Threaded bottom bracket in press fit.

wkkie

It's Not Easy Being Green
Wheels mfg, this one. If that didn't work, I was considering getting threads for a t47 BB cut into the frame.
For reference I also tried a SRAM plastic cup model BB and the non threaded wheels mfg bracket as well. These were all assembled scrupulously following instructions, but the grease or antiseize moved and allowed the creak to resurface within hours or weeks each time.
Yep, I have my eye on that one. Did you go for the abec bearings or the standards?

I'm not a bearing wizard, so would it be worth it for the abec?

And did you get them direct from wheels or local?
 

Binaural

Eats Squid
I bought one from a LBS and the other direct from wheels mfg IIRC.

Looking at the pictures, I have the angular bearing type. As it happens I used to be a bearing expert (designed an offshore wind turbine condition monitoring system), so on that basis I can say either should last ages provided you install them correctly, but the angular ball bearings are likely to last longer in a MTB application provided your crank design allows you to get quite a bit of axial tension. If you're using a wave washer it should be almost flat when using axial bearings.
 

marc_rebel

Cannon Fodder
Only good results with the WheelsMFG thread-together BB, so far. Cured a creak in a press-fit BB92 which drove me nuts...
Things to look out for: since the outer diameter of the shell is larger than the tube around the axle (Shimano BB), I had to shorten the bolt that holds the cap in place shielding the shift cable.
Also, I found that replacement ACBs (angular contact bearings) are cheaper through an Oz distributer (DIYMTB) than going through WMFG (I changed the bearings in a 'standard' BB to ACBs) in one of my frames.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Only good for BB30 frames though, no good for 92mm press-fit.

Also, Boost is irrelevant as far as bottom bracket goes; the offset of the chainring/s on the crank is where the difference lies.
 

stirk

Burner
Hey folks, any long term review for the wM threaded bb92? I'm sick of my bike creaking after a short time with the plastic Shimano brackets and like the WM solution. My only concern is what @Binaural describes with out of round bore. After 5 years pushing a bike with slightly moving and creaking BB a creaking threaded BB with eat the sides of the frame won't it?
 

DMan

shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
@DMan read it, the usual 90% shit talking and 10% positive comments!

I suppose the plastic BB would wear not the frame.
That was my thought. Plus it would be easier to get in being a little malleable? But in saying all that I'm still going to try the Wheels one when I'm ready.
 

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
Hey folks, any long term review for the wM threaded bb92? I'm sick of my bike creaking after a short time with the plastic Shimano brackets and like the WM solution. My only concern is what @Binaural describes with out of round bore. After 5 years pushing a bike with slightly moving and creaking BB a creaking threaded BB with eat the sides of the frame won't it?
Mine is still working nearly two years down the trail. Though to be fair I have not put a lot of hours on it in the last twelve months. However, I have put quite a bit into the BB30 version and it's older...still rock solid and quiet. Recently checked the bearings too as part of a crank set upgrade...still smooth. Easy to replace though if need be.

I reckon you'll be fine even in the unlikely event your BB shell is demonstrably out of round...
 

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
I put 10,000km on a second hand WM BB, that already had a notchy bearing when it went in. The only noise coming out of it was from the bearings themselves, and even then I just popped the covers and re-greased. Not a creak to be heard from the frame.

Definitely invest in the tool though, it's a different size to a 'standard' BB tool, and I completely munted the teeth from not using one. But hey, it was cheap and it proved the concept. I had a plastic BB put in the new frame, but I will be buying a new WM BB to go in the new frame in the new year.

The added bonus is being able to remove one half without bashing the fuck out of your pride and joy. Like I had to. When the Di2 gets unplugged. Four times. In a freaking month.
 

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
Sounds like time to buy a Ghost Lector and come back to cabled life.
I said it after two weeks, and I stand by it 18 months later, it wouldn't be a deal breaker if Di2 wasn't on the next bike. I'm very happy I have it, I'm glad I've experienced it but after riding it for 18 months I'm starting to look at it from a long term point of view, and like anything it showing signs of use. Problem is it's the wires that are causing the most trouble, mainly breaking from vibration or my clumsiness, and doing anything with them requires the BB to come out. I'll put longer ones in so the junction box is in a more accessible place down the track. Mechanically it's been aces, little niggles, but nothing you wouldn't expect from a high-mileage groupset.
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
I put 10,000km on a second hand WM BB, that already had a notchy bearing when it went in. The only noise coming out of it was from the bearings themselves, and even then I just popped the covers and re-greased. Not a creak to be heard from the frame.

Definitely invest in the tool though, it's a different size to a 'standard' BB tool, and I completely munted the teeth from not using one. But hey, it was cheap and it proved the concept. I had a plastic BB put in the new frame, but I will be buying a new WM BB to go in the new frame in the new year.

The added bonus is being able to remove one half without bashing the fuck out of your pride and joy. Like I had to. When the Di2 gets unplugged. Four times. In a freaking month.
Electrics and vibrations, oh what joy to be found. Seen enough in motor cars and promised myself that it will never be a thing on any of my bikes until I'm forced to. :)
 
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