There's going to be more than one..

[The Reverend]

They replaced all the seals, the bearings and linkage.
Apparently it was the seals that caused the problem.

Don't ask me how or why.. it just worked. I don't understand it and probably never will.

NOW the bike feels amazing both uphill and downhill.

 

[The Reverend]

I know right? All the build up but no secret herbs and spices!

Sorry, I should have included this. Who doesn't love a little suspense though?

 

[shiny]

They replaced all the seals, the bearings and linkage.
Apparently it was the seals that caused the problem.

Don't ask me how or why.. it just worked. I don't understand it and probably never will.

NOW the bike feels amazing both uphill and downhill.

Interesting. Maybe drag in the seals and not enough force going up for the rear to move as it should. Good to hear it’s working for you!

 

[Ultra Lord]

They replaced all the seals, the bearings and linkage.
Apparently it was the seals that caused the problem.

Don't ask me how or why.. it just worked. I don't understand it and probably never will.

NOW the bike feels amazing both uphill and downhill.

Seals add drag.
Fixed some bearings that hadn’t been squared to the shaft enough recently, 0.2mm later on a 150mm SNL bearing and bearing temp dropped 30 degrees, and no more squeal.

All that added drag might’ve added too much static friction and made it impossible to get a happy medium with the suspension?

 

[ozzybmx]

Theres 0.13mm difference on the shafts of my 2 idlers, one is 16.90mm and 16.95mm and the other is 17.01mm and 17.03mm, where the 6803 2RS bearings actually stretch the casing to fit on the 17.01/17.03mm and the bearing instantly feels notchy.

At 16.90mm the bearing nearly falls off and 16.95mm is just lovely.

Interestingly the 16.90mm shaft gets dirt in around it and starts creaking about every 100km.

Ideally I need the idler 16.95mm diameter on both bearing shaft surfaces where the bearing fits to give myself a chance at a super free spinning, creak free idler.

I have not spoken to Ben since getting my frame AND I bought a spare idler (that is out of spec).

Its taken a while but I may have found the reason behind his slow spinning idlers, thats even after removing the seals.

I reckon I'll contact him this week when things calm down... way too much shit going on for an email exchange.

 

[Ultra Lord]

0.05 on machined bearing surface is a fucken huge difference.

Edit:
Misread. 0.13mm difference may as well be a builders tolerance. Fuck me the machinist just phoned it in that day.
“Index tip? Nah fuck em. She’ll be good for another 20 parts”

 

[The Reverend]

Thanks all. @Ultra Lord, @shiny, I get how out of spec or damaged seals add drag, but I'd have thought less drag = a more active rear which would mean more bobbing and less efficient climbing. Shows how little I know eh?

 

[ozzybmx]

0.05 on machined bearing surface is a fucken huge difference.

Edit:
Misread. 0.13mm difference may as well be a builders tolerance. Fuck me the machinist just phoned it in that day.
“Index tip? Nah fuck em. She’ll be good for another 20 parts”

Yeah it started creaking last weekend for the 3rd time so I decided to have a play about with the 2 idlers.

I noticed the looseness and tightness on the shafts so stuck a Vernier on them. The original SS bearing were notchy and super hard to get off.
When I got them off they were smooth as ! The thin 17mm casing is being stretched to accommodate the out of spec shaft and instantly making it notchy.

I'll make him up a wee video and send it to him later in the week.

Surely he must know what is making his idlers draggy by now.

 

[Ultra Lord]

Thanks all. @Ultra Lord, @shiny, I get how out of spec or damaged seals add drag, but I'd have thought less drag = a more active rear which would mean more bobbing and less efficient climbing. Shows how little I know eh?

Could be out of spec the other way. A little too much side loading on the bearings and maybe some seals unable to seat properly.