rockmoose
his flabber is totally gastered
I would have thought he needs to up his hydration levels a touch.
The Woodwork thread
- Thread starter ausdb
- Start date
That too
You could try soaking it in water for a few hours first
Freediver
I can go full Karen
Where do you find ironbark studs in Melbourne? 100 to 120 years ago it was nearly all messmate and mountain ash from this side of the divide as far as I knew.
I'd say it's OB hardwood so could be a variety of things. There's a variety across Melbourne depending on age and location.
Old dry iron bark is the devils work, it is very hard on tools and will reduce you cut depths and feed rates. Lovely timber but brutal on tools.
Old dry iron bark is the devils work, it is very hard on tools and will reduce you cut depths and feed rates. Lovely timber but brutal on tools.
Freediver
I can go full Karen
Definitely would have been sold as OB when it was first used. My understanding is the ironbark was used more for things like post and rail fencing, railway sleepers, mine supports and piers. The kind of things where it was used in big dimensions where it could be split rather than cut. Cuttting up timber like ironbark before tool steel had been worked out would have been a nightmare.
I think @Jpez works a bit with reclaimed timber, he might know a bit more about species used as ordinary builders.
ausdb
Being who he is
It's probably a lot like the old jarrah house timbers over here. When the house was built it was still a bit green so cut and nailed relatively easy. Roll on a hundred years and it's a different story.
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
It's truly impossible to tell but I would say that's messmate. And it really doesn't matter cause any heavy, well seasoned euc is hard on the tools. I've got quite a number of big chunks of narrow leaf ironbark that were taken out of the Pilliga in the 1980s.
For something like that round here, it gets a wash with a pressure washer then a blast with the air compressor in the first instance. Then I cut it on one face with the table saw inside an aluminium right angle jig. The thicknesser gets the other face. Then repeat for the other faces.
Jpez
Down on the left!
I’ve never seen Iron Bark in smaller sections like that at the timber suppliers I use. Only bigger stuff like old bridge beams, warehouse trusses and old telegraph poles.
But in my chippie days of doing renos and extension’s did come across old OB framing that well could have been Ironbark but I kinda doubt it.
Here’s some 300x300 x 4.8 and some 250x100 recycled red Ironbark I used for a pergola. Fucking stuff Is making my back hurt just looking at the photos. The tools I used to cut and drill it still hate me.
But in my chippie days of doing renos and extension’s did come across old OB framing that well could have been Ironbark but I kinda doubt it.
Here’s some 300x300 x 4.8 and some 250x100 recycled red Ironbark I used for a pergola. Fucking stuff Is making my back hurt just looking at the photos. The tools I used to cut and drill it still hate me.
link1896
Mr Greenfield
It was a mate of my wife’s who is a timber grader who told me this was ironbark, species identification isn’t my strong suit, I’ve blindly followed her suggestion, but as everyone is saying, Ironbark’s naturally occurring locations don’t make sense for house framing usage in Melbourne 80-120 years ago.
Still hard as fuck, whatever it is. A bugle head batten screw will snap if you don’t drill a 5mm pilot hole, even 5mm cobalt bits hate it. This cross section sample of collapse is probably the worse case I’ve seen. Dimensions are roughly 95-100 x 50-55mm, from floor joists locations I believe. I’ll weigh a long piece to get an idea of density.
Still hard as fuck, whatever it is. A bugle head batten screw will snap if you don’t drill a 5mm pilot hole, even 5mm cobalt bits hate it. This cross section sample of collapse is probably the worse case I’ve seen. Dimensions are roughly 95-100 x 50-55mm, from floor joists locations I believe. I’ll weigh a long piece to get an idea of density.
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
Pretty much describes a lot of old euc timber. It doesn't have to be old to snap a batten screw...my opinion of them has declined over the last fifteen years. I think they are only good for holding down mgp10 these days.
Litenbror
Eats Squid
It's taken longer to get to here than I hoped but legs are on and it's time to start finishing the top. Also found out the slab is Blakely's redgum not blackbutt.
en.m.wikipedia.org
Eucalyptus blakelyi - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
I assume you're going to cut them to match the rectangle opening, but it would also look cool if you traced the shape, routed the surface of the table so they sit flush and keep the rough edges. Would match well with the natural edges along the side of the table IMO.
Litenbror
Eats Squid
I've actually glued them to a piece of marine ply that sits in the opening. I'm going to keep them raised that way when having big meals hot dishes can be put on it without damaging the table.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
I figured, but I would still recess it about 2/3rds the width of the tile. I would make any other inserts fit the recess!
Realistically though, I have made zero tables - so you're one-up (at least) on me.
Litenbror
Eats Squid
This is only 2 for me so I think you have time to catch upI figured, but I would still recess it about 2/3rds the width of the tile. I would make any other inserts fit the recess!
Realistically though, I have made zero tables - so you're one-up (at least) on me.