Can a company cancel your legacy plan and force you onto a shittier plan? Netflix has advised I am being moved onto their basic plan with ads or I can pay double and get the same plan I have with no ads but higher price. Before I email just seeing if anyone knew as can’t seem to find much about it.
The QUICK question thread.....
- Thread starter Minlak
- Start date
Hambo
"I did a lot of very fat people"
Contract says they can change your plan at any time.
Looks like I will be reading T&Cs later.
I was on a legacy plan with Telstra granted it was 15 odd years ago but they kept it going for years before I switched. Netflix online chat said we cannot do anything. I queried nothing in the T&Cs I could see but they said they cannot help. Oh well it is the wife/kids who use it so they will have to get used to ads.
Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
Disconnect it then wait for a 'welcome back' discount. Contracts only seem to apply to stop the company from disadvantage and not so much the buyer. Enshittification wasn't the word of the year for no reason.
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beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Yeah but an account with Telstra generally has 15 years of price rises factored into the initial price.
Staunch
Eats Squid
Buy a second hand fire extinguisher (there's heaps on marketplace/gumtree, I paid $5 for one), clean the fire retardant out of it and then drill a hole in the top and install a tubeless valve. Then all you need is a bit of pump hose and pump head and you've essentially made of these for very little cost
I bought a 4kg extinguisher which is probably a little too big, takes a while to get it up to pressure. I'd probably use a 2kg if I did it again.
Alternatively just buy a product like that
ForkinGreat
Knows his Brassica oleracea
or @Staunch could get a CO2 inflator. which are cheap, and CO2 bulbs are cheap also.Buy a second hand fire extinguisher (there's heaps on marketplace/gumtree, I paid $5 for one), clean the fire retardant out of it and then drill a hole in the top and install a tubeless valve. Then all you need is a bit of pump hose and pump head and you've essentially made of these for very little cost
I bought a 4kg extinguisher which is probably a little too big, takes a while to get it up to pressure. I'd probably use a 2kg if I did it again.
Alternatively just buy a product like that
Well yeah but premium network. Allegedly.Yeah but an account with Telstra generally has 15 years of price rises factored into the initial price.
Staunch
Eats Squid
This is reuseable. More effort in making the thing but less waste overall every time you want to seat a tubeless tyre. Depends how often you need to do I guess.
ForkinGreat
Knows his Brassica oleracea
I have never needed to use anything other than my Circa 1980s Silca track pump to get a tubeless tyre to seat properly.
I do brush some some soapy water on the rim, and rub a cake of soap along the tyre bead both sides, and that helps the tyre get onto the rim, and seat properly. I do this process without putting sealant in. I then let the pressure out, remove the valve core, then inject the sealant, replace the valve core, pump to about 30ish psi, lay the wheel on one side, then the other, and generally flip the wheel a few times in my hands so that the sealant coats the inside of the tyre carcass.
The new generation Conti tyres might prove more of a challenge, but every schwalbe and maxxis tyre has mounted for me without issue using that method.
Staunch
Eats Squid
Great that you've never had any difficultly with a track pump, however not every rim/tyre combo will seat that easily.
There are some combinations, both road and MTB, that are just miserable. If you have a nice tight fit where it's tough to get the tyre onto the rim, and you have good contact between the bead and the rim, you're laughing. Some tyres however seem to be looser than others, and the rim they're mounted on can make an impact as well. It will also get harder once tyres have worn a little and the sidewalls/beads are softer, or if you've put some slight dints in the sidewalls of the rim.
A decent high-volume floor pump will probably be fine seating most MTB set ups, however having done countless different combos while working in a shop, occasionally you need a bit more airflow.
If you can't manage it with a track pump, the extinguisher or weed sprayer set ups are a good alternative to having to purchase a compressor if you have no other need for one.
pink poodle
ここには見るべきものは何もありません
You just need to keep your arms in tip top pumping condition by ummm....well you know, pumping regularly.
ForkinGreat
Knows his Brassica oleracea
All my tubeless tyres have been mounted on Stans flowex rims, both 26er and 29er, so there's that. I did have a disappointing experience with a Schwalbe nobby nic, TBH, the bead was stretched quite a bit, despite being a relatively new tyre. couldn't seal that little bugger no matter what. sold it or binned it. can't remember... blocked it out of my memory until now
ozzybmx
taking a shit with my boobs out
No, you cant take an eeb with the battery on a plane. You can take it without the battery... but someone said here, maybe on the eeee thread that you can carry a range extender in personal baggage, dont know how but it must be under the max allowable personal battery allowance.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
I can't remember the details, but I seem to recall that Eeeeeeeeeeeb batteries are considered restricted cargo, so you must get special permission to transport one. Check with your airline.
Cardy George
Piercing rural members since 1981
There's a watt hours limit for each battery and it also depends on the construction. Lithium Ion UNDER 100Wh, just tape the terminals. Lithium Ion 100Wh to 160Wh, two per passenger. All of which carry on only. Over 160Wh - you're freighting those bad boys.
Lithium metal has similar restrictions.
Qantas says
My Milwaukee 18v x 5Ah squeak under at 90 watt hours each. I normally have two of those and two 12v x 4Ah and no one has batted an eye lid.
birddog69
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Thanks