The stupid questions thread.

ashes_mtb

ashes_mtb

Has preferences
First time tubeless install yesterday. Went to.check pressure this morning and a little sealant spat out the valve. Valve was at the top all night.

Is that normal and should I be worried about it clogging up the pressure gauge?
 
Cardy George

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
ashes_mtb said:
First time tubeless install yesterday. Went to.check pressure this morning and a little sealant spat out the valve. Valve was at the top all night.

Is that normal and should I be worried about it clogging up the pressure gauge?
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The valve was pointing down and only a spot came out? It was probably just the sealant that had coated the inside of the valve stem. Nuthin to worry about
 
fatboyonabike

fatboyonabike

Captain oblivious
the shimano rings have a single gap in the notches, silly me for assuming that they wouldn't be compatible (just like everything else)
so how many types are there?..is it just like shown above plus SRAM 3 bolt direct mount, or are there others
 
S

Scotty675

Cable thief
fatboyonabike said:
the shimano rings have a single gap in the notches, silly me for assuming that they wouldn't be compatible (just like everything else)
so how many types are there?..is it just like shown above plus SRAM 3 bolt direct mount, or are there others
Click to expand...
Not sure about SCAM cranks and the chainring set ups.
I had no intention of going shimano 12 speed but garbaruk now do an 11-52 cassette for hg driver so pulled the trigger.
 
ashes_mtb

ashes_mtb

Has preferences
Just installed a Brand-X dropper. Can I clamp the workstand to the top part of the dropper post, or can that damage it?
 
The Duckmeister

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Never clamp a dropper by the upper bit; the small diameter tube is too susceptible to being bent if there is any torsion on the post from the bike not being exactly balanced. Bend the upper tube and the post is fucked. Plus most workstand clamps won't close down that small to grip. If you have to clamp by the post, use the lower bit because it's bigger diameter and therefore stiffer. If that means raising the post to get enough to grab onto. mark your height with a wrap of tape at the edge of the frame tube so you have an easy reference to drop back to once the work is done.
 
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moorey

moorey

call me Mia
The Duckmeister said:
Never clamp a dropper by the upper bit; the small diameter tube is too susceptible to being bent if there is any torsion on the post from the bike not being exactly balanced. Bend the upper tube and the post is fucked. Plus most workstand clamps won't close down that small to grip. If you have to clamp by the post, use the lower bit because it's bigger diameter and therefore stiffer. If that means raising the post to get enough to grab onto. mark your height with a wrap of tape at the edge of the frame tube so you have an easy reference to drop back to once the work is done.
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Or ride alloy bikes and clamp the frames carefree.

TBH, I’m sure a fat arse on a raised dropper exerts more torsional force than the weight of a bike.

I still never do it.
 
The Duckmeister

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
I don't like clamping any bike by the seatpost, dropper or not; the bloody thing swings around too much when you're trying to work on it. Sometimes there's no other way though.
 
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