Cardy George
Piercing rural members since 1981
Did the rotor swap have the desired effect?
Santa Cruz Highball C
- Thread starter beeb
- Start date
Ultra Lord
Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
Obviously, have you seen how it looks now?
Hot AF
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Still not fully bedded in, but yes - I've got Hope rotors on the other bike, and also tried the Formula rotors on it but found them too much.
I just put them on initially because (A) I had them, and (B) to slow the hemorrhaging of the wallet.
Once the pads bedded in I was coming into switchbacks in all types of shapes, haha.Thanks sweetie.
Oh, you mean the bike...
Cardy George
Piercing rural members since 1981
Hmmmm, might have to go shopping for Cura rotors then......Still not fully bedded in, but yes - I've got Hope rotors on the other bike, and also tried the Formula rotors on it but found them too much.
I just put them on initially because (A) I had them, and (B) to slow the hemorrhaging of the wallet.
Thanks sweetie.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
How many, what sizes? I have several... PM me.
Ultra Lord
Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
You don’t know thatOh, you mean the bike...
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
So update time for the ol' Santa Cruz. I almost sold this frame recently, but it looks like lockdowns/travel restrictions are going to be an ongoing part of life for a while yet, so I needed a bike for local loops. I also wanted a bike for when I just want to go and punch out some gravel kms. Having ridden this with a 120mm fork back in my first build, I knew the geo would be perfect for such rides - but the suspension fork was mostly just unnecessary weight. Essentially the bike's a fraction small for me even for XC-type mountain biking, but is perfect for crunching km's on path or gravel - so the flat-bar gravel & path bike idea was born. I already had the frame, the skinny carbon rims, and having ridden it with both 2.3"-ish XC tyres and 2.1" slicks in the past, it seemed skinnier tyres would be better for bike paths (less wind-resistance), but retaining some tread in case of gravel would be ideal. Obviously smaller tyres help keep the rotating weight down which makes the bike feel a bit more spritely too, so ended up getting some 700c 44mm gravel tyres (for those that don't know, 700c tyres fit 29er rims)
This was intended to be a cheap build, but that went out the window pretty quickly as lockdown boredom allowwd my plans to spiral a little out of control. Did manage to re-use some parts though - with the frame, handlebar, stem, headset, BB, seatpost rear wheel and front rim being re-used (would've been a whole front wheel but I'd previously robbed the front hub for the Waltly, so had to get it rebuilt thanks to @The Duckmeister).
Frame - Santa Cruz Highball C (Carbon V1)
Front fork - Bombtrack BPC (Carbon, 15x110mm axle spacing, WolfTooth axle, and custom machined and bonded "expansion plug" because the fork didn't come with plug or axle. WTF...)
Handlebars - Renthal Fatbar Carbon 31.8 10(?)mm rise (approx 750mm wide with grips)
Stem - Funn Stryge 70mm (underrated stem, cheap but stiff - doesn't feel like a typical noodly long stem)
Headset - Chris King (red anodised cups)
Grips - ODI Elite Pro
Saddle - Ritchey Classic V2
Seatpost - Brand X rigid alloy.
Brake system - Hope Tech X2, metallic pads, red anodised bore caps, lever adjuster screws and pivot pins.
Rotors - Hope floating 180mm (red anodised centres)
Cranks - Shimano XT M8100
Chainring - Wolftooth Drop-Stop A 32t (wider teeth to suit 9/10/11sp chains)
Chain - Shimano HG-95
Pedals - Chromag Dagga
Rear derailleur - Shimano Zee RD-M640 Shadow+ 10sp (the "Short" version, not the "DH" type)
Rear shifter - Shimano Zee SL-M640 10sp (bar-clamp)
Cassette/Cog - Shimano Deore XT CS-M771 11-34T 10sp
Front hub - Hope Pro 4 110x15mm (Red)
Rear hub - Hope Pro-4 142x12mm (Red)
Front & rear rims - Light Bicycle RM29C19 (30mm ext. width, 24mm int.)
Spokes - DT Comps (Silver)
Nipples - Silver DT brass.
Front Tyre - WTB Raddler 700c x 44
Rear Tyre - WTB Raddler 700c x 44
Tubes - Nope. Just some bear tape and Stans sealant
Total weight - Light!
It's the...
The red bore-cap detail idea actually came from the rear axle:
More matchy-matchy at the front (Might revert the master cylinder caps back to black though, I'm not sold on the red there yet):
32 teeth of a wolf:
Shouldn't need too much gear range on a bike this light (I will get some Sugru on the chainstay soon though, as it slaps a bit currently even with the clutched derailleur):
Plenty of tyre clearance here! The few flakes missing from the clear-coat prove it's not all new either:
Another of the recycled parts. The rear hub is from an old Chain Reaction-sourced Hope wheelset, ergo the different laser etching:
Took it for a spin around some bike-path (and even a tiny bit of gravel) yesterday, and it seems pleasantly 'fit for purpose'. Definitely a nippy little bugger!
(@Chriso_29er)
This was intended to be a cheap build, but that went out the window pretty quickly as lockdown boredom allowwd my plans to spiral a little out of control. Did manage to re-use some parts though - with the frame, handlebar, stem, headset, BB, seatpost rear wheel and front rim being re-used (would've been a whole front wheel but I'd previously robbed the front hub for the Waltly, so had to get it rebuilt thanks to @The Duckmeister).
Frame - Santa Cruz Highball C (Carbon V1)
Front fork - Bombtrack BPC (Carbon, 15x110mm axle spacing, WolfTooth axle, and custom machined and bonded "expansion plug" because the fork didn't come with plug or axle. WTF...)
Handlebars - Renthal Fatbar Carbon 31.8 10(?)mm rise (approx 750mm wide with grips)
Stem - Funn Stryge 70mm (underrated stem, cheap but stiff - doesn't feel like a typical noodly long stem)
Headset - Chris King (red anodised cups)
Grips - ODI Elite Pro
Saddle - Ritchey Classic V2
Seatpost - Brand X rigid alloy.
Brake system - Hope Tech X2, metallic pads, red anodised bore caps, lever adjuster screws and pivot pins.
Rotors - Hope floating 180mm (red anodised centres)
Cranks - Shimano XT M8100
Chainring - Wolftooth Drop-Stop A 32t (wider teeth to suit 9/10/11sp chains)
Chain - Shimano HG-95
Pedals - Chromag Dagga
Rear derailleur - Shimano Zee RD-M640 Shadow+ 10sp (the "Short" version, not the "DH" type)
Rear shifter - Shimano Zee SL-M640 10sp (bar-clamp)
Cassette/Cog - Shimano Deore XT CS-M771 11-34T 10sp
Front hub - Hope Pro 4 110x15mm (Red)
Rear hub - Hope Pro-4 142x12mm (Red)
Front & rear rims - Light Bicycle RM29C19 (30mm ext. width, 24mm int.)
Spokes - DT Comps (Silver)
Nipples - Silver DT brass.
Front Tyre - WTB Raddler 700c x 44
Rear Tyre - WTB Raddler 700c x 44
Tubes - Nope. Just some bear tape and Stans sealant
Total weight - Light!
It's the...
The red bore-cap detail idea actually came from the rear axle:
More matchy-matchy at the front (Might revert the master cylinder caps back to black though, I'm not sold on the red there yet):
32 teeth of a wolf:
Shouldn't need too much gear range on a bike this light (I will get some Sugru on the chainstay soon though, as it slaps a bit currently even with the clutched derailleur):
Plenty of tyre clearance here! The few flakes missing from the clear-coat prove it's not all new either:
Another of the recycled parts. The rear hub is from an old Chain Reaction-sourced Hope wheelset, ergo the different laser etching:
Took it for a spin around some bike-path (and even a tiny bit of gravel) yesterday, and it seems pleasantly 'fit for purpose'. Definitely a nippy little bugger!
(@Chriso_29er)
Last edited:
Chriso_29er
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Any gravel bike with a ZEE mech has to be the coolest getting around anyway, but then look at this thing! So nice.
I could think of a few trails this thing would rip to shreds.
Quick question, are NW front rings the same for 10s and 11s?
I could think of a few trails this thing would rip to shreds.
Quick question, are NW front rings the same for 10s and 11s?
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
If I remember correctly, 9/10/11sp all share the same internal widths.
It's also the reason I'm running the WolfTooth chainring. I like the direct-mount (12sp) Shimano cranksets, but the teeth on the matching Shimano 12sp chainrings are too narrow for the 9/10/11sp chains so the WolfTooth marries the two standards together.
Lucaw
Next in line
And 8 speed will fit no problems
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Had to get my hot water unit replaced at home today. The plumber came nice and early leaving me with the arvo free so took this for a blast round the local creek path.
Holy smokes this is a quick bike! Very happy with the build kit too, perfect for the task at hand. Will be interesting to eventually get it out onto some proper gravel - think I might want to drop a few psi compared to what I was running today!
The 700c x 44 gravel tyres are mint for this path/smooth gravel riding though. Light enough to feel snappy when you hit the pedals, narrow enough to not feel additional drag when punching into a headwind (I would've today, I assure you!), enough tread to grip well when cornering hard, and just enough volume to take the sting out of slight steps and edges in the paths.
No pics though, I was having too much fun smashing out the local loop!
Holy smokes this is a quick bike! Very happy with the build kit too, perfect for the task at hand. Will be interesting to eventually get it out onto some proper gravel - think I might want to drop a few psi compared to what I was running today!
The 700c x 44 gravel tyres are mint for this path/smooth gravel riding though. Light enough to feel snappy when you hit the pedals, narrow enough to not feel additional drag when punching into a headwind (I would've today, I assure you!), enough tread to grip well when cornering hard, and just enough volume to take the sting out of slight steps and edges in the paths.
No pics though, I was having too much fun smashing out the local loop!
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
In the back, all of them. In the front, a little less so they bag out evenly when seated.
(I don't use a gauge, which typically mystifies everyone given how OCD I am about everything else.
)
leitch
Feelin' a bit rrranty
Don't get sucked into the old school "more is better" for road tyres. 44c tyres you shouldn't need more than 35-40psi (or in your measurements, when you give it a squeeze and you're like "hmm... maybe just another few pumps", resist the urge).
Bike looks great. Usually geared rigid mtbs weird me out, but this is nice.
Bike looks great. Usually geared rigid mtbs weird me out, but this is nice.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
It's not at 100psi or anything like that, it's probably at 45psi (at a guess*) currently. I tried it a little lower when I first rode it (probably around 35psi) and it was bagging out a bit too much and dragging the side knobs a little. Remember I'm around 90kg, so will need a few more psi's squeezed in compared to you! I reckon around 40-45psi would be the sweet spot on smoother gravel, 35-40psi on courser gravel or corrugations, but this was a straight-up concrete and asphalt bike path loop so pumped it up accordingly.
*All psi measurements estimated off a cheapo gauge on a 12V compressor I sometimes use to seat very stubborn tubeless tyres (luckily not very often...)
I reckon around 40-45psi would be the sweet spot on smoother gravel, 35-40psi on courser gravel or corrugations, but this was a straight-up concrete and asphalt bike path loop so pumped it up accordingly.*All psi measurements estimated off a cheapo gauge on a 12V compressor I sometimes use to seat very stubborn tubeless tyres (luckily not very often...)
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Can confirm - It is bloody rapid!
Have you considered angling the bell into a more aerodynamic orientation.