Share your top 3 MTB tips

eastie

Likes Bikes and Dirt
1. don't torture your crack with a crap saddle
2. anti chafe - the longer the ride the thicker the layers
3. don't sit around in a chamois pool of crack sweat for longer than you have to post ride
 

si618

Likes Dirt
Ride with flats, even if it's just occasionally.
Try dry chain lube. RnR Gold works for me.
Learn to dirt jump, even if you're an old fart. You may never be stylish or go huge, but getting air is rad, and like flat pedals, will make you a better rider.
Allow your body time to recover after injuries. It takes longer as you get older, no doubt in part because you didn't when you were younger. I still suck at this.
 
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ducky1988

Likes Dirt
N+1 is fucking awesome. It means no matter what the conditions were/are you've always got something to ride. It means that your parts last 4x as long since you don't ride it all the time too. The only shit part of N+1 is when there's 2 people who have "his and hers" of everything. Makes storage annoying.
Don't forget this equation can be represented as s-1=ideal no. of bikes. S being the number of bikes it will take for a separation or serious discussion with spouse.
 

schred

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Have you ever used one of these? I find with a schraeder valve that the pressure measurement can vary by quite a bit depending on the pressure you apply with your thumb/hand to make the gauge seal on the valve. Just wondering if any of these gauges screw on to the valve to remove this variable?

Ideal for my tyre pressure setting process with a schraeder valve would be
1. Pump up tyre to above the desired pressure
2. Screw on gauge
3. Bleed to desired pressure
4. Remove gauge

Don't seem to have this issue with presta valves. The variability seems to be removed because the gauge gets pushed down to the hilt on these valves.
I use an air filled T&E tools gauge (0-40), you can observe the small loss of tyre pressure upon reconnecting pretty clearly as the psi increments are 5mm apart, on the Schraeder it's about .2psi for one connection and removal of the gauge. It took 5 connections to drop 1psi when I checked it (5 on, 5 off). I spose may have something to do with the quality of the connection, but it seemed pretty common clip blade type attachment.

I'm sure a scientist here will be able to model the flow, my simple understanding was the noise you hear is mostly the volume change in the device (gauge or pump) when filling up or exiting the device as the check valve at the wheel engages faster and is mostly in the device when it free flows. Therefore most pressure loss is on connection, not removal.

Does anyone check their hot pressures?? jk.

Edit: I think you're onto something with the threaded attachment. For the application these things are made it's usually to take a measurement in the fastest possible time. I guess you could ask them, or add one yourself?
 
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John U

MTB Precision
I'm sure a scientist here will be able to model the flow, my simple understanding was the noise you hear is mostly the volume change in the device (gauge or pump) when filling up or exiting the device as the check valve at the wheel engages faster and is mostly in the device when it free flows. Therefore most pressure loss is on connection, not removal.

Does anyone check their hot pressures?? jk.

Edit: I think you're onto something with the threaded attachment. For the application these things are made it's usually to take a measurement in the fastest possible time. I guess you could ask them, or add one yourself?
Yeah, it's not the little squirt of air lost when putting the gauge on and off I'm worried about. I use a digital topeak gauge. I need to push down on the valve with a bit of pressure to get a proper seal for the gauge. When doing this the pressure values go all over the place. I can see why they do. The pressure I'm applying pushes the valve stem into the tube which is displacing air. This pushes the air pressure up. If the valve was screwed on I would not need to apply the pressure to the stem to get a seal and everything would be much more constant.

I'm not not having this issue with the presta valves because the screw at the bottom of the stem stops the stem being pressed into the tube. This stops that air being displaced.

I've only got one bike running schraeder valves so it's not a huge deal.

I guess you're right. I might have to rig something up myself. Other option might be to go tubeless on this bike if the tubeless schraeder valves have the nut at the bottom of the stem.

Sorry for the thread derail.
 

Nath8

Likes Dirt
1 - MTB is awesome! Doesn't matter what you ride or where you ride, can you think of anything better? Even a good women will still nag :behindsofa:
2 - Rock'n'Roll Gold.
3 - Buy yourself a single speed rigid. Will make you choose better lines (hurts if you don't), hold speed through corners and stronger overall. Great for winter too.
 

BT180

Max Pfaff
1) Don't wear lycra
2) Don't ride hungover
3) Try and warm up/stretch before you ride. Nothing worse than not being able to move your body weight around freely when you're too stiff.
 

HamboCairns

Thanks for all the bananas
The opinion of a newbie rider -

1. You don't need better components, you need better fitness, strength, skills.
2. Ride with flats, buy flat pedal shoes.
3. Lighten the front wheel and trust your bike (suspension).

4. Keep your chain clean
5. Join a social group and keep up!
6. Clean up a trail once in a while (join a working bee)
 

spoozbucket

Likes Dirt
Yeah, it's not the little squirt of air lost when putting the gauge on and off I'm worried about. I use a digital topeak gauge. I need to push down on the valve with a bit of pressure to get a proper seal for the gauge. When doing this the pressure values go all over the place. I can see why they do. The pressure I'm applying pushes the valve stem into the tube which is displacing air. This pushes the air pressure up. If the valve was screwed on I would not need to apply the pressure to the stem to get a seal and everything would be much more constant.

I'm not not having this issue with the presta valves because the screw at the bottom of the stem stops the stem being pressed into the tube. This stops that air being displaced.

I've only got one bike running schraeder valves so it's not a huge deal.

I guess you're right. I might have to rig something up myself. Other option might be to go tubeless on this bike if the tubeless schraeder valves have the nut at the bottom of the stem.

Sorry for the thread derail.
Specialized tubes are threaded all the way, bought one by accident a long time ago and only installed it just a couple of days ago.
My ol' man is a bit of a freak with his car and caravan tyre pressures so I got him a decent gauge and it works really well and the gauge only goes to 60Psi so it's easy to get your pressures exact.
Like this-
View attachment 326154
 

John U

MTB Precision
Looks like some Schwalbe tubes might be fully threaded. Never used them though.
Specialized tubes are threaded all the way, bought one by accident a long time ago and only installed it just a couple of days ago.
My ol' man is a bit of a freak with his car and caravan tyre pressures so I got him a decent gauge and it works really well and the gauge only goes to 60Psi so it's easy to get your pressures exact.
Like this-
View attachment 326154
Thanks for the tips. I will look for some fully threaded schraeder tubes.

SB - can you remember what the gauge is? Does is have a bleed valve?
 

spoozbucket

Likes Dirt
Thanks for the tips. I will look for some fully threaded schraeder tubes.

SB - can you remember what the gauge is? Does is have a bleed valve?
It's branded as a speedwaymotors.com(US store) product but is just a bunch of bits put together, USG gauge, bleeder, bit of hose and a stock chuck on the end.

Got pretty well shafted on the price and the store apologised but they were always helpful so I wasn't too worried. You'd be able to grab something like this but still I don't understand why you don't run Frenchies if your other bikes have 'em.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TYRE-PRE...320345?hash=item4ac8230d99:g:uwAAAMXQ0v1RbSCw
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
1) Don't hit shit.
2) Don't get sucked in be the hype/Kool Aid around whatever the current Next Big Thing is. Assess your riding style and locations, do your research and fit what best suits you. It may not be the trendy thing to keep everyone else happy, but it's your bike, so make sure it keeps you happy!
3) Don't fuck with the trails. If you can't ride a feature, walk around it, learn to ride it or go & ride somewhere else that's better suited to your ability. Don't destroy trail features because you're a gumby.
 
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shiny

Go-go-gadget-wrist-thingy
Get a professional bike fit, do some research on bike fitters before committing as they all have their own methods. Bloke I used does a biomechanical body/bike fit, sounds a bit wanky but the difference it made for me in comfort and overall speed was huge.

Assemble your own bike, allows to really to get know your bike.

Ride your bike!
 

richie_gt

Likes Bikes and Dirt
1. Get fitter - riding is so much more fun when you're not struggling.

2. Install a Dropper Post - takes compromise out of riding, don't know how I lived without it!

3. Go tubeless - I have not got a flat off road* since I went tubeless, I like riding my bike as opposed to fixing flats!

*I have flatted on the road with tubeless though! :p
 

Psimpson7

Likes Dirt
1. Ride.
2. Ride more, even if its road k's during the week
3. Ride with people that are faster than you.

A lot of people would get far more gain out of a couple of extra hours in the saddle a week than they ever would buying 'upgrades'

p.s to balance out the dropper love I think my Reverb was a total waste of money.
 

Mrlinderman

Likes Dirt
Still learning allot in this sport but my top 3 are:

1. Look ahead, use peripheral vision for obstacles
2. Wear protection, boosts confidence while riding which in turn boosts overall confidence and progress
3. You will crash.. the key tip is to not let that crash damper your spirits, learn from it, understand why you crashed, relax and repair your body then feel refreshed knowing why you crashed and continue to ride
 

slippy

Likes Bikes and Dirt
1. Clean your stanchions, shock shaft and dropper post stanchion with a clean rag before every ride. Even if you don't clean the rest of the bike this tip will allow you to double the service intervals of all these parts and save $$$.

2. Get lighter wheels.

3. Hang your tongue out while riding a fast downhill section. Try it, you'll see why...
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
1. Learn to maintain your bike.
2. Buy proper the tools you need to do 1.
3. Ride as often as you can.
 
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