Shock and fork servicing/upgrade recommendations

ozzybmx

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Sounds good, they want to have a look as the fork before making a judgement on the issue, I'm ok with paying for a mod to make it feel better, the Luftkappe may be the way to go. I'll see what they say and go from there.
 
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Paulie_AU

Likes Dirt
ozzybmx said:
I have played with all the setting, from fully open and a combo of open/shut and everything in between. They are basically fully open as it is, 3 volume spacers and only about ~55psi.
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Ditch volume spacers and run pressure correct for sag. Only add spacers if bottoming hard and your sag is correct. On those pressures you will be way down mid stroke getting hammered. Fork will feel horrible.
 
Isaakk

Isaakk

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Paulie_AU said:
Ditch volume spacers and run pressure correct for sag. Only add spacers if bottoming hard and your sag is correct. On those pressures you will be way down mid stroke getting hammered. Fork will feel horrible.
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If ozzy doesn't mind me also jumping on this thread - what would one do if you're finding you can't get anywhere close to bottoming the fork on large hits with no tokens in, even with correct or more than correct sag? Have already done the usual, lower & upper service(s), check no air leaking into lowers, check fork has full travel with no air, etc. Guys at LBS have no idea either. Bout the one thing I haven't done is a full damper bleed or rebuild, but it's a brand spanking Charger 2 so would think it should be fine..? It's been driving me nuts.

At the point now where a nice new Pike Ultimate RC2 may just rock up in the post box.. :rolleyes:
 
gippyz

gippyz

Likes Dirt
Hope everyone don't mind my dumb question and (sorry to hijack your post @ozzybmx), but what's the "correct sag"? I normally run 25%, but is that a correct sag? If not, then what constitute a correct sag?
 
hifiandmtb

hifiandmtb

Sphincter beanie
On a long travel fork, yeah. But don't sweat the measured sag, it's hard to consistently get the sag figure...get it close to 25% on average then make pressure changes based on other riding impressions (bottom out, hand chatter, where the air pressure places you in the damper curve, etc).

And maybe borrow a ShockWiz.
 
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Paulie_AU

Likes Dirt
Isaakk said:
If ozzy doesn't mind me also jumping on this thread - what would one do if you're finding you can't get anywhere close to bottoming the fork on large hits with no tokens in, even with correct or more than correct sag? Have already done the usual, lower & upper service(s), check no air leaking into lowers, check fork has full travel with no air, etc. Guys at LBS have no idea either. Bout the one thing I haven't done is a full damper bleed or rebuild, but it's a brand spanking Charger 2 so would think it should be fine..? It's been driving me nuts.

At the point now where a nice new Pike Ultimate RC2 may just rock up in the post box.. :rolleyes:
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My first response is hit bigger shit. If a trail only deserves 120mm travel then it should only get that.....

My 36 has gone full travel only on stupid hits I thought I was going to be toast on. Otherwise it likes to run to about 150mm travel which I feel is a good margin on a 160mm fork.

If you want to look at how to tune the shims for a lighter tune look up the Boxxer manual. It has how to reorder the shims.
 
gippyz

gippyz

Likes Dirt
hifiandmtb said:
On a long travel fork, yeah. But don't sweat the measured sag, it's hard to consistently get the sag figure...get it close to 25% on average then make pressure changes based on other riding impressions (bottom out, hand chatter, where the air pressure places you in the damper curve, etc).

And maybe borrow a ShockWiz.
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Daniel Hale said:
depends on your weight, fork travel, riding type etc, i’m light, no huge hits so can easily run 30% sag for that softer feel,
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Thanks folks.

I actually have a shockwiz, but it constantly wants me to go low air pressure - much lower than recommended, massive number of tokens (2 for my long travel 170mm and about 4 for my short travel 130mm), very slow rebound, and very much closed compression.
I found its tuning very harsh for long travel, lots of hand chatter and constantly feel the fork is diving.
Its tuning for my short travel is good. I don't bottom out on hard hit, relatively ok on high speed chattery stuff (only a bit of hand chatter), and the fork is not diving. When I compare the settings with long travel fork, they're very different. Rebound is still on slow side for the short travel, but not as slow as the long travel (only 4 clicks from the slowest!), not as much compression (4 from open for short, 7 from open for long). I'm about 20-25% sag for the short travel and 30% sag for long travel, which are ok i think.

Thus, I have a mix bag feeling about shockwiz. It seems to do the job very well on short travel, but not for long travel.

If it makes any different, the short travel is Fox 34 FIT 4, long travel is RS Lyrik.
 
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Paulie_AU

Likes Dirt
gippyz said:
Thanks folks.

I actually have a shockwiz, but it constantly wants me to go low air pressure - much lower than recommended, massive number of tokens (2 for my long travel 170mm and about 4 for my short travel 130mm), very slow rebound, and very much closed compression.
I found its tuning very harsh for long travel, lots of hand chatter and constantly feel the fork is diving.
Its tuning for my short travel is good. I don't bottom out on hard hit, relatively ok on high speed chattery stuff (only a bit of hand chatter), and the fork is not diving. When I compare the settings with long travel fork, they're very different. Rebound is still on slow side for the short travel, but not as slow as the long travel (only 4 clicks from the slowest!), not as much compression (4 from open for short, 7 from open for long). I'm about 20-25% sag for the short travel and 30% sag for long travel, which are ok i think.

Thus, I have a mix bag feeling about shockwiz. It seems to do the job very well on short travel, but not for long travel.

If it makes any different, the short travel is Fox 34 FIT 4, long travel is RS Lyrik.
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What type of riding are you telling it you are doing/ want to do?

Not at you specifically but I feel a lot of people think they ride faster than they do (or don't ride as centrally on the bike as they should), and then they get funny tune recommendations.

My latest tune on my 36 came from a couple of guys I race against and they are faster than me (podium elite men). They were on the money with what I should do with my fork, but thankfully I was only a couple of clicks off their tune. I do find though when I have my bike set up for race pace it feels a bit off riding slower. Still good but just not as good.
 
gippyz

gippyz

Likes Dirt
Paulie_AU said:
What type of riding are you telling it you are doing/ want to do?

Not at you specifically but I feel a lot of people think they ride faster than they do (or don't ride as centrally on the bike as they should), and then they get funny tune recommendations.

My latest tune on my 36 came from a couple of guys I race against and they are faster than me (podium elite men). They were on the money with what I should do with my fork, but thankfully I was only a couple of clicks off their tune. I do find though when I have my bike set up for race pace it feels a bit off riding slower. Still good but just not as good.
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Balanced riding.

I probably too far back on the bike tbh, that's probably why.
 
ozzybmx

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Paulie_AU said:
On those pressures you will be way down mid stroke getting hammered. Fork will feel horrible.
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I'm getting hammered anyway, the fork is way over damped even fully open. I have tried removing the spacers and playing with pressures, it's better with the 3 spacers and lower pressure.
 
beeb

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
I've wanted to try one of those "E-bike" 36's for a while now. Thicker stanchions, 34 airspring, Grip or Grip2 damper. Seems a potential best of both worlds solution. I've been a lot happier on the Grip2 (standard) 36's than the RC2 I had though, so not going to throw dollars at it to try...
 
Litenbror

Litenbror

Eats Squid
beeb said:
I've wanted to try one of those "E-bike" 36's for a while now. Thicker stanchions, 34 airspring, Grip or Grip2 damper. Seems a potential best of both worlds solution. I've been a lot happier on the Grip2 (standard) 36's than the RC2 I had though, so not going to throw dollars at it to try...
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Keep an eye out Zee Germans sometimes have them on clearance and it's usually the e-bike version. The last ones I got were e-bike 34s and they were great.
 
beeb

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Litenbror said:
Keep an eye out Zee Germans sometimes have them on clearance and it's usually the e-bike version. The last ones I got were e-bike 34s and they were great.
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Don't look Don't look Don't look Don't look Don't look Don't look Don't look :p

Haha, nah I'm all good for forks at the moment (I have 4 forks for 2 bikes as it is... :oops:), but thanks regardless.
 
ozzybmx

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Seems my damper was not working the best so needed a bit of a service. Will definitely feel better but were out of stock of a few of the small upgrades, so would have only been a level 3 service on the fork.

Spoke about a Grip2 or Push coil conversion, they were out of Grip2 and the other issue is my fork is actually 150mm... for some reason I had it in my head it was 160mm :rolleyes:

So it will be returned to me with a full fork service, increased from 150mm to 160mm and a ACS3 coil conversion... I'm a slut for small bump compliance, thus why I run maximum sag... looking forward to trying this out, should be butter smooth with coils front and back.
 
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