I reckon dropping to 90psi does give better cornering, subjective I know, but it feels grippier.
Road Tubeless worth it?
- Thread starter Cúl-Báire
- Start date
pistonbroke
Eats Squid
Are Mavic Ksyrium Elite S wheels tubeless compatible?
redbruce
Eats Squid
Correct. Two advantages for MTB (order will depend on where you ride and what is principle limiting issue) are grip and puncture resistance.
For road (racing) benefits are road feel and puncture resistance. For road (recreation) riding the same but in addition lower pressures (usually still accompanied by a slightly larger tyre) can give practical performance and ride benefits in typical road conditions. I guess in absolute terms another advantage may be the ability to run a tyre size smaller (that would normally require pressures above rim max for rider weight tubed) to save weight.
In my experience, I'm actually faster and more confident on 25mm tyres (I weigh 100kg; still with light weight tubes), including cornering (and especially in the wet), because I can run 20psi lower pressures (than 23's) and the increased tyre compliance gives better, more reliable and predictable grip on the surfaces I ride. The only outstanding issue for my application is the odd puncture (but I can live with it cause with 25's I get so few).
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crank1979
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Best of both worlds?
http://www.eastoncycling.com/en-gb/road/wheels/race/ec90-aero-55-clincher
I'd like to read some reports on the hubs though, or hope that Shimano releases a tubeless version of their C35 wheels soon.
scblack
Leucocholic
What sealant is meant to be used with road tubeless tyres?
I was just about to order two Hutchinson Fusion 3 tubeless road tyres and a bottle of Stans sealant:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/stans-no-tubes-473ml-tyre-sealant/
But reading the Q&A for that product its supposed to be limited to 40psi.
Whats the go with road tubeless tyres? Is this sealant fine?
I was just about to order two Hutchinson Fusion 3 tubeless road tyres and a bottle of Stans sealant:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/stans-no-tubes-473ml-tyre-sealant/
But reading the Q&A for that product its supposed to be limited to 40psi.
Whats the go with road tubeless tyres? Is this sealant fine?
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NoTubes sells it as a kit so I don't think you have any problems.
http://www.notubes.com/Road-Tubeless-Bundle-Fusion-3-P650.aspx
Doesn't seem to be any differentiation of sealant for road or MTB on their site.
mtb101
Likes Bikes and Dirt
I can't see the value of going tubeless on the road for a few reasons 1. is how rare punctures are on road and 2. is I know from experience that pushing the bead resulting in failure on the mtb at high speed (instant deflation) ..... well would hate to have that happen on the roadie going down kinglake for example, not good, now of course if you have specific rims and tyres then that would be the go.
have you tried running 25s rather than 23s? sounds like as you said where you ride is pretty rough where most of my roadie riding i.e. beach rd, or climbs like KL, Mt Donna have been puncture free over the years. the main time a puncture keeps coming back is when there's some embedded glass in tyre or tyre is just worn.
harmonix1234
Eats Squid
I jujst don't see punctures at that much of an issue.
I have had three punctures on the roadie since November 2011 (very specific I know, but that's when I got the bike).
One of those was a bit of glass on a wet and rainy day, the second pucnture was 5 minutes later when I didn't pull the offending bit of glass out properly and popped my second tube, the other was when I worked at a bottle factory in Cambridge and stupidly rode through the recycling area which was littered with glass.
Two of those three punctures could have easily been avoided had it not been for my sheer stupidity. .
Changing a tubes takes about 2 to 3 minutes when you have your kit organised and your technique down.
I actually don't mind taking those few minutes to stop and have a look at the scenery and have a drink, give my bike a look over. What's the rush? Unless that strava segment is calling, what does it matter if you have to get off the bike every now and then for a repair?
I just don't see the benefits of going tubeless for road unless you really do ride a route that is subject to lots of detritus and will cause you lots of punctures.
I have had three punctures on the roadie since November 2011 (very specific I know, but that's when I got the bike).
One of those was a bit of glass on a wet and rainy day, the second pucnture was 5 minutes later when I didn't pull the offending bit of glass out properly and popped my second tube, the other was when I worked at a bottle factory in Cambridge and stupidly rode through the recycling area which was littered with glass.
Two of those three punctures could have easily been avoided had it not been for my sheer stupidity. .
Changing a tubes takes about 2 to 3 minutes when you have your kit organised and your technique down.
I actually don't mind taking those few minutes to stop and have a look at the scenery and have a drink, give my bike a look over. What's the rush? Unless that strava segment is calling, what does it matter if you have to get off the bike every now and then for a repair?
I just don't see the benefits of going tubeless for road unless you really do ride a route that is subject to lots of detritus and will cause you lots of punctures.
scblack
Leucocholic
Point 1 - What road are you riding on? I'm in Sydney and punctures are part of life. Regular.
Point 2 - I reckon the high pressure on a roadie tyre would seriously limit the instance of bead failures. However, I don't presently think I'll run very low pressure anyway. I run 120psi now with tubes, so I may try 110, and see how I go. If I can get the bastard of a tyre on, and then inflated, that is.
Regardless, I have ordered two Hutchinson Fusion 3 tubeless tyres last night plus a bottle of Stans sealant from Wiggle. See how I go.
OCD'R
Likes Dirt
Pushys have got the Ultremo RT kit FYI...
I run Challenge Roubaix (clincher or open tubulars as they call them) on my roadie, they are 27c but measure 30.5 on my wide rims. I use latex tubes and run 65r & 55f (yes, PSI) and it is heavenly. I live out of town on fairly crappy coarse chip/spray seal roads (typical country roads).
I run Challenge Roubaix (clincher or open tubulars as they call them) on my roadie, they are 27c but measure 30.5 on my wide rims. I use latex tubes and run 65r & 55f (yes, PSI) and it is heavenly. I live out of town on fairly crappy coarse chip/spray seal roads (typical country roads).
Big JD
Wheel size expert
I use latex too and take 70 in the rear and 60 up front
wombat
Lives in a hole
pistonbroke
Eats Squid
This is the Roadie section JD. You're either in or you're not.
Got any Lycra yet?
Big JD
Wheel size expert
nope and I aint coming in
Currently running 25's which I found to be much better then the 23's in-terms of puncture resistance and also road feel. Most of my riding is done around Lara, Little River, Anikie, Meredith; I've not ridden KL or Mt Donna so can't comment however the roads here are dead, full of pot holes and other nastys.
Decision will depend greatly on what wheels I pickup for the new bike; if they are tubeless capable then I will give it a go.
scblack
Leucocholic
I had a burp this morning with my latex tube on the front wheel.
Yes, a burp.
With a Latex tube.
Rolling along on a flat piece of cycleway on M7, when PPPSSSSSTTTT goes the front wheel. Oh shit I've got a puncture. Pull up, and a four inch section of the bead has burst off the rim and green latex tube is poking out. Tyre is NOT losing pressure though. I just let some pressure out, bead pops back in, I ensure it is seated fine, then pump up and all is fine. Ride re-commences to work.
WHY would I hear the PPPSSSTTT if the tube is clearly not punctured? And how did such a small section of bead come undone, especially seeing the Vredestein tyres currently fitted have quite a tight bead.:crazy: