Tyre Choice

[M4RT0]

Hey Guys,

Looking to get some opinions on tyre choices - mostly about the different ply.

Currently using the Specialized Butcher DH that came on my Demo, but they're starting to look a bit shabby. And at $90 a tyre, probably could get something as good for cheaper?
I'm thinking of getting some Maxxis - either the Minions DHF/DHR or even the shorty is looking pretty good. The Minions Front are very similar to the Butcher DH I have now and feel pretty good as an all rounder (I only race Sports) and suit the WA landscape. Mostly loose dry top soil with some hard stuff not far under the surface. Sometimes we get lucky with a bit of rain and the dirt sticks a bit better - but the tread pattern on the Butcher isn't so tight that the mud sticks.

I'm looking to cut weight where I can - just passively as I go - and wonder what the weight difference is between 1, 1.5 or 2 ply tyre's and whether you can feel the difference when you're riding? The Butcher is dual ply and I've been pretty lucky with tyre pressure and have had a blow out (yet).

Cheers!

 

[Dozer]

The Butcher's are the best tyre I've used for downhill. I'd keep them on all my bikes if I didn't have to spend $100 a tyre. I've since found Schwalbe Magic Mary's have a similar feel and last just enough before they become a little brittle on the side knobs. I've used Minion's heaps in the past though and have them on my trail bike and can't fault them, they are cheap enough to have on any bike, they don't wear as quickly as the other tyres and are a tackier compound.
As for the ply? I'd stick with dual ply, if you haven't had any issues with it then thats a good thing and worth sticking with.

 

[M4RT0]

Cheers Dozer!

I got a bit obsessed and spent a solid part of the night researching and found even with the Minions having a dual ply, they're still a couple hundred grams lighter than the Butcher - which should help cut down a bit of weight if I ever get quick enough! (rotational weight? :ambivalence

Think I'm going to go with two Minions DHF dual ply and a 60a rubber - mostly to get the longest life.

 

[Dozer]

Think I'm going to go with two Minions DHF dual ply and a 60a rubber - mostly to get the longest life.

You can't go wrong with Minions, they really are that good. One of the big differences I've come across with Minions compared to a Mary or even a Butcher is that they are less predictable. The other tyres do what you tell them but they wear quicker. The Minion, even the softer compound; will wear better than the equivalent compound on the other tyres I've used.

 

[dunndog]

Hey M4rto, get a 60 on the back and a 3C on the front.. fronts wear much slower than rears, and the extra tackiness will have you more sure footed on the front.. definitely a tangible improvement over a 60 up front.

 

[M4RT0]

Hey M4rto, get a 60 on the back and a 3C on the front.. fronts wear much slower than rears, and the extra tackiness will have you more sure footed on the front.. definitely a tangible improvement over a 60 up front.

That's a solid idea!

I usually just change the tyre pressure a bit depending on the terrain. I'm not really heavy so 30psi is heaps for me. heaps of room to adjust - Did Albany (WA) a couple weekends ago and it was a real mix of hard granite rock gardens with the soil going from damp on the first day to dry and dusty on the second.

The Butcher is a duel compound with 40a knobs and 70 for the rest I think. So maybe I will notice the difference going to a 60a.

 

[M4RT0]

So, I'm back at it again.

After get a few more races in last year the one that stood out the most was a really muddy and literally swampy track. It didn't matter if the puddle was bailed out, it had a spring filling it up from the ground.

The DHF tread pattern was ok for the first 20 riders, then it was a matter of trying to stay upright. Skiing down the mud!

I'm a bit stuck on what to use since I'm still on 26" tyres and it doesn't look like I can get any Maxxis Wet Screams, so my options look to be:

- WTB Warden
- Schwalbe Dirty Dan
- Maxxis Shorty

Looking to get any input or suggestions for seriously muddy conditions. I'm predicting at least 2-3 races will be mud fest.

 

[Oddjob]

So, I'm back at it again.

After get a few more races in last year the one that stood out the most was a really muddy and literally swampy track. It didn't matter if the puddle was bailed out, it had a spring filling it up from the ground.

The DHF tread pattern was ok for the first 20 riders, then it was a matter of trying to stay upright. Skiing down the mud!

I'm a bit stuck on what to use since I'm still on 26" tyres and it doesn't look like I can get any Maxxis Wet Screams, so my options look to be:

- WTB Warden
- Schwalbe Dirty Dan
- Maxxis Shorty

Looking to get any input or suggestions for seriously muddy conditions. I'm predicting at least 2-3 races will be mud fest.

High rollers are very good at clearing mud. They tend to have a dead spot off centre but will hookup if leaned over for the side knobs with your body centered over the bike. Running them so that the ramps are facing backwards at the front and forwards at the rear is the way to go.

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[Ultra Lord]

Why reverse the tread pattern? And which one has been reversed? I run HRII’s 2.4 3C front and 2.3 back and there pretty good all rounder tyres. Abit dragging coming off a minion ss on the back but grippier and better in the wet.

Both with the ramped edges leading though. I cant see how reversing one would be of benefit?

 

[Oddjob]

You reverse the high rollers so you get the square edge facing forwards on the front to brake and backwards at the back to provide traction.

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[Ultra Lord]

Each to their own I suppose, I just can’t see how a minor gain in climbing traction, which I percieve as being pretty decent already, warrants a slower rolling and worse braking orientation.

 

[Oddjob]

Each to their own I suppose, I just can’t see how a minor gain in climbing traction, which I percieve as being pretty decent already, warrants a slower rolling and worse braking orientation.

The op was asking about muddy conditions. You need the extra traction in the mud to get up to the speed the tyres will clear themselves quickly. The loss in rear braking is no loss. You shouldn't use the rear brake in the mud; too much risk of losing the backend.

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[Ultra Lord]

Missed that. I was thinking a set and forget setup, not wet race specific.

Might be worthwhile taking this question to pinkbike and asking some gents from wetter countries what they run? I can’t remember the last proper wet race I attended.

 

[pink poodle]

muddy Mary?

 

[M4RT0]

I'm not sure if they make the Muddy Mary anymore - there is the Magic Mary but doesn't quite look aggresive enough for what I have in mind.

I found the Dirty Dan tyre for $36 each, so have 2 of those on the way. They look to have a big blocky pattern. Even if I just run one on the front, it will surely be better than the DHF!

Definitely worth the gamble at that cost.