What did you do TO / WITH / FOR your bike today!

Claim warranty and sell the frame?
Maybe. I'll shoot Marino a message and see what happens. Bonus image from the Marino's final AYG lap below... crack clearly visible between those two blue zip ties :eek:

GX010403.MP4_snapshot_04.27.821.jpg


Bring it around. I'll weld it up for you! I'll add some knives and forks for reinforcement:p
Honestly, stripping the paint back, welding the crack, and adding some gusseting (plus maybe re-heat treat?), and maybe it'd be rideable for a while longer? Until it wasn't? :p
 
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Maybe. I'll shoot Marino a message and see what happens. Bonus image from the Marino's final AYG lap below... crack clearly visible between those two blue zip ties :eek:

View attachment 410149


Honestly, stripping the paint back, welding the crack, and adding some gusseting (plus maybe re-heat treat?), and maybe it'd be rideable for a while longer? Until it wasn't? :p
Is it a Chromoly 4130, Reynolds 725 or Reynolds 520 frame? I could weld it, but I don't have any chrome moly filler rods or a decent gas lens for the TIG. You could have another gusset added in there and just keep an eye one it.
 
Maybe. I'll shoot Marino a message and see what happens. Bonus image from the Marino's final AYG lap below... crack clearly visible between those two blue zip ties :eek:

View attachment 410149


Honestly, stripping the paint back, welding the crack, and adding some gusseting (plus maybe re-heat treat?), and maybe it'd be rideable for a while longer? Until it wasn't? :p

Surely no warranty given the force of those zip ties have clearly caused the issue on the top tube!
 
Maybe. I'll shoot Marino a message and see what happens. Bonus image from the Marino's final AYG lap below... crack clearly visible between those two blue zip ties :eek:
Sad to hear but that is a prize winner of a shot. If you are going to bow out with a cracked frame then this has to be the most stylee way to do it.

Honestly, stripping the paint back, welding the crack, and adding some gusseting (plus maybe re-heat treat?), and maybe it'd be rideable for a while longer? Until it wasn't? :p
Sounds like a worthy plan. Why not? :cool: Adding plain gauge cro-mo should outlast time itself.
 
Is it a Chromoly 4130, Reynolds 725 or Reynolds 520 frame? I could weld it, but I don't have any chrome moly filler rods or a decent gas lens for the TIG. You could have another gusset added in there and just keep an eye one it.
It's 4130 - i'll actually take you up on that offer if you're keen at having a crack. After doing some research, it wouldn't be the first repaired Marino frame.

Surely no warranty given the force of those zip ties have clearly caused the issue on the top tube!
Hah!

Looking back the frame actually is out of warranty, was Feb 2022 when I received the replacement, and they state a 2y warranty. Sent an email 1/2 hour ago and have already got a response, see attached. Currently deciding on whether I get stredda to weld it, or just get something else. It wasn't without it's issues even when in one piece, bit of a weird bike to ride being so slack and low - the geo was a bit whack.
 

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It's 4130 - i'll actually take you up on that offer if you're keen at having a crack. After doing some research, it wouldn't be the first repaired Marino frame.


Hah!

Looking back the frame actually is out of warranty, was Feb 2022 when I received the replacement, and they state a 2y warranty. Sent an email 1/2 hour ago and have already got a response, see attached. Currently deciding on whether I get stredda to weld it, or just get something else. It wasn't without it's issues even when in one piece, bit of a weird bike to ride being so slack and low - the geo was a bit whack.
Maybe we could turn it into a gravel bike or something. :p
 
It's 4130 - i'll actually take you up on that offer if you're keen at having a crack. After doing some research, it wouldn't be the first repaired Marino frame.


Hah!

Looking back the frame actually is out of warranty, was Feb 2022 when I received the replacement, and they state a 2y warranty. Sent an email 1/2 hour ago and have already got a response, see attached. Currently deciding on whether I get stredda to weld it, or just get something else. It wasn't without it's issues even when in one piece, bit of a weird bike to ride being so slack and low - the geo was a bit whack.
I'm sure someone would buy it on here @pink poodle was after a park bike recently.
 
looks like a really weird place for it to crack, and unless you are slamming into stuff head-on, that part of the tubing should be in compression not tension (somewhat less likely to crack)..strip the paint and get some Dy-mark Flaw Check paint to see how terminal it is.
 
looks like a really weird place for it to crack, and unless you are slamming into stuff head-on, that part of the tubing should be in compression not tension (somewhat less likely to crack)..strip the paint and get some Dy-mark Flaw Check paint to see how terminal it is.


Did you miss the explanation @fatboyonabike ? It was actually quite simple - @Isaakk did the zip ties up too tight.
 
looks like a really weird place for it to crack, and unless you are slamming into stuff head-on, that part of the tubing should be in compression not tension (somewhat less likely to crack)..strip the paint and get some Dy-mark Flaw Check paint to see how terminal it is.
Seems to fit with the way the frame would be loaded under compression on a drop, it's a slack beast (60deg HA with +2deg angle set), so head tube area is stressed a lot more on hard drops.

It's definitely terminal though - can see daylight through the crack on the other side, it's opened up a good mm or so.
 
Seems to fit with the way the frame would be loaded under compression on a drop, it's a slack beast (60deg HA with +2deg angle set), so head tube area is stressed a lot more on hard drops.

It's definitely terminal though - can see daylight through the crack on the other side, it's opened up a good mm or so.
Damn! 60 degrees! That was made for the A line on cuddles lol
 
looks like a really weird place for it to crack, and unless you are slamming into stuff head-on, that part of the tubing should be in compression not tension (somewhat less likely to crack)..strip the paint and get some Dy-mark Flaw Check paint to see how terminal it is.

Looks like it is the heat effected zone from the gusset weld. 4130 frames can crack ~ 10mm from welds where the heat effected zone is. I remember a discussion about this regarding BMX frames that are mostly 4130 or similar.

You are right that many forces don't strain the tube in that direction but all front wheel braking and any front wheel cases or square edge hits with the front will put that section in tension. The crack looks to have started at the bottom of the tube suggests it is there because that area is a weak point because of the welding. I expect that there may be a welding/heat treatment issue (or too thin a tube chosen).
 
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