Tubeless repair

R

RangaWal

Likes Bikes
So, I tried reading the thread in the sticky, but at 81 pages, got a bit overwhelmed. My 29er front tubeless tyre has a slow leak. I suspect it's the valve core (it's a bit bent), but haven't really proven this theory.

I tried removing the tyre, and adding slime, then putting the tyre back on. Inflating it with an air compressor was a pain, but I eventually got it inflated. However, it's gone down again over some hours. I believe I might need new rim tape at least.

I was researching around, and came across Stans NoTubes rim strips (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/stans-no-tubes-all-mountain-29er-rim-strip/rp-prod38846 or http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/stans-no-tubes-xc-29er-rim-strip/rp-prod116736 - no idea what the difference is!).

Is it as simple as installing them, then slime, then inflation?

On the other hand, I'm tempted to just go buy a tube. I don't plan to do any hardcore riding, and maybe this is just easier.
 
BT180

BT180

Max Pfaff
Might be easiest to replace the valve, if that's what you suspect it is. They're cheaper than chips on eBay.
 
R

RangaWal

Likes Bikes
BT180 said:
Might be easiest to replace the valve, if that's what you suspect it is. They're cheaper than chips on eBay.
Click to expand...
Maybe you're right. I just picked the bike up from the suspension service joint (that's another story), and inflated it right away without trouble. I'll see how long it takes to go down.
 
Dozer

Dozer

Heavy machinery.
Staff member
Its frustrating at first but once tubeless is sorted then you'll be chuffed.
I'll give you the quick version of what I do.
-Take tyre off, remove valve core and remove rim strip from rim
-Clean the surface of the rim where the rim tape sits thoroughly. Go metho, turps, isopropyl alcohol if you have it. Just make sure that rim surface is sparkling.
-I found Stans rim tape to be shit, I'd avoid it. I use Gorilla tape ( https://www.bunnings.com.au/gorilla-32m-black-cloth-tape_p1662688 )
-Measure your rim width where the tape will sit then run your shape kn=ife along the roll of Gorilla tape evenly while its still rolled up so you get a consistent cut.
-Start the tape a few inches from the valve stem hole, push the tape down in the center of the rim as you gradually run the tape around your rim. If you see a small air bubble appear just unstick the tape and go again.
-Finish the tape a few inches the other side of the valve stem hole.
-Grab a clean rag and thumb the tape down super firm on the rim, go around it a fair few times to make sure its stuck down firmly.
-Poke a nail through the tape where the valve stem will go then poke the valve stem through, that way you know its centered and you haven't got a huge hole that may leak air past the rubber around the valve stem. Tighten that valve stem with pliers too, that'll make sure you get a good firm coverage inside between the rubber and the tape.
-Put your tyre on and pump it up to seat one side of the bead. Don't put the sealant in yet, just seat at least one side of the tyre. If it is tricky to seat, run a rope around the face of the tyre so it pushes the bead towards the rim, that helps for sure. I do this with new tyres so I'm sure it holds air before I put sealant all over it.
-Put 40 PSI in it, bounce it around a bit and listen for any small leaks. If no leaks appear then either pop one side of the tyre off to put the sealant in or better yet, get a syringe that injects the sealant through the valve stem. You can remove the valve core with a small fitting them put your sealant in without taking the tyre off.
-Chuck your sealnt in, reseat the tyre then go for 40PSI again.
-roll the wheel around so the sealant covers every face of the tyre inside and the rim, imagine you want the sealant inside covering every face so roll it slowly every which way.
-If you have a big space with clear water in it you can hold the wheel in it to see if any bubbles appear but its not really that accurate. If done right and with a tubeless ready tyre, that method of mine works every day of the week.
-Leave the tyre pumped up at least overnight and check it the next day, you'll know if it worked by then. ;)
 
tkdbboy

tkdbboy

Likes Dirt
Potential quick diagnosis:
Spray soapy water over the rim, tyre and valve.
Inflate to like 35psi.
Wait for bubbles. Should point to your issue spot then fix it accordingly.


If there's no bubbles then buy a new bike ... or do what @Dozer said
 
beeb

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
What was difficult about inflating it with a compressor? Sometimes the valves get gunked up from the tyre sealant, which will make them both difficult to fill and can create a slow leak.
 
Oddjob

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
tkdbboy said:
Potential quick diagnosis:
Spray soapy water over the rim, tyre and valve.
Inflate to like 35psi.
Wait for bubbles. Should point to your issue spot then fix it accordingly.


If there's no bubbles then buy a new bike ... or do what @Dozer said
Click to expand...
+1 always start diagnosis with this. I've found some tyres just leak like sieves and need to be pumped up a few times while the tyre rests on its side to let the sealant do its work.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
R

RangaWal

Likes Bikes
beeb said:
What was difficult about inflating it with a compressor?
Click to expand...
At first, the tyre didn't want to lock on the bead - air just rushed out around the sides. I was wondering maybe the rim was the blame. On trying again, it suddenly inflated no problems.
 
R

RangaWal

Likes Bikes
So, the soapy water worked wonders. At first I had a bead leak, so I scrubbed all the old sealant off, and cleaned out the inside of the rim - realising there was no thread tape at all. I also noticed 2 tiny drilled holes (they looked factory) on the sidewall of the rim, on the opposite side of the rim to the valve. When inflating the tyre, naturally air pissed out of them, and also where one of the spokes joined the rim. The holes on the side don't go through to the air cavity of the tyre, so I assume air must be getting into the rim cavity somehow (possibly/probably due to no rim tape), to escape out of these side holes and spoke area.
 
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The Duckmeister

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Flow-Rider said:
You don't need to buy the proper rim tape, a lot of us here are using this stuff blue-outdoor-long-life-masking-tape.
Just make sure you do 2 wraps.
Click to expand...
Bear Tape is so awesome you only need a single wrap. :)

Oddjob said:
+1 always start diagnosis with this. I've found some tyres just leak like sieves and need to be pumped up a few times while the tyre rests on its side to let the sealant do its work.
Click to expand...
Not Schwalbe by chance? I've seen more airtight flyscreens.
 
Oddjob

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
The Duckmeister said:
Bear Tape is so awesome you only need a single wrap. :)


Not Schwalbe by chance? I've seen more airtight flyscreens.
Click to expand...
Love bear tape. Sooo good.

Nope Specialized and Contis. Fuck me dead Contis are bad.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
W

Wolf Lyle

Cannon Fodder
Gorilla tape for the win! I’ve done countless tubeless conversations with zero issues!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The Duckmeister

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Depends on the setup. Full UST spec tyres & rims in theory don't need sealant because the tyres have an airtight membrane incorporated in the casing. However it is still wise to use sealant to deal with any small punctures.

"Tubeless Ready" tyres don't have the membrane, so are a lot more porous and need sealant to stop the air falling out.
 
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