AM Waltly Ti Hardtail

Calvin27

Eats Squid
Stupid question, but can you highlight how the actual purchase works?

I assume it would go something like go on aliexpress walty page and then send them some comms, they to and fro and at some point a deposit then final payment and shipped?

I'm looking at a ti roadie with pretty standard geometry and these guys are pretty much best value based on googlefu
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
I'd pretty much expected the first draft to be a disaster so that sort of kept me calm in a weird way, so it was a little less disconcerting when the first draft geo I received was totally off. I'd known that I'd have to get things changed with the design anyway to get the curved top tube and down tube I wanted, so I sent them a geo chart with dimensions along with some example pictures of frame features I wanted - and the second draft was a lot better. Only needed a few back-and-forth e-mails to tweak minor details from there. Definitely worth a shot IMO.

This wasn't the geometry I ended up with, but this website is quite handy for drawing up geo charts:
Bike Geometry Calculator
(Hint: Click 'Measure' and it shows a lot of extra measurements, click 'Swap Bikes' and you can do another bike's geometry for comparison)

Only potential issue with the frame I've found so far is that it may not fit a 2.5" rear tyre (it should do in theory). It has a Rekon Race 2.35" rear tyre currently (on a 30mm inner width rim), and probably only has 6mm clearance to the driveside stay next to the tyre knobs. I will throw in another wheel with a 2.5" Aggressor to check clearance in the coming days, but I'm not optimistic it'll fit with sufficient clearance.

It's not a dealbreaker for me, as I knew trying to do tubular stays at a short for 29er 428mm with clearance for a 2.5" tyre was going to be extremely challenging. Fortunately for me I only wanted to have the option to run 2.5", so it's not a big concern. (Plus, it still may actually fit - T.B.A)
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Stupid question, but can you highlight how the actual purchase works?

I assume it would go something like go on aliexpress walty page and then send them some comms, they to and fro and at some point a deposit then final payment and shipped?

I'm looking at a ti roadie with pretty standard geometry and these guys are pretty much best value based on googlefu
I submitted the estimate form via e-mail as per their website:
Waltly Titanium
359545


They then have a look at what you want, and send you a price estimate.

I think at this point they used to do a rough draft for the customer, and then ask for a deposit. But nowadays you have to pay the deposit before they start designing. I can understand where they're coming from with this approach - otherwise they'd spend a lot of time doing designs for orders that didn't go eventuate, and I believe if they can't build what you want, they will refund your deposit - but maybe ask the question to be sure. It was definitely a bit of a leap of faith regardless, but all went smoothly.
 

Calvin27

Eats Squid
I'd pretty much expected the first draft to be a disaster so that sort of kept me calm in a weird way
I was actually going to just send them a picture of my existing bike with geo to boot and then curve a few tubes (mainly top and seat stay). Thanks, I'll go through that portal. Wasn't sure because they also have an aliexpress page.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
I was actually going to just send them a picture of my existing bike with geo to boot and then curve a few tubes (mainly top and seat stay). Thanks, I'll go through that portal. Wasn't sure because they also have an aliexpress page.
Yeah, AliExpress baffles me so I just e-mailed them directly.

FYI, if you want to pay with PayPal they will charge a surcharge to cover the fees. If I was to buy from them again, I'd just use my card direct. But I didn't know enough about them before to be confident...
 

wkkie

It's Not Easy Being Green
.... I believe if they can't build what you want, they will refund your deposit - but maybe ask the question to be sure. It was definitely a bit of a leap of faith regardless, but all went smoothly.
I recently went through the design process. I paid the deposit and in the end they couldn't do what I requested.

There were absolutely no issues or hesitation from them in fully refunding my deposit and that was after roughly 35+ emails back and forth. The customer service was excellent and if I need another hardtail down the track I will be using them for sure!
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Can't be that much though right?
Finally found the pricing details in my e-mails (all prices are in USD):

$830 for frame (including $30 upcharge for the curved top-tube)
$120 for shipment cost
$43 for paypal fee (4.5%)

$993 in total

$496.50 for deposit -frame design + production

So, not PayPal surcharge is not wildly expensive in isolation - but it's still worth noting as it becomes a sizeable chunk of change to throw around when you're looking at the total.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Thanks @beeb, going to get started tonight on this!

It will be a roadie though (flame suit on!)
They mate still be on their Chinese New Year holidays, but shoot them an e-mail and I'm sure they'll get back to you once they're back in the office. ;)
 

fatboyonabike

Captain oblivious
very nicely done, its a refreshing change to see builds without having 10 different brand names rammed down your optic nerve!
its funny that people still associate products coming out of China as rubbish, with a quality finish such as this , its clear to see that they have great pride in their work and are truly craftsmen in their own right..
Enjoy. :)
 

Soul-Rider

Likes Dirt
I feel dirty asking this but have you weighed the frame? It looks awesome, I wonder what they have for single speed drop outs!
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
I feel dirty asking this but have you weighed the frame? It looks awesome, I wonder what they have for single speed drop outs!
I did actually as I was curious how it compared to my previous (alloy) frame. The Waltly frame came in at 2010gr with derailluer hanger, rear thru-axle, axle nut, and seat clamp.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Only potential issue with the frame I've found so far is that it may not fit a 2.5" rear tyre (it should do in theory). It has a Rekon Race 2.35" rear tyre currently (on a 30mm inner width rim), and probably only has 6mm clearance to the driveside stay next to the tyre knobs. I will throw in another wheel with a 2.5" Aggressor to check clearance in the coming days, but I'm not optimistic it'll fit with sufficient clearance.
I was wrong, it fits fine. Clearance isn't huge but would be adequate for You Yangs and its granitic sand if I choose to run the 2.5" tyre. Really claggy wet clay could create problems, but the chance of me riding in such conditions is slim anyway.
 

Calvin27

Eats Squid
Thanks for the advice @beeb!

I've put my order for waltly Ti frame after some correspondence (I guess they are back up operating again). I got priced the same as you $800usd for frame, $120usd for post and the usual fees and stuff. I added a carbon fork for $100 usd I'll have to evaluate the quality to see if I'll ride it.

For the record my frame design is a road bike designed to suit up to 34c (33c plus some knobs lol) I've spec'd internal routing and accidentally said full internal and the slaes person said that would be shit to build and suggested I exit the BB and then re route in the chain stay - which is what I meantbut good to see they know what they are doing. So far so good and they have been quick to reply so I'm confident so far. I might even get a Ti mtb if it goes well - got enough parts for a hackish build!

Once again thanks for the post and giving me the confidence to save a good $1500 from what is out there in the market!
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Well it's taken a while but finally got this out for a proper ride today. There's been a few minor tweaks from the original spec since the first ride though.

@The Duckmeister got the front wheel built up for me (Nextie Premium 40 - 36mm int. 32 hole onto P321 hub) a while back, and over the weekend I've fitted a V4 front caliper, fixed the previously too-short front brake line, re-lubed the front caliper and brake master seals, fitted a set of Slik Graphics "Real stealth" decals to the fork, and swapped a 2.5" Aggressor on the back.

Anyway so today myself and a couple of mates went to You Yangs (stockyard side) and rode some of the "black diamond" and blue trails. First run (Cressy) I was still feeling things out, I felt a little awkward in corners (I was being too upright/hesitant in truthfulness) but the bike coped well in the rocks (a lot better than I expected to be honest). 2nd run was a longer run (Junction Track) - naturally it ate up the flow section at the start (starting from the top of the hill) then about a third of the way down the black section something just clicked for me and I was suddenly just 'in the zone'. Bike felt confident and compliant, predictable (enough) through rocks and I really started to get off the brakes and let it go a bit more. Third track (Lactic Acid) was steeper and bermy and an absolute blast. Then a repeat of the opener (Cressy) which was a whole different feeling now the confidence was there. Followed a mate down on an SB5, and while he wasn't giving it 100% I was able to hold even with him even through the rocks without really having to push.

Probably the biggest surprise for me though is how nicely the bike jumps. Obviously it's pretty light - so it's easy to get airborne, but it's also noticeable that the frame has enough spring in it to be able to be pre-loaded a touch to help it pop evenly with the front, and doesn't bounce the back-wheel when returning to earth. In some respects it feels more like jumping a really short-travel dually rather than a hardtail.

Only thing I stuffed in the whole build is I've cut the steerer a bit short (CoTFW). On paper I'd compensated for it with the stack height when deciding on geometry, and left the steerer about 10mm longer than I expected to need even still , but something about the higher BB makes me want the bars a fraction higher to feel balanced. The bars are maxed out on the steerer as-is now though, so I might have to admit defeat and swap the CSU at some stage. It's definitely rideable in the meantime (and still damn good fun) though, so it's not a "must-do" just a want.

Didn't really get around to any action shots, but it was a good day out and I was pleased to find the frame performed well above my expectations on steeper and rockier trails than I expected it to cooperate with. I'm a happy man.

PS: The shift ramps in both-directions on Shimano 12 speed are sex. Love how it doesn't "slap" when changing to a harder gear. Microspline might shit people to tears, but I'll credit Shimano for doing a bloody good job of designing what was a long time coming.

360925
 
Last edited:
Top