Tubeless repair

nexusfish

El Mariachi
ill add that going for a ride can help seat the tyre and stop those slow leaks. just pump it to 20- 25psi so it can squirm around a bit. has worked for a lot of my fresh tyer changes with slow leaks.
 

foxpuppet

Eats Squid
Agree with everything you said except for this. If you’ve done everything else right you only need a finger tight valve and in fact you can create a leak path by over tightening and damaging the rubber on the valve. It’ll also save you a shit load of frustration if you need to remove the valve core with your hands trail side to fit a tube
Yep this, pays to pull your valve stem apart every now and then and clean it out..
The o-ring is super tiny in there.


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Bryce88

Likes Dirt
I'm in a similar situation, but my rims do hold air well. That is until pressure is put on the valve, when that happens air leaks out from the gap between valve and rim. From what I google this seems comes down to a poor tape job. Sound right? The valves are Orange seal.

I've played with how tight/loose I leave the nut on the valve but still it leaks when valve is moved around. I've got enough tape to have another go and I've also got gorilla tape, but my only concern is my spokes are off center which makes it hard to tape up without getting creases. Any suggestions? Maybe wrap twice in the Orange seal tape, but it's still hard to get that smooth seal.
 

teK--

Eats Squid
I'm in a similar situation, but my rims do hold air well. That is until pressure is put on the valve, when that happens air leaks out from the gap between valve and rim. From what I google this seems comes down to a poor tape job. Sound right? The valves are Orange seal.

I've played with how tight/loose I leave the nut on the valve but still it leaks when valve is moved around. I've got enough tape to have another go and I've also got gorilla tape, but my only concern is my spokes are off center which makes it hard to tape up without getting creases. Any suggestions? Maybe wrap twice in the Orange seal tape, but it's still hard to get that smooth seal.
Assuming the valve isn't damaged, it sounds like the shape of the valve base doesn't match the shape of your rim bed... DT swiss valves a very good they have a slightly curved half-moon shape that suits the majority of rims out there.
 

Bryce88

Likes Dirt
Assuming the valve isn't damaged, it sounds like the shape of the valve base doesn't match the shape of your rim bed... DT swiss valves a very good they have a slightly curved half-moon shape that suits the majority of rims out there.
The orange seal ones kinda look dodgy and ghetto and when i installed them i couldnt work out how the hell they were gonna get a nice seal. I might buy some new valves and start from scratch.

I still need to work out how to tape up properly with the off centered spokes. I cant put the tape down the centre of the rim because if I did that the tape probably wouldnt even cover the spoke holes.
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
I had problems for the first time with leaking valves on a pair of spank spike rims with the reverse shaped rim bed. I tightened the valve a bit more than usually, added some glitter to sealant and it sealed up fine. You might need wider rim tape if it doesn't cover most of the rim.
 

teK--

Eats Squid
The orange seal ones kinda look dodgy and ghetto and when i installed them i couldnt work out how the hell they were gonna get a nice seal. I might buy some new valves and start from scratch.

I still need to work out how to tape up properly with the off centered spokes. I cant put the tape down the centre of the rim because if I did that the tape probably wouldnt even cover the spoke holes.
You need a tape that is slightly wider than the width of the rim, and tape slightly up the sidewall of the rim so that the tyre bead doesn't pull across the edge of the tape whenever you remove the tyres. Also the pressure of the bead along the tape will help it stay in place for a long time.

Or if you only have a narrower tape, then start on one side and do one full lap then pull it towards the other side of the rim and complete another lap; all in one continuous piece of tape. Make sure the 2 layers don't overlap over the spoke holes; if they do then you need a wider tape.

Like this: 25mm tape in a 30mm rim.

20150719_160505.jpg
 

Bryce88

Likes Dirt
@teK-- I think thats half the problem - tapes too narrow. I will try two laps (one each side) - and maybe a layer of cloth tape down the centre afterwards for good measure.
 

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
Try putting an inflated tyre and tube on it for 24 hours to firmly push the tape down onto the rim
 

Bryce88

Likes Dirt
Try putting an inflated tyre and tube on it for 24 hours to firmly push the tape down onto the rim
That's another good idea. I'm gonna try and re-use the sealant though, so might have to give the tyres a super good clean first if I do that.
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
@teK-- I think thats half the problem - tapes too narrow. I will try two laps (one each side) - and maybe a layer of cloth tape down the centre afterwards for good measure.
I've tried using rim tape side by side, it's not the best practise as the sealant can get under it.
 
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Bryce88

Likes Dirt
I've tried using rim tape side by side, it's not the best practise as it the sealant can get under it.
What if I use the 24mm Orange seal tape I've got to tape side by side and then run 36mm cloth tape right down the center of the rim?

My spokes are off center (I dunno why), so I'm thinking tape that side first, then come back and tape the other side, then use some 36mm cloth tape and run down the center of the rim to cover the join. I dunno... just thinking out loud. Going to by some new valves soon too.
 

teK--

Eats Squid
Try putting an inflated tyre and tube on it for 24 hours to firmly push the tape down onto the rim
Yep I always do this. The adhesive is pressure sensitive most of the time and that is the best way to set it.

The bonus is you only pop one side of the tyre off to remove the tube, then you are already halfway there to seat any tubeless tyres that are difficult to pop.
 

teK--

Eats Squid
@teK-- I think thats half the problem - tapes too narrow. I will try two laps (one each side) - and maybe a layer of cloth tape down the centre afterwards for good measure.
Put the cloth tape down first, and then the plastic tape over top in that case.
 

teK--

Eats Squid
I've tried using rim tape side by side, it's not the best practise as it the sealant can get under it.
That wheel I posted had been taped for over 2 years and 4-5 tyre changes until I cracked the rim; tape was still mint!

Tesa 4289 which is the same stuff as Stans but only $25 for a 60metre roll.
 

PJO

in me vL comy
Just be aware that the cloth tape may make it harder to get your tyres on the rims, the thicker you make the rim bed in the middle the harder it will be get a tyre on.
I've been using the Bear outdoor masking tape (been recommended on rotorburn many times) without any issues even on 29mm internal width rims, it is only 25mm width but I do two wraps just like the @teK-- pointed out above.
I also inflate to 50psi with a tube in to seat the tape overnight before using it with sealant.
 

Bryce88

Likes Dirt
Just be aware that the cloth tape may make it harder to get your tyres on the rims, the thicker you make the rim bed in the middle the harder it will be get a tyre on.
I've been using the Bear outdoor masking tape (been recommended on rotorburn many times) without any issues even on 29mm internal width rims, it is only 25mm width but I do two wraps just like the @teK-- pointed out above.
I also inflate to 50psi with a tube in to seat the tape overnight before using it with sealant.
I didnt use cloth tape in the end, I bought the pvc tape as people suggested. I also tried to pump the tubesup and leave them in for a day as suggested but stuffed if I could get the tyres on without damaging the tape... so I gave up on that. Both wheels are currently holding pressure with just air and no sealant at the moment so thats a good sign I guess.
 
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