… bugger. Anyway, never mind, as I’m keen to try either the Gorilla tape or the Norton PVC Outdoor masking tape mentioned here before… so I foresee a trip to Bunnings on the way home from work tomorrow.
 

aanon

Likes Dirt
I have been using Bontrager rim strips instead of tape and I will never go back to tape, Check 'em out if you have not done so already.
I know other companies do rim strips too but the Bontrager ones are the biz.
 

Lazmo

Old and hopeless
Ok, I hit up Bunnings tonight after work for some Bear/Norton PVC Outdoor long life masking tape as recommended by burner DJR… it’s cheap as… $4.50 for 50 metres. Anyway, it went on super easy, but I did do two rotations as it is not as wide as Stan’s at 24mm wide, and not as thick… so the first rotation went to the left and the second rotation went to the right. The tyre mounted up no sweat.

The other thing with the Bear/Norton tape, was that I also solved a creaking fork problem with it and some Prepsol… but that’s for another existing thread. Fingers crossed it stays solved.

Phark I love tubeless. I have tubeless on enough bikes to know that it really makes a difference, but this is my first hardtail with tubeless… and having reasonably high volume tyres (mine are Ardents) that are tubeless means you can drop the pressures significantly and the bike is a LOT nicer to ride. Handling, grip, terrain absorption and comfort are all much better. Took it to my local trails and smiled to myself knowingly the entire ride.
 

the drizzle

Likes Bikes and Dirt
This was my first attempt at a tubeless conversion. It took me couple of goes to get it to seal up completely however once i added a second layer of tape it was all good.

Used rubena sealant and valves that i purchased from eBay.

Rim: DT Swiss XM1501 Spline One
Rim width: 25mm internal width
Tyre: Maxxxis Minion DHF 27.5 x 2.30 3C EXO TR (front) Maxxis High Roller 2 27.5 x 2.30 3C EXO TR (rear)
Tape: Gorilla tape
Tape width: 25mm
Tape layers: 2 layers
 

Bodin

GMBC
I have been using Bontrager rim strips instead of tape and I will never go back to tape, Check 'em out if you have not done so already.
I know other companies do rim strips too but the Bontrager ones are the biz.
+1, Bontrager rim strips are the duck's nuts.

Failing that, my other trick is to grab a tube that's 1 size too small for the wheel, open it up right down the middle and cut it to the perfect width. Hey presto - a perfectly good rim strip. As long as it goes right up to the edge of the bead hooks in the rims, you get a perfect seal with the tyre and the fact that it's a size too small for the rim stretches it to a nice, snug fit with the rim without stretching it to the point of failure.

You still need to tape the spoke holes to stop them (and of course you still need sealant), but I've never had a failure with this system. It's just a bit painstaking cutting the tube to the perfect width. Takes some time, but saves you having to muck about with anything else. The other benefit is that, without the sealant coming in to contact with the tape, you don't have to worry about anything getting unstuck over time...

Also +1 on the soapy water for seating the beads before inflation - I can get all my tubeless systems inflated without an air compressor.
 
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