Shimano xt stainless steel lines

bighitter

bighitter

Likes Bikes and Dirt
my friend farked my xt steel lines today somehow and i need new ones.
Where can i get them at the best price - and what do they cost.
does anyone have any they wanna sell me for cheap ?
Or trade something for ?
 
the xt lines are pretty good, but have a look at the goodriche lines from dirt works. if they are anything like as good as the ones on my GSX-R, they are an awesome line.
had a guy in the shop last week who had a set on his XSIV's and reckoned they had improved them 1000%.
 
lupine128 said:
the xt lines are pretty good, but have a look at the goodriche lines from dirt works. if they are anything like as good as the ones on my GSX-R, they are an awesome line.
had a guy in the shop last week who had a set on his XSIV's and reckoned they had improved them 1000%.
Click to expand...

lupine are the lines (goodriche) the steel braided then plastic coated ones like the stock XSIV lines, they are much nicer than the factory XT lines as they sharp scratchy bare metal!
hmm i need anything 2 improve my XSIV's, the front brake is so inconsistant like spongy and all the way to the lever one minute and then perfect the next, and after lots and lots of bleeding the next day it goes back 2 being farked!
 
with the XSIV's try bleeding from the caliper end. sometimes a small air lock can happen in the olive at the lever end, and it's pretty hard to bleed thru.
the goodrich lines look a little like the hayes lines. thinnish black lines.
 
sorry bout the hijack, but loopy u mean "bleeding from the caliper, by pushing th fluid from the bleeder screw on the caliper, up the line to the resivour (spelling) so in other words reverse bleed?!?!, hm so the way ive been doing it by fulling the resivour up and punping it down and on & off with the bleeder screw is the wrong way bout it? do u think ill get a better operation if i reverse bleed?
 
I've tried standard bleeding a few times, it was crap, my manager reckons reverse bleeding is the way to go on XT's, so I'll do that next time I can be bothered.
 
standard bleeding is fine for motos and cars where you are moving a fairly large volume of fluid per lever pull. with a really small volume like MTB brakes, you are better off to use a syringe to drain the reseviour(?) and then inject slowly from the bleed nipple. have a second person there to keep draining the res as you go untill you are sure you have flushed right thru.
also tap the caliper gently with the hadle of a screwdriver or similar as you do it, just to be sure to dislodge any air bubbles.
that should help out a bit.
 
i have just started using goodridge lines (dunno if they are the same as goodriche??) on my xt's and they are the best i've used. i've had the shimano ones and these goodridges are way better. you can tie a not in them aznd they won't kink. soo easy to set up too, they don't use an olive which is cool. for bleeding my xt's i've found the best thing to do with new lines is to reverse bleed them just to get the fluid into the lines but then i just do it from the top after that. works fine for me. xt's are basically self bleeding n e way once the intitial fluid is in there. the air bubbles will rise up to the resovouir and then its a simple matter of taking the top caps off and topping up the resovouir with maybe a few compressions just to get the air up. this can be sped up by taking the brake of ur bike and leaving it strung up in a vertical position for a night with the top caps off the levers. all the air rises up and then u just top it up. easy as
 
if i had the chance id get beta lines, dont the steel braided caus havoc on ur frame, get some aftermarket ones
 
between $90-120 depending on which end they are for.
and mungus, be care full leaving the caps off, as you can get water contamination really easily, especialy if it is humid. and thats bad.....
 
XT Stainless lines hinder the peformance of your brakes. The plastic lines improve performance greatly. I think the plastic line on my XT brakes was shimano.
 
Get the cuttable resin lines for the Deore brakes. They'll work with XT's, and give less line expansion. Plus they're cheaper and don't scuff the frame.
 
and mungus, be care full leaving the caps off, as you can get water contamination really easily, especialy if it is humid. and thats bad.....
Click to expand...

i can't say i've ever heard of that happening......has it actually happened to you or have u just heard it?? why would the water want to condense on the oil though....i don't understand
 
Sorry to ressurect this post, I was searching for it and found it, and had to reply to the last post:

DOT fluid is hydroscopic, it absorbs water. Once the brakes are bled and everything sealed off, this absorbtion helps keep the brakes working well, but in the open air, it can lead to excess water in the fluid, rendering it useless.
This is what I've been taught, if it's wrong, feel free to correct me.
 
Hmmm good point, I thought someone mentioned it in relation to the XSIV (which run DOT), but it was actually about the XTs... whoops, maybe I should learn to read.
Anyway, all this talk of brakes has made me wanna go bleed mine! I'm going to try the reverse bleed method mentioned above, sounds like it's the way to go.
 
have to admit that the water absorbsion was for DOT fluid.
mineral oil won't absorb water, but can get contaminated by general crap.
mostly with brakes, if it's a sealed, or semi sealed system (as they all are) it's best to keep done up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top