The stupid questions thread.

Am I getting reamed by a ribbed 12 incher paying $26 for a bag of 4 chainring bolts.

They are alloy and anodised, not bloody purple though so I don't understand the bent over price, and I want steel!

MTB tax!
 
If I ordered 27.5 inch rims from an eBay shop I fear I may only ever get 26 inch rims delivered...

Screenshot_20170504-121504-360x640.png
 
About to pull the trigger. Does the colour of the fork uppers matter at all?

The fork with the black uppers is $25 cheaper but I'm not convinced they last longer and are more resistant to scratching etc.
 
I'm wishing to light a small fire in my back yard. Not just now but in the near future to cook a few bits of meat on, looking to get things a little smokey. Am I safe to assemble a containment barrier from every day bricks or cinder blocks?
 
Yes, though if the brickwork is wet when you start you will get some interesting noises. Try and keep the temperature under 2000C.
 
Dales Cannon said:
Yes, though if the brickwork is wet when you start you will get some interesting noises. Try and keep the temperature under 2000C.
Click to expand...

Cheers. Sounds like I will need to use a soft wood rather than a hard wood like iron bark to keep the heat down.
 
So I've got a 1x11 SLX setup on my bike, pretty sure it's the M7000. It's got a 28t ring up the front, but it's already too low for me.

Would this 32t ring just bolt straight onto my current cranks, and work fine with the chain which I assume is the Narrow-Wide, or whatever it is?

Looking at this one, and when I install it, do I have to remove the cranks to get the ring off?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/shimano-slx-m7000-11-speed-chainring/rp-prod148224
 
taquar said:
Legend, saves me paying someone else to do it :thumb:

I usually go to the LBS for most things, but it'll be nice to do it myself for once.
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You may have to pull the pedal though, depends on the pedal size. See how you go.
 
I've got some carbon bars on order for the 29er (I wanted to go wider, and CRC were practically throwing them out, so why not?). Will I need to use some of that carbon paste when I bung 'em on my alloy stem, or is that just for assembling carbon to carbon?
 
Spike-X said:
I've got some carbon bars on order for the 29er (I wanted to go wider, and CRC were practically throwing them out, so why not?). Will I need to use some of that carbon paste when I bung 'em on my alloy stem, or is that just for assembling carbon to carbon?
Click to expand...
Good practice to use on stem/bar interface as it reduces the torque needed to keep the bars from slipping.
That said, some bars come with an impregnated coating at the stem interface so paste isn't required.
If you have carbon paste... use it.
 
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