The QUICK question thread.....

[2DIE]

Huh sounds great. Process looks unnecessarily complicated. Hit up the local guys for some info.

Have you attempted a half arse home removal yet? Shifter, pliers, vice, multi grips, tea towel...

It seems changing the front ring is going to be the easier option.

Nah I haven't tried anything yet, I only have a few basic tools as I live in a unit. I emailed the distributor in the link and will probably give them a call in a few days if I don't hear back from them.

I think I'll have to change the BB and cranks to get a 24-25T chainring on there. I have read that it has a euro BB but wouldn't even know where to start looking for the parts I need to do it as I don't know the compatibility of stuff.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

[pink poodle]

Going out on a limb here...Euro sized bottom brackets are the traditional standard sized mtb bottom bracket. This is all a bit muddled since the press fit revolution. Pop up a photo or 3. What is the crank? More pics.

 

[pink poodle]

Just spent some time in your PYR thread. I'm pretty sure you wont be getting a 24-25t ring on the Ruktion crank. 30t might fit on. maybe...

You're best bet (if you really want a tiny ring) will be to either blow some coins on a direct mount spiderless crank or get a bmx style crankt that has a single pin mount with an mtb bottom bracket. DMR used to make an awesome crank like this. Plenty of other brands have as well. You might need to get on the hunt...

I'd just try a 32t ring and hope for the best.

 

[2DIE]

Going out on a limb here...Euro sized bottom brackets are the traditional standard sized mtb bottom bracket. This is all a bit muddled since the press fit revolution. Pop up a photo or 3. What is the crank? More pics.

The First 2 photos is the DMR cranks that are for a single chainring.

The 2nd 2 photos are of my STP parts bike with a bent frame that has a double chainring, although the inside one is missing.

Do you reckon it would be possible to swap them over and put a 24 or 25T on the inside chainring?

If it is possible, any idea of the tools I'd need?

Or would it be better just to get cranks that are made for the job?

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

[2DIE]

Just spent some time in your PYR thread. I'm pretty sure you wont be getting a 24-25t ring on the Ruktion crank. 30t might fit on. maybe...

You're best bet (if you really want a tiny ring) will be to either blow some coins on a direct mount spiderless crank or get a bmx style crankt that has a single pin mount with an mtb bottom bracket. DMR used to make an awesome crank like this. Plenty of other brands have as well. You might need to get on the hunt...

I'd just try a 32t ring and hope for the best.

I did look at the DMR crank but as soon as I saw they are about $200 I closed the page. I guess buying the Halo tool and sprocket might be the cheapest option.

Also the guy from the link you sent replied to my email today, they said they no longer are a Halo dealer and are just clearing out old stock they have and they don't have any of the Halo sprocket tools either.


Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

[pink poodle]

Well...that's more than 1 quick question.

To swap those cranks your going to need:
- 8mm hex key
- Crank extractor/puller (doesn't look like either have their respective manufacturer's self extracting bolts)
- shimano style external bottom bracket tool (those cranks aren't compatible with the other's bottom brackets).

Both cranks were good inexpensive dh/fr style cranks.

Does the story have a rear derailleur or chain tensioner? From memory they have vertical drop outs and this won't easily hold tension on the chain. I think you'll not get a good chain line trying to run a tiny ring on the race face crank.

Unless you have money to burn there isn't an easy way out of this. Either bike is going to need some $$$ dropped on it to get them rolling.

 

[2DIE]

Yeah that STP has a derailleur and vertical dropouts, I don't plan to get that one going as the rear triangle is bent and I just have some spare parts on it (I have 2 black STPs), there was a STP SS towards the end of the STPs manufacturing with horizontal dropouts though. The DMR has horizontal dropouts too.

I realize it's more than just a quick question now, at first I thought there might be a easy solution but I'll probably go for the Halo tool and sprocket as it looks like the easiest and cheaper option.

Thanks for all the help and info.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

[Shinigami]

Trying to up the spring on my jade. however much as the free length is fine once I get the retaining clip on, the issue is without some pre compression I can't get the bastard on .

Tried zip ties but I feel the ones I have arnt up to the task, what do people recommend (bigger zip ties?) or does this path lead to the confessions of a fuckwit thread?

 

[JTmofo]

Trying to up the spring on my jade. however much as the free length is fine once I get the retaining clip on, the issue is without some pre compression I can't get the bastard on .

Tried zip ties but I feel the ones I have arnt up to the task, what do people recommend (bigger zip ties?) or does this path lead to the confessions of a fuckwit thread?

I use a bench vice with some soft jaws and a mate to apply downward pressure.

I had the same issue with a cane creek spring, but a second pair of hands worked a treat.

Another option is some jubilee clips instead of zip ties.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[Flow-Rider]

Anyone know where I can get hold of a TST2 damper or replacement substitute for 150~160mm Marzocchi bombers with 32mm stanchions? Apparently the later model 55s tst2 don't fit.

 

[Oddjob]

Anyone know where I can get hold of a TST2 damper or replacement substitute for 150~160mm Marzocchi bombers with 32mm stanchions? Apparently the later model 55s tst2 don't fit.

Guess who has a 32mm Marz All Mountain 1...

Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk

 

[Flow-Rider]

Guess who has a 32mm Marz All Mountain 1...

Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk

Yeah, what a stupid design the damper cart is. It's still working but a bit noisy on the rebound and I opened it up to find the oil is metallic looking.

 

[pink poodle]

I've been trying with picking up a cheap dropper for my pivot m4x. I mainly use it for dirt jump and free ride style riding but have a long pedal to the trails, which is what I want the dropper for. Just saw that the ks Lev is on sale at bicycles on line. Are these a low maintenance or high maintenance dropper post? I seem to recall reading that some of the ks droppers require a fair bit of regular attention...

 

[hifiandmtb]

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/tranzx-dropper-seatpost-review-2017.html

Seems good.

 

[pink poodle]

Thanks for the link. I should've mentioned the dropper I am considering has the under seat activation mode, which appeals to me for this bike. As I'm not looking to go enduro on it etc, for the sake of a cleaner cockpit I'm going to sacrifice the remote convenience.

Because the frame's seat tube is relatively short I can't fit a nice length seat post in for the ride to the trail and then slam the seat low enough for being funky while on trail. My thought is dropper goes up for ride to trail, collapses upon arrival, I have fun, seat goes back up, I slowly pedal home.

 

[Flow-Rider]

I've been trying with picking up a cheap dropper for my pivot m4x. I mainly use it for dirt jump and free ride style riding but have a long pedal to the trails, which is what I want the dropper for. Just saw that the ks Lev is on sale at bicycles on line. Are these a low maintenance or high maintenance dropper post? I seem to recall reading that some of the ks droppers require a fair bit of regular attention...

Less maintenance than some other brands but you still need to pull them down once a year, clean them out and relube, it also depends on how much you use it.

 

[pink poodle]

Less maintenance than some other brands but you still need to pull them down once a year, clean them out and relube, it also depends on how much you use it.

Sounds pretty standard. Thanks.

 

[slowmick]

what i the best tool for removing the removable cores from a stans valve? I've been using pliers but i assume there is a better way. the stans tools looks like it supposed to remove the valve core, not the whole assembly to put in the sealant.

 

[Knuckles]

what i the best tool for removing the removable cores from a stans valve? I've been using pliers but i assume there is a better way. the stans tools looks like it supposed to remove the valve core, not the whole assembly to put in the sealant.

Pliers every time. I have a screwdriver style core tool.........somewhere, but I have eleventy hundred pairs of pliers, at had, at any given moment, so they win.

Tool looks like this.

 

[Flow-Rider]

what i the best tool for removing the removable cores from a stans valve? I've been using pliers but i assume there is a better way. the stans tools looks like it supposed to remove the valve core, not the whole assembly to put in the sealant.

The core valves don't seem to be needed to be done up really tight. I've got this plastic set that came with the stems from fleabay and they do the job quite well.