The stupid questions thread.

Brains Trust.

Never had to deal with this before because every bike has just worked.

Sunrace 12sp cassette, XT chain, XTR derailleur.

Goes into larger cogs no wukkas, refuses point blank to come off 1st gear, but then for the rest of the cassette the cable is too loose and will double shift.

I've had a bit of a play with the B-screw, tweaked the cable tension. That's about it.
It might be worth replacing the cables, sometimes they slightly bind enough to resist the spring on the derailleur.
 
Brains Trust.

Never had to deal with this before because every bike has just worked.

Sunrace 12sp cassette, XT chain, XTR derailleur.

Goes into larger cogs no wukkas, refuses point blank to come off 1st gear, but then for the rest of the cassette the cable is too loose and will double shift.

I've had a bit of a play with the B-screw, tweaked the cable tension. That's about it.
Hanger straight? Long or short cage rear mech? Had a 51 before? Old bike I ended up with a goat link to allow the XTR to sit correctly for the big cassette.
 
Hanger straight? Long or short cage rear mech? Had a 51 before? Old bike I ended up with a goat link to allow the XTR to sit correctly for the big cassette.
Had a 51t XTR on it before, and was shifting fine other than the munted 1st 2nd 3rd cogs. The Sunrace cassette is the only different piece of the puzzle. Could just be the shimano chain doesn't like it.

I'll keep playing with the b-screw and see what happens.
 
The Sunrace cassette is the only different piece of the puzzle.

Different levels of Sunrace cassettes, if its a lower level without the lifter sipes on the big ring, I would be looking at the shifter housing and cable. It would have worked alright with a Shimano but may not be agreeing with the Sunrace.

Its obvious the spring tension is ok on the XTR derailleur as it was working and the XT chain is similar/same shape to the removed XTR chain.

Has to be cable resistance and a stall to move from ring 1.

Fckn 12spd, its the most pernickety drivetrain ever made, from all manufacturers.
 
Different levels of Sunrace cassettes, if its a lower level without the lifter sipes on the big ring, I would be looking at the shifter housing and cable. It would have worked alright with a Shimano but may not be agreeing with the Sunrace.

Its obvious the spring tension is ok on the XTR derailleur as it was working and the XT chain is similar/same shape to the removed XTR chain.

Has to be cable resistance and a stall to move from ring 1.

Fckn 12spd, its the most pernickety drivetrain ever made, from all manufacturers.
10 speed master race.

Sent from my 24069PC21G using Tapatalk
 
Brains Trust.

Never had to deal with this before because every bike has just worked.

Sunrace 12sp cassette, XT chain, XTR derailleur.

Goes into larger cogs no wukkas, refuses point blank to come off 1st gear, but then for the rest of the cassette the cable is too loose and will double shift.

I've had a bit of a play with the B-screw, tweaked the cable tension. That's about it.
Did you do this dance and pray to the gods of clean shifting and COTF respectively....
scooby-doo-witch-doctor.gif
 
Last edited:
My house has eaves all around it. In one corner of the yard I would like to add a single-car garage, but for the garage to be decent-sized (ie: able to fit a large car in it lengthwise) the eaves of the house would prevent moving the front of the garage coming forward enough. The block is small, so no room to move the garage further back or away from the side of the house. Roof is too low to build under, and proposed garage would be up against, but outside the exterior walls of the house. Ideally the garage roof would be quite a bit higher than the house as I would like to build it canted to take advantage of potential solar-panel real estate, so ...

How would a builder/plumber make such a thing happen without having water flood into the roof everytime it rains? I feel like it should be doable, but can't visualise it in my brain... Blue outline is where I'd like to place the garage, and black lines are the roof layout, and blue-filled area is where existing roof would need to be removed and modified for proper drainage.

1737940186273.png


(PS: Yes, the house is tiny. But it fits all one of me adequately and avoids the body-corporate issues of a typical unit.... Can't build on the other side of the house despite oodles more room due to an sewerage easement.)
 
My house has eaves all around it. In one corner of the yard I would like to add a single-car garage, but for the garage to be decent-sized (ie: able to fit a large car in it lengthwise) the eaves of the house would prevent moving the front of the garage coming forward enough. The block is small, so no room to move the garage further back or away from the side of the house. Roof is too low to build under, and proposed garage would be up against, but outside the exterior walls of the house. Ideally the garage roof would be quite a bit higher than the house as I would like to build it canted to take advantage of potential solar-panel real estate, so ...

How would a builder/plumber make such a thing happen without having water flood into the roof everytime it rains? I feel like it should be doable, but can't visualise it in my brain... Blue outline is where I'd like to place the garage, and black lines are the roof layout, and blue-filled area is where existing roof would need to be removed and modified for proper drainage.

View attachment 414507

(PS: Yes, the house is tiny. But it fits all one of me adequately and avoids the body-corporate issues of a typical unit.... Can't build on the other side of the house despite oodles more room due to an sewerage easement.)
What's the clearance under the eaves? What height do you need the garage to be?
 
My house has eaves all around it. In one corner of the yard I would like to add a single-car garage, but for the garage to be decent-sized (ie: able to fit a large car in it lengthwise) the eaves of the house would prevent moving the front of the garage coming forward enough. The block is small, so no room to move the garage further back or away from the side of the house. Roof is too low to build under, and proposed garage would be up against, but outside the exterior walls of the house. Ideally the garage roof would be quite a bit higher than the house as I would like to build it canted to take advantage of potential solar-panel real estate, so ...

How would a builder/plumber make such a thing happen without having water flood into the roof everytime it rains? I feel like it should be doable, but can't visualise it in my brain... Blue outline is where I'd like to place the garage, and black lines are the roof layout, and blue-filled area is where existing roof would need to be removed and modified for proper drainage.

View attachment 414507

(PS: Yes, the house is tiny. But it fits all one of me adequately and avoids the body-corporate issues of a typical unit.... Can't build on the other side of the house despite oodles more room due to an sewerage easement.)
You'll need a skillion roof of some type otherwise you'll end up with a dog's breakfast, and all your leaves and crap will be caught between the two roofs.
 
You'll need a skillion roof of some type otherwise you'll end up with a dog's breakfast, and all your leaves and crap will be caught between the two roofs.
Skillion roof would be the easy bit, but it doesn't mean I can send walls through where the existing roof is currently.

@indica - not really. The aim would be to have something enclosed. I have a long/narrow carport on the side of the house already.

I hoped to put a garage on the other side of the house, but the local water authority won't allow it. Pretty much working out if I stay in this place or move.
 
What's the clearance under the eaves? What height do you need the garage to be?
Eaves are about ~2250mm from the ground, and 600mm to the outside of the fascia board/trim (ie: excluding the gutters). Probably 3-3.5m tall at the house side. Not aiming to stick a hoist in or anything like that...
 
Yeah without a garage
Skillion roof would be the easy bit, but it doesn't mean I can send walls through where the existing roof is currently.

@indica - not really. The aim would be to have something enclosed. I have a long/narrow carport on the side of the house already.

I hoped to put a garage on the other side of the house, but the local water authority won't allow it. Pretty much working out if I stay in this place or move.
Yeah without a garage I'd fuck off too. 🤪 :cool: :)
 
If the garage walls are going to be higher than the existing roof line.
Box gutter horizontal in red discharging to flashings in yellow on the roof pitch.
Not ideal.
Or if the existing is a pretty low pitch fill the triangle in on the existing roof where the box gutter is and effectively creating a half gable to a ridge against the garage wall looking from the bottom of the drawing.

If it was a carport (no sides) you could support that section of the carport beam above the existing roof via steel post through the existing roof
1000000628.jpg
 
Back
Top