Calvin27
Eats Squid
Crap if you are doing another than so am I!
Hardtail 130mm 29er for me this time. All because I 'forgot' to add a spare derailleur hanger for the roadie *arhem gravel bike.
AM Waltly Ti Hardtail
- Thread starter beeb
- Start date
Hardtail 130mm 29er for me this time. All because I 'forgot' to add a spare derailleur hanger for the roadie *arhem gravel bike.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Very similar look to that Nordest frame design overall. I have a 212mm dropper I'll be using, so I'm able to spec a 485mm seat tube and only have about 15mm gap to the bottom of the dropper collar.So are you just planning to go for a straight top tube which intersects the seat tube at a lower height to reduce the standover? Then increase the seat tube length above the top tube intersection and have a nifty brace? I imagine that at 6'2 even with a 150mm dropper you'll need a fair bit of tube hanging out.
Like this
We should all order together and get a discount
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Design completed:
As it turned out the design ended up being a simplified version compared to drawing posted previously. Unfortunately, they (Waltly) decided the ovalised top-tube I wanted was "unworkable". In reality, I don't think they could figure out how to weld it to the seat tube & seat stays. It's one of those things where I know what I wanted, but trying to communicate it to someone in a different country via e-mail with the slight confusions that can occur with translation/interpretation between languages all got a bit hard (that is not a dig at them, just the reality of the interactions - they were quite good again otherwise). Same thing with trying to get a guide tube run through the downtube and into the bottom of the seattube for the dropper cable. I pushed a bit harder on this one but I kept getting told it was "unworkable" or getting design alterations that weren't close to what I was asking. What I eventually figured out was that they make the frame first, then add any cable guide tubes later. I'm fine with it, and ultimately it was only really for aesthetics and wasn't going to effect the operation of the bike - so I just went with external routing on the down-tube and through a port into the seat-tube again. Although I couldn't get the ovalised top tube I had wanted, I still wanted to try and combat the front-end flexiness of my first frame so I went with a larger diameter top tube, and a more angular profile and thicker walled downtube (1.1mm wall thickness). The keen-eyed geo freaks might notice that the BB has actually risen despite my earlier plans to lower it - but that's because this frame is going to setup as a mullet with a 27.5" rear wheel. I decided it's a frame I'm getting built purely for fun rides, and while the rollover of a 29er rear is handy over rocks - they just don't feel as lively to me everywhere else. Front end will be a 29x2.5" and 140mm fork, with 27.5x2.5" out back.
As it turned out the design ended up being a simplified version compared to drawing posted previously. Unfortunately, they (Waltly) decided the ovalised top-tube I wanted was "unworkable". In reality, I don't think they could figure out how to weld it to the seat tube & seat stays. It's one of those things where I know what I wanted, but trying to communicate it to someone in a different country via e-mail with the slight confusions that can occur with translation/interpretation between languages all got a bit hard (that is not a dig at them, just the reality of the interactions - they were quite good again otherwise). Same thing with trying to get a guide tube run through the downtube and into the bottom of the seattube for the dropper cable. I pushed a bit harder on this one but I kept getting told it was "unworkable" or getting design alterations that weren't close to what I was asking. What I eventually figured out was that they make the frame first, then add any cable guide tubes later. I'm fine with it, and ultimately it was only really for aesthetics and wasn't going to effect the operation of the bike - so I just went with external routing on the down-tube and through a port into the seat-tube again. Although I couldn't get the ovalised top tube I had wanted, I still wanted to try and combat the front-end flexiness of my first frame so I went with a larger diameter top tube, and a more angular profile and thicker walled downtube (1.1mm wall thickness). The keen-eyed geo freaks might notice that the BB has actually risen despite my earlier plans to lower it - but that's because this frame is going to setup as a mullet with a 27.5" rear wheel. I decided it's a frame I'm getting built purely for fun rides, and while the rollover of a 29er rear is handy over rocks - they just don't feel as lively to me everywhere else. Front end will be a 29x2.5" and 140mm fork, with 27.5x2.5" out back.
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HamboCairns
Thanks for all the bananas
Looks like a titanium Ragley mmmbop (if they made one), I like it!
Calvin27
Eats Squid
Looks like I'm following your lead for a second waltly @beeb.
Got hit by a car and totalled my gravel bike. Looking at prices these days and it's pretty expy and I have enough spares to make a hardtail/full rigid.
Have you had any updates on your second build? Prices still the same I assume (aussie dollar a bit better) but shipping and all that should be the same -about a month?
Got hit by a car and totalled my gravel bike. Looking at prices these days and it's pretty expy and I have enough spares to make a hardtail/full rigid.
Have you had any updates on your second build? Prices still the same I assume (aussie dollar a bit better) but shipping and all that should be the same -about a month?
Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
Whoa, hope you are still one piece or did you break the car too?
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Jeez @Calvin27 - hope you're okay! (Aside from the psychological damage of having a bike written-off of course!)
Frame build took about 5 weeks from when I payed the deposit. Also freight costs have spiraled out even further and it cost me $230USD (simply due to lack of capacity available from COVID-19). I'd anticipated it's cost more, but not that much more if I'm honest. Frame csot was unchanged. It's in transit currently, so all going well probably around 6 weeks from design approval to arrival in my case.
Calvin27
Eats Squid
Thanks folks, battered but nothing I won't recover from. Can't ride for about 6 weeks (coincidence?) Focus on the positives, new bike!
Geezus. I paid something like $150usd. But I guess I make it back on the FX. I think I was bang on 60c when I paid the second installment :!
Daniel Hale
She fid, he fid, I fidn't
HT 4 the win, unless u is chasing kom type speed
Calvin27
Eats Squid
One of the perks of more expensive shipping - happy building, if you're in Vic, you got 6 weeks to do it haha!
Progress pics too please.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Anybody need pics of anything in particular before I assemble it? (Not including pics of myself or parts thereof!)
I'm mostly just swapping parts from other bikes, so aside from running a new dropper cable it shouldn't take too long to get it together...
Will definitely grab some pics of the frame before I build it though.
Calvin27
Eats Squid
Personally, I'm in it just for a perve.
ashes_mtb
Has preferences
He said no pics of himself tho...
Ultra Lord
Hurts. Requires Money. And is nerdy.
Peer pressure is a thing