The QUICK question thread.....

Jabubu said:
Mine are perfectly fine, I just find them hard to get nice and clean.
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As per above. If you are worried about them looking dirty get a brown pair...black seem to be OK for not looking dirty.

Don't get yellow. They look dirty as soon as they are on yourbl bike.
 
I was playing around with my bar height and wondered if this was feasible. I suspect not as I'm sure I need a spacer above the stem?
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Jabubu said:
I was playing around with my bar height and wondered if this was feasible. I suspect not as I'm sure I need a spacer above the stem?
0a983e53a8c7c6fa6c5381369080f077.jpg



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Click to expand...
Depends on whether there is enough distance between the steerer and the topcap to take up the slack in the headset.

Try it. Nip up the topcap and then stand over the bike and rock the bars back and forth with the front brake on.

If the steerer still moves fore and aft then the steerer is bottoming out on the top cap.
 
Jabubu said:
I was playing around with my bar height and wondered if this was feasible. I suspect not as I'm sure I need a spacer above the stem?
0a983e53a8c7c6fa6c5381369080f077.jpg



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Click to expand...
I may have done similar in the past. I would say as a minimum you would want to make sure the upper stem bolt is below the top of the steerer.

Also, in case you don't realise - you can get 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5mm, etc... stem spacers.
 
beeb said:
I may have done similar in the past. I would say as a minimum you would want to make sure the upper stem bolt is below the top of the steerer.

Also, in case you don't realise - you can get 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5mm, etc... stem spacers.
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Might have to get a few smaller ones then. Thanks!

I switched it back before my ride just in case I was making a terrible mistake!


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Plenty of people run their stems like that @Jabubu . I don't. I'm all in for the spacer above life. As long as you have tension and contact you should be fine...unless you are turning on the send mode? All the chatter from charging chunder and slamming the bike down will work it loose eventually. If they goes unchecked you'll blow out the headset and possibly ovalise your head tube.
 
pink poodle said:
Plenty of people run their stems like that @Jabubu . I don't. I'm all in for the spacer above life. As long as you have tension and contact you should be fine...unless you are turning on the send mode? All the chatter from charging chunder and slamming the bike down will work it loose eventually. If they goes unchecked you'll blow out the headset and possibly ovalise your head tube.
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I'm not a sendy person but I do weigh a fair amount (108kg) so I thought I'd err on the side of caution and switch it back before my ride.
 
Jabubu said:
I was playing around with my bar height and wondered if this was feasible. I suspect not as I'm sure I need a spacer above the stem?
0a983e53a8c7c6fa6c5381369080f077.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
That's fine, but you wouldn't want to go much higher, because you begin to lose clamping area. You only need 2-3mm of stem above the steerer to give enough room for the top cap to not bottom out. I'm a fan of the no-spacer-on-top looks, it's neater.
 
The Duckmeister said:
That's fine, but you wouldn't want to go much higher, because you begin to lose clamping area. You only need 2-3mm of stem above the steerer to give enough room for the top cap to not bottom out. I'm a fan of the no-spacer-on-top looks, it's neater.
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OK I might put it back and give it a go, it felt good on the ride there!
 
Had a fair bit of brake fade last ride with a loaded bike packing rig.

Currently on standard 2 pot shimano brakes with finned metallic pads and rt66 180f 160r setup.

Do I:
1. Increase front to 203 rt66 , rear to 180m - $50 new rotor cost
2. Increase front to 203 rt66 rotor and that's it. $50 new rotor cost
3. Replace the front only wih a RT86 180mm ice tech rotor? $50 new rotor cost

I'm not sure I want a bigger rotor for this bike. It gets dropped and snags stuff and generally a bigger rotor is gonig to get damaged and warped from knocks, especially a bigger one. On the other hand I'm not sure if the move to ice tech is actually worth it compared to what a larger rotor would provide with more mass and larger surface area to cool it. I don't have issues with braking power outright, just fade on some of the logner descents and especially when loaded.

Oh and I am sort of indulging a finned rotor but most of these are centrelock and my wheels are 6 bolt.
 
Calvin27 said:
Oh and I am sort of indulging a finned rotor but most of these are centrelock and my wheels are 6 bolt.
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Shimano finned pads are a happy medium between longevity and braking + a bit of finned wank thrown in. Go new pads for a start, Uberbike race matrix or ematrix are a great choice with cost vs performance, also Trickstuff power at a bit more cost and a bit faster wear but equally as good. Also adding that the Uberbike pads wear rotors quite fast vs the Trickstuff organic.
 
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Ice Tech rotors do help with fade; there was a trail where I would start getting fade pretty much every time I rode down it (160mm F&R, metallic non-finned pads because they weren't an option for first-gen M665 SLX brakes.) Swapped them out with RT81 Ice Tech rotors (again, no fins at that point) when they became A Thing, and fade, while not eliminated completely, was significantly reduced. A bit later I swapped the brakes out for next-gen M666 (fundamentally the same as M785 XT with tiny detail tweaks), and the fade was eliminated.

Later again I replaced one of the RT81s with a finned MT800, and didn't notice any difference, but then I don't push the bike that hard, and by then the section of trail where I did get fade had been closed off .
 
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