Reverb dropper post - Pivot Mach 5.7C

frozenhole

Likes Dirt
Hey guys,

So I'm running a Medium Pivot Mach 5.7C and it's time to add a dropper post to my steed. I'm 175cm so not tall at all and after measuring how deep the seatpost tube goes and how far my seat sits above the collar I'm still unsure of what overall length I should go for? It looks like a 380mm miiiight just be right but am I better off playing it safe and going with the 355mm?

Are there any members on here running a Reverb on their Pivots? If so what overall length option did you decide on and how tall are you?

Cheers!
 

JTmofo

XC Enthusiast
Hey guys,

So I'm running a Medium Pivot Mach 5.7C and it's time to add a dropper post to my steed. I'm 175cm so not tall at all and after measuring how deep the seatpost tube goes and how far my seat sits above the collar I'm still unsure of what overall length I should go for? It looks like a 380mm miiiight just be right but am I better off playing it safe and going with the 355mm?

Are there any members on here running a Reverb on their Pivots? If so what overall length option did you decide on and how tall are you?

Cheers!
Hey mate,

Regardless of what other people are running, i would double check that the post measurements will suit you. Some people have longer legs, use different length crank arms etc and this all has a bearing on the post length.

There are a few measurements you need to take into account.
1. Measure the amount of seat post (to the saddle rails) that is currently exposed on your existing seat post. ( G in the diagram)
2. Measure the clearance you have between the top of your seat post collar and the down the seat tube before an obstruction ie. a bend. a suspension pivot. shock mount. ( E in the Diagram)
3. Ensure that you allow the minimum insertion length for a given post = > dimension F. ( usually not a problem for shorter riders but is for taller riders on bigger frames)

These dimensions will determine the overall length you need. This will in turn, indicate the drop allowable.
I am shorter than you (173cm) and run a 380mm x 125mm drop reverb on my bike.

Remember, if you want to run an internal routed post, you need to allow for any additional length for the actuation mech at the bottom of the post. Check manufacturers sizing charts.
 

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frozenhole

Likes Dirt
Hey mate,

Regardless of what other people are running, i would double check that the post measurements will suit you. Some people have longer legs, use different length crank arms etc and this all has a bearing on the post length.

There are a few measurements you need to take into account.
1. Measure the amount of seat post (to the saddle rails) that is currently exposed on your existing seat post. ( G in the diagram)
2. Measure the clearance you have between the top of your seat post collar and the down the seat tube before an obstruction ie. a bend. a suspension pivot. shock mount. ( E in the Diagram)
3. Ensure that you allow the minimum insertion length for a given post = > dimension F. ( usually not a problem for shorter riders but is for taller riders on bigger frames)

These dimensions will determine the overall length you need. This will in turn, indicate the drop allowable.
I am shorter than you (173cm) and run a 380mm x 125mm drop reverb on my bike.

Remember, if you want to run an internal routed post, you need to allow for any additional length for the actuation mech at the bottom of the post. Check manufacturers sizing charts.
Cheers for the quick reply.

I've taken a some measurements and it's approximately 16.5cm for measurement G. As for the distance between the top of the collar down the seat tube I can get about 20cm. This is a total of ~36.5cm so A 355mm would be the safe option as it would sit a bit higher than my collar and a 380mm might be just a little too tall?

Won't be running internal cable as my frame isn't compatible.
 

JTmofo

XC Enthusiast
Cheers for the quick reply.

I've taken a some measurements and it's approximately 16.5cm for measurement G. As for the distance between the top of the collar down the seat tube I can get about 20cm. This is a total of ~36.5cm so A 355mm would be the safe option as it would sit a bit higher than my collar and a 380mm might be just a little too tall?

Won't be running internal cable as my frame isn't compatible.
With your dimensions a 100mm drop Reverb should be right.

Have you decided on a Reverb or are you open to suggestions?
Mine would be to go for a Lev, no pricking around with bleeding the hydraulic lines and lever and a fixed actuation point means that the cable isnt moving up and down as you actuate the post. (important on a nice carbon frame!)
 

frozenhole

Likes Dirt
With your dimensions a 100mm drop Reverb should be right.

Have you decided on a Reverb or are you open to suggestions?
Mine would be to go for a Lev, no pricking around with bleeding the hydraulic lines and lever and a fixed actuation point means that the cable isnt moving up and down as you actuate the post. (important on a nice carbon frame!)
Reverb was due to price more than anything else. Will do a bit of investigating, thanks for your help mate!
 

slippy

Likes Bikes and Dirt
The general rule, cut and pasted from the Turner Bikes website:

"To choose the correct Drop, measure from the center of saddle rail down to the top of the seat collar on the frame with the post height at the normal climbing height, then subtract 50mm. This is the most amount of 'Drop' you can have and still run your saddle at a proper pedaling height."

I find the 50mm recommendation a bit conservative. 9 times out of 10 you could get away with 40mm but if you change saddles to something with a funky amount of height you might get in trouble.
 

Rhys_

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I'm slightly taller than you and on a medium 5.7C. I'm comfortably running a 125mm travel KS Lev.

That doesn't really matter though because everyone's dimensions are different. Just take some careful measurements and trust them
 

Mitto68

Likes Bikes
With your dimensions a 100mm drop Reverb should be right.

Have you decided on a Reverb or are you open to suggestions?
Mine would be to go for a Lev, no pricking around with bleeding the hydraulic lines and lever and a fixed actuation point means that the cable isnt moving up and down as you actuate the post. (important on a nice carbon frame!)
I agree, I have a KS Lev on my Mach 5.7 and can't fault it.
 
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