Road Tubeless worth it?

Cúl-Báire

Likes Bikes and Dirt
So I was just riding along on the road bike this morning and I hear Psssssssh, it was dark so I could have run over something who knows; no biggie change the tube and off we go again... About 10 minutes later during an interval I clobber a pot hole and Pssssssssh again!!! (How I hit it I have no idea as the pot holes around Lara are the size of small cars so pretty easy to spot).

This got me thinking as I am in the process of accumulating stuff for a new road bike, does anyone have experience with Road Tubeless, and if so do you think it is a worthy investment?

I do a fair bit of road riding on fair crap roads, not fussed about weight and fucking hate changing tubes!!! (I was an early adopter of Tubeless on the MTB) :crazy:
 

steve24

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I plan to convert as soon as I find a set of Schwalbes at a good price.

Also had 2 flats in a day (plus 3 in MTB the same week).
 

scblack

Leucocholic
There was a thread on here - could have been 12-18months ago. The general consensus was tubeless was not worth the hassle for roadies.

If you're not worried about weight, get some Maxxis Re-Fuse (or other similar heavy duty tyre) and a tyre liner plus latex tube. That should help reduce flats.
 

nickz

Likes Dirt
Continental gator hardshell are the only tyres I use and I have had no flats in 4 years. Just a thought.
 

Fifteen.Hundred

Likes Dirt
As others have suggested, more robust tyres & tubes.

Another measure i have taken is to remove the valve core on my inner tube and put some stans in. Not sure what the general feeling towards this is but it seems to be working for me with Conti GP4000s & lightweight tubes.
 

0psi

Eats Squid
Yup not worth the trouble. I've never liked the idea of tubeless on a road bike mainly because of the pressures involved. At least with a tube you've got the tube pressing the tyre against the bead so I feel it's a bit more secure.

However a friend of mine experimented with tubeless and quickly abandoned it after his first puncture. Liquid latex works well at the low pressures we use on mountain bikes but it won't seal at 100psi and apparently makes one hell of a mess when you do puncture.
So for one you'll still have to stop to reinflate your tyre.
Two- if it's a larger cut you'll have a wait a bit for the sealant to dry otherwise it will just go pop again when you try to inflate it.
Three- you end up with sealant all over, well, everything actually.
Four- if the cut is any bigger than a hummingbirds anus you'll have to put a tube in it anyway and good luck getting to work on time when you are struggling with a tight ust rim/tubeless tyre combo.
And on the fifth day of Christmas my good friend said to me, phug this I'm going back to tubes.

Conti Gatorskins with thickish (CST or Big W) tubes. I hear Schwalbe toobs are also quite good. If you want a super bomber set up add some Mr Tuffys tyre liners to that. Just be sure to inspect your tyres frequently as I've heard of people destroying fairly new tyres because they were embedded with shrapnel but they didn't think to look because they didn't get a flat.
 

RB 24

Likes Dirt
Yup not worth the trouble. I've never liked the idea of tubeless on a road bike mainly because of the pressures involved. At least with a tube you've got the tube pressing the tyre against the bead so I feel it's a bit more secure.

However a friend of mine experimented with tubeless and quickly abandoned it after his first puncture. Liquid latex works well at the low pressures we use on mountain bikes but it won't seal at 100psi and apparently makes one hell of a mess when you do puncture.
So for one you'll still have to stop to reinflate your tyre.
Two- if it's a larger cut you'll have a wait a bit for the sealant to dry otherwise it will just go pop again when you try to inflate it.
Three- you end up with sealant all over, well, everything actually.
Four- if the cut is any bigger than a hummingbirds anus you'll have to put a tube in it anyway and good luck getting to work on time when you are struggling with a tight ust rim/tubeless tyre combo.
And on the fifth day of Christmas my good friend said to me, phug this I'm going back to tubes.

Conti Gatorskins with thickish (CST or Big W) tubes. I hear Schwalbe toobs are also quite good. If you want a super bomber set up add some Mr Tuffys tyre liners to that. Just be sure to inspect your tyres frequently as I've heard of people destroying fairly new tyres because they were embedded with shrapnel but they didn't think to look because they didn't get a flat.
can attest to #3. In a bunch ride and someone (probably a triathlete that snuck in) had their tire blow a pooper valve and sealant was over everyone like a dodgy porno.

Ain't worth the trouble.
 

pistonbroke

Eats Squid
What tyres are you running?
I had conti ultra sport front and rear. I seemed to get a flat about half the time as smashing bottles seems to be the local sport around here.
I put on some conti Gatorskins and haven't had another flat.

I would only consider tubeless for the roadie with proper tubeless rims and tyres. No half assed ghetto set ups thanks.
 

Cúl-Báire

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Running Michelin Lithion 2 tires, they have been pretty good but today!... Bad luck I guess :tsk:

As I said I am accumulating stuff for the new build so UST could be on the cards.
 

casnell

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I've found it really good on the roadie. You can run Fusions at 90psi very nicely, great grip and road feel, and zero punctures in 3 years. Can't see the problem with it??
 

casnell

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I would only consider tubeless for the roadie with proper tubeless rims and tyres. No half assed ghetto set ups thanks.
I'm using Racing Zeros ( not the two-way fit) and they had a very small hole drilled in them that needed sealing first, and Hutchi Fusions. Worked straight out of the box.
 

crank1979

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I've been running road tubeless for a while and it is a near perfect solution for my punctures. There was a lot of thinking behind going to road tubeless for me.

I'd just moved house and my commute was now a long stretch of the Hume Hwy on my only road bike at the time, 3 days a week. Two rides in and I had destroyed a pair of Conti GP4000S tyres. Obviously they weren't the best tyres for the job. I put on some Maxxis Re-Fuses and got the punctures down to about one a week running 130psi. Anything lower and punctures became more frequent. Sometimes two in a day, but always at least one a week. The ride wasn't as nice now either. In went some tyre liners. Punctures were now down to about one a fortnight-month. Feel on the road was terrible. Tubes were harder to replace with the liners in and the truck belt tyre wire that was causing the punctures was harder to remove as well. Tweezers had become a mandatory part of my ride toolkit.

Then I went road tubeless with 6700 Ultegra wheels and Hutchinson Fusion 3 tyres. Road feel was back at the Conti level but I was still averaging about 1 puncture per month. The problem now was that the punctures caused by the wire were sealed well enough to finish the ride each time and I could patch the tyre when I got home, but twice I managed to inflict large cuts (5-10mm) to the tyres that the sealant couldn't fully seal. Chucking a tube in on the side of the road isn't a problem.

I've since found three solutions. 1. Change the route! I have to go a slightly longer and much hillier route, but I haven't had a puncture on the crappy rural roads. 2. Change the tyres to IRC Formula Pro with X-Guard and no more punctures. 3. I bought a cross bike and fitted Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres. Road feel is crap and I've managed to puncture once with the truck tyre belt wire. These are harder to fit a tube into than the tubeless tyres.

So for me, road tubeless is brilliant. A nice set of RT specific wheels (Dura Ace C24TL) with the right tyres cannot be beat. 90-100psi for a smoother ride, no increase in rolling resistance that I can feel, almost no punctures that require me to stop and fit a tube. Sealant works and isn't messy. The only negative I can find is that until Easton releases their deep profile RT wheel, there hasn't been one readily available. The Corima wheelset always seemed a bit pricey if available.

I can see people having problems with ghetto set ups due to the higher pressures than on mtbs. But with a proper road tubeless set up, people who make a mess with sealant or cannot fit a tube without issues just need more practice. :)
 

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
Tubeless roadie will work...but not easily with a ghetto setup. UST rims and tubeless ready tyres only for best results.

I couldn't wait or justify the spend so I've just filled my tubes with Geax Pitstop latex and a small wad of glitter. I'm running 700x25 Vittoria Rubino(?) tyres at around 110 psi and so far are puncture free out on the road...twice they've gone down after the ride but pumped straight back up. The glitter theory is that it minimises the risk of a latex ejaculation by helping clog up any bigger holes - so far not apparently tested.
 

casnell

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I have a set of tubeless Ultegra for my crosser - who makes ust road tyres or cx ones
I've only used Hutchi Fusions, 2 and 3, and they've been excellent.

Rode over a newly smashed stubbie in the dark this morning - no problem!
 

scblack

Leucocholic
I'm using Racing Zeros ( not the two-way fit) and they had a very small hole drilled in them that needed sealing first, and Hutchi Fusions. Worked straight out of the box.
Hmmm. some of you guys have got me thinking I may give tubeless a go after all. I had given up on it for the roadie.

Lately I have run Schwalbe Ultremo DD tyres with latex tubes, and have been very good for flats. But most of that riding is on the M7 cycleway in Sydney now, so maybe much less crap to cause flats.

Like you Casnell I have Campagnolo Shamal Ultra wheels - basically the same as Fulcrum Zero's - but I do have the two-way fit rims. So with the proper tyres could be a very good option.

When my Ultremo's eventually wear out, I may give tubeless a go. Still undecided though.:crazy:
 

scblack

Leucocholic
Why is it a big advantage for mtb but not road? Is there something I'm missing? Better ride, less punctures, good road feel cornering....
I have always thought it is the size of the tyre. A MTB tyre has a large bag, and can use the lower pressures to really get a performance benefit from more tyre contact to the ground if the lower pressure is allowable.

Similar to lowering tyre pressures on a car for sand driving - the lower pressure allows the tyre to spread more, getting more grip in loose sand.

However, a road tyre is always going to be a high pressure item and dropping 20psi is not going to allow leaps in cornering performance. Might mean some better ride characteristics due to softer tyre, but is the grip going to improve greatly? Not to the same benefit that MTB tyres can gain.
 

Cave Dweller

Eats Squid
Highly recommend road tubeless.

I am running Fulcrum 2 way tubeless rims and the Specialized Roubaix 23/25 tubeless tyres (highly recommended). I dont have any problems getting the Specialized tyres on and off by hand without tyre levers.

Great feel, roll almost like tubular and save a few grams. I wont ever go back to tubes, glad I made the switch.

Only one flat so far. A large piece of glass bottle cut straight through the tyre and left a 2cm gash through the casing. Tyre written off (any tyre would have been). Put a repair patch inside, put in a tube and got me home fine. If you run tube or tubeless you should always ride with spare tubes, tyre patch kit, levers, co2 anyway.

As far as I'm concerned the only downside to tubeless is if you do cut and write off the tyre they are twice the price of GP4000s.
 
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