replace dt swiss rim

spikenet

Likes Dirt
I've got a m1700 spline wheelset that came with my bike. The rear rim has failed so I'm wondering if something like ex511 or ex471 rim would be a straight swap?
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
I've got a m1700 spline wheelset that came with my bike. The rear rim has failed so I'm wondering if something like ex511 or ex471 rim would be a straight swap?
Go to the DT website and look for the ERD of the rims (Effective Rim Diameter) if its the same, it will just be straight swap using the same spokes. Tape the new rim to the old one and swap the spokes over one at a time.
 

tkdbboy

Likes Dirt
Pretty much most modern DTs will have the same ERD in your size.

Standard nipples on those are cheese. I recommend swapping to fresh nips like brass ones.
If you want to match your rear with front then the sleeved E532 or FR570 are good options (pending your wheel size and spoke count).
Can't really go wrong with EX511 either
 

Nambra

Definitely should have gone to specsavers
M1700 series use the Mxxx rims with eyelets. What’s the ID of your current rim? You should be able to get the same rim to replace it with eg. M512. If you want to go tougher the EX series will be better, as long as the ERD is the same.

Google DT Swiss Tech Book 2019 or similar, you’ll find all the information you need including left and right spoke lengths etc.

Edit: EX series come with silver aluminium Squorx nipples and PHR washers.
 

spikenet

Likes Dirt
awesome, I'll check it out. I'd like tougher rim, tho the M512 has been pretty good all things considered.

I've never needed to do a wheel before but figure I'd have a go on this one
 

Nambra

Definitely should have gone to specsavers
awesome, I'll check it out. I'd like tougher rim, tho the M512 has been pretty good all things considered.

I've never needed to do a wheel before but figure I'd have a go on this one
It will be straightpull spokes on a 350 hub - no big deal. There’s a good wheelbuilding thread here somewhere and if you keep the same spokes there’s ozzy’s method. I’d recommend using pliers with a piece of rubber between the jaws to hold the spokes as you tension them - straightpull spokes will spin. The DT Swiss Squorx tool helps speed things up too.

DT Swiss vid that might give you some pointers too:
 

spikenet

Likes Dirt
Got my wheel rebuilt. I opted for new spokes and ex511 rim. Pretty happy with how it went, with the squorx tool it seemed pretty easy!

Not sure if I should try to get it tighter, its currently saying 105kgf and feels pretty tight to me compared to my other similar m1700 rear wheel.
 

Attachments

creaky

XMAS Plumper
That’s an amazing wheel tension chart ! Is it true and round? If so, I’d ride it a bit at those tensions, then tighten up a tad when you check it over.
 

spikenet

Likes Dirt
That’s an amazing wheel tension chart ! Is it true and round? If so, I’d ride it a bit at those tensions, then tighten up a tad when you check it over.
It looked like a spiders web for some time... I persisted.. got it true as I can be bothered with.
Will do what you suggest and ride it then re tighten. Keen to see what its like compared to the old m1700 rim
Just gotta visit bunnings for some rim tape.. Norton Bear 25mm should do the job.
 

Nambra

Definitely should have gone to specsavers
Nice job @spikenet, the EX511 is a solid rim. It should take up to 120kg of tension but 105kg is probably fine unless you’re a super heavy dude! I like your through axle adapter for your truing stand too - great idea.
 

spikenet

Likes Dirt
ok, so turns out I've made a rookie mistake!

I dished the wheel so either side of the hub is equal 142x12 hub. Turns out this puts the rim too close to the stays in my frame on the non-drive side. So I just followed the "Musson" book that says to do this. My factory built M1700 wheel also has asymetric distance. Time to go back and start again!
 

creaky

XMAS Plumper
ok, so turns out I've made a rookie mistake!

I dished the wheel so either side of the hub is equal 142x12 hub. Turns out this puts the rim too close to the stays in my frame on the non-drive side. So I just followed the "Musson" book that says to do this. My factory built M1700 wheel also has asymetric distance. Time to go back and start again!
Hold up. The rim should be central between the end caps, unless you have some funky offset frame?
 

Nambra

Definitely should have gone to specsavers
Adding a dish offset should be easy - use a spoke key if you’ve already taped up the rim. Alternating half turns to loosen and tighten spokes around the wheel as needed to add the offset. Repeat as many times around the rim to get the offset you need. It shouldn’t affect true too much, but you’ll probably want to tweak it afterwards.

It must be that the frame has offset dropouts that need an asymmetric wheel. What bike brand is it - Specialized perhaps?
 

spikenet

Likes Dirt
I dont really understand the specification. This wheel I checked with the dish tool is a bog standard (brought from CRC) dt swiss rear wheel. It is clearly not dished in the centre of the end caps, or my understanding of end caps is just wrong.

I ended up sorting out my wheel, I was a bit over it so its not as spot on as it originally was :)
 

Attachments

creaky

XMAS Plumper
I dont really understand the specification. This wheel I checked with the dish tool is a bog standard (brought from CRC) dt swiss rear wheel. It is clearly not dished in the centre of the end caps, or my understanding of end caps is just wrong.

I ended up sorting out my wheel, I was a bit over it so its not as spot on as it originally was :)
Mate, you’ve only got the NDS end cap on!

Put the cassette body and the DS end cap on then dish.
 
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