The stupid questions thread.

Z

Zaf

Guest
Zaf said:
Does anyone know of a brand that is producing a 20x110mm Boost hub yet?
Click to expand...
@moorey @pink poodle Soooooo, this question never got answered, but I was looking into it a little more.
GREAT NEWS!!! 20x110 (non boost hubs) are backwards compatible with the new standard. The only change on the Boost hub is that they shove the left side flange out 5mm and the brake rotor with it. A simple spacer and longer bolts will fit the previous 20mm hubs into a fork otherwise.

As for companies producing a hub with the new flanges, the search continues.
 
pink poodle

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
@Zaf I am impressed by your ability to eat this shit up with such enthusiasm and to fuel the innovations. I eagerly await boost pedal axles!
 
Z

Zaf

Guest
@pink poodle I can't hear you over the sound of the racket 15x100mm wheels make in not fitting a 15x110mm standard whilst contemplating why Torque Caps exist, whilst looking at 20mm wheels that will fit in ALL 20mm standards without significant wheel/tension/rebuilding work.

#BoostDH
 
pink poodle

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
I'm too busy riding the standard that worked just fine and you guys are suffering the consequences of marketing and hype induced by the greed of forcing a change onto the market for profiteering under the guise of innovation. It's the slightly wider toothpaste all over again.

20x110 will always be for me. Not because is a clumsy fat arse either!
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
pink poodle said:
I'm too busy riding the standard that worked just fine and you guys are suffering the consequences of marketing and hype induced by the greed of forcing a change onto the market for profiteering under the guise of innovation
Click to expand...
I'm detecting the early stages of retro grouch curmudgeonicity for our Poodle.

Quickly get on a self lubing 12 speed with Super Boost+ before you devolve into hunting for 7 speed and rigid forks in the dark dusty corners of the internet.

Just looking out for you. Thank me later.

Sent from my F5121 using Tapatalk
 
pink poodle

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Mr Crudley said:
I'm detecting the early stages of retro grouch curmudgeonicity for our Poodle.
Click to expand...
Early stages??? I'm advanced! Especially where the suppler boost 20x110 comes in. It just sounds so stupid. But I am pleased to see that 20x110 is making a come back. I feel justified in my lie fuelled disdain for 15mm axles.
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
pink poodle said:
Early stages??? I'm advanced! Especially where the suppler boost 20x110 comes in. It just sounds so stupid. But I am pleased to see that 20x110 is making a come back. I feel justified in my lie fuelled disdain for 15mm axles.
Click to expand...
You need to work more on your grouch. 9mm axles with 135mm hub spacing should be enough for anyone.

Anyhow, I'm keen to see what advances will be inflicted on the unsuspecting and increasingly jaded but humble MTB'er in the coming year. The auto chain luber with dubious claims is an early contender. I wonder if tyre warmers will make a comeback.
 
pink poodle

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Was it Clark's or another shit brand that used to have self lubing chains?

Fuck anyone that runs a 29 inch wheel and a quick release axle!
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Jpez

Jpez

Down on the left!
I bought myself a coil to try real hard be one of the cool kids but found I need a different spring.
Removing the old one wasn’t as easy as I thought as it won’t slip over the mounting hardware. Guess I’m just not that cool spring or no spring.....
786C609F-4276-46DC-BB97-15602C9B7A08.jpeg

Is there an easy way to remove the hardware that doesn’t require a rockshox bushing removal tool as suggested in the manual?
 
Z

Zaf

Guest
@Jpez Two sockets (one larger than the OD of the bushing, one smaller) a small length of all thread, bolts and washers does a good makeshift.
The reducers should pull out with just a firm grip on them though, you usually only need the tool for removal and installation of the bushing itself. Try using a small piece of rubber and some multi grips to get a decent purchase on the them, the outer sleeves will pull off and from there you should find it easy enough to just drift the center part out with a mallet.
 
pink poodle

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
@Jpez you're going to need a vice...or multi grips, or pliers! NOOOOOOOOOOOO! The easy way is to set your vice a little wider than the "reducer". Rest.your shock over the vice (protecting it from metal-metal contact) with one side of the reducer in the gap. Now for hammer + socket piece (probably 8mm) to tap the reducer out of the eyelet, gently. Very gently. This may require 3 hands and take less than a minute of taping.
 
Jpez

Jpez

Down on the left!
Haha. Yep, I had a pair of Multies in my hand before I posted, looked at them, looked at the shiny new paint and thought nup, better seek advice from my more learned burners.

Will give it a crack as you said poodle thanks.
 
Jpez

Jpez

Down on the left!
Zaf said:
@Jpez Two sockets (one larger than the OD of the bushing, one smaller) a small length of all thread, bolts and washers does a good makeshift.
The reducers should pull out with just a firm grip on them though, you usually only need the tool for removal and installation of the bushing itself. Try using a small piece of rubber and some multi grips to get a decent purchase on the them, the outer sleeves will pull off and from there you should find it easy enough to just drift the center part out with a mallet.
Click to expand...
Thanks Zaf.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zaf
moorey

moorey

call me Mia
D6A36F87-9ADA-499A-BD61-F9E76398D3B5.jpeg
A6ABDBE2-594F-463B-9DE1-69D8462885E7.jpeg
41167F4A-606F-45EA-98DD-EE298A6D9679.jpeg
FED65813-9D64-47B6-BE5E-68657C43991F.jpeg
41167F4A-606F-45EA-98DD-EE298A6D9679.jpeg
FED65813-9D64-47B6-BE5E-68657C43991F.jpeg
Help me out here...is it Uber wanky to pay a fortune for a new guitar that has made to look like it’s got cred?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top