What roof bike carrrier?

[Honzo15]

We need a second bike rack for the roof and I dont know what to buy. I have a Thule Freerider but I'm not that happy with it. Its a pain in the ass to get the clamp tight enough but so that you can still close it (its a weird clamp system I think). I dont find it secure and I dont like the process of loading my bike onto it. Thats one of the most important things to me, the loading has to be quick, easy and secure as I do it several times a week. I was thinking of either the Thule ProRide or the Yakima High Roller. My problem with the pro ride (that 90% of the guys at my local car park seem to use btw) is that I have all my cables running on the downtube and thats exactly where the clamp sits. Would that be a problem at all?
I like how the Yakima secures the bike without even touching the frame and it looks very easy to mount the bike. But is it secure, I dont really know and its hard to find some real experiences with that one.

What do you guys use on your roofs? Would love to use a hatch mount btw but thats out of question as its a company car (my girfriends btw) which may go sometime soon anyway.

 

[JTmofo]

I have 3 thule 591's and have done thousands of kms with bike rigged up.
I swear by them, solid, lockable, great Thule build quality and not too exy.

 

[Honzo15]

I have 3 thule 591's and have done thousands of kms with bike rigged up.
I swear by them, solid, lockable, great Thule build quality and not too exy.

Thanks mate! Do you think the clamp would be a problem with having my cables on the downtube?

 

[JTmofo]

I have my cables on my down tubes, no problems at all. A little care when clamping down grip and it's all good. I just make sure I lock the clamp of peace of mind to ensure they would open while driving.

 

[Pastavore]

The Yakima Frontloader is brilliant. 20", 24", 26", 29", road bike doesn't matter. QR, thru axle doesn't matter. Funky tube shapes don't matter. Very secure, easy to use and adjust. I've had mine for years and would buy another in a second.


But they are not cheap.

 

[teK--]

I have the proride 591 I don't really like it.

For my bikes it's OK with clamping the downtube but it still scratches the frame. Even if you wrap a towel you have to clean the frame in that area first or you are wrapping around dirt. Cables on downtube is a problem with when I carry mates' bikes, and also carbon frames it's dubious cranking it up tight enough for the bike not to move.

I'd get the Yakima next time around.

 

[Honzo15]

I dont really mind the frame scratching thing as Im not that anal with my bikes. I look after them yes of course but they get heaps of scratches from riding them properly anyway. I'm still not sure about the downtube cable thingy though.

 

[JTmofo]

If heaps of other riders at your park are using them, ask them can you take a look and test for. Being fella mtbs I'm sure they won't mind.

 

[teK--]

I dont really mind the frame scratching thing as Im not that anal with my bikes. I look after them yes of course but they get heaps of scratches from riding them properly anyway. I'm still not sure about the downtube cable thingy though.

Riding scratches I"m not so phased about. But a worn band around the bottom of the down tube in one location I didn't like...

If you have downtube cables you will hate the Pro ride.

 

[Honzo15]

Riding scratches I"m not so phased about. But a worn band around the bottom of the down tube in one location I didn't like...

If you have downtube cables you will hate the Pro ride.

Because it will damage my cables or because the clamp cant be tightened enough?

 

[MARKL]

I use a Thule 594 and I don't know why anyone bothers with anything else. It accommodate everything from 20" to 29" and everything in between. It even accommodates my fat bike even if the solution isn't exactly what Mr Thule had in mind.

 

[wavike]

Thanks mate! Do you think the clamp would be a problem with having my cables on the downtube?

It might depending on where the arm sits. I've been using one on a splesh Epic for 12mths, with the arm locking on a cable holder below water bottle cage. Recently put bigger tires on and am now having a problem. The arm won't stay where it was. It now sits lower on the cables where they are slack for suspension take up. Shifting has been affected, only happened on last longer trip, I need to do something, not sure what yet.
They are so quick and easy to use once setup though.

 

[Fifteen.Hundred]

Thule 594 here too. Not the prettiest or aero carrier available but its the easiest one ive ever used. Literally 30 seconds to load or unload. Accommodates my road, duellie and hardtail without fuss. Clamping the front wheel opposed to a frame is what sold me.

 

[cabletieperformance]

if you are breaking carbon with a proride you must be the hulk...

 

[RaID]

I couldn't be more happier with the Yakima Front Loader, bikes are very secure (both highway speeds and twisting roads), no frame touching, all wheel sizes accommodated and it takes 20 seconds to mount the bike. Very quick and easy to take the carriers off the roof if you need to.

A few friends with the Thule 591 prefer the mounting systems on the Yakima once they have tried it.

Highly recommended.

You can pick them up for $200 each if you look around for at local bike shops.

 

[NUMBER5]

I use a Thule 594 and I don't know why anyone bothers with anything else. It accommodate everything from 20" to 29" and everything in between. It even accommodates my fat bike even if the solution isn't exactly what Mr Thule had in mind.

View attachment 303713

Thule 594 here too. Not the prettiest or aero carrier available but its the easiest one ive ever used. Literally 30 seconds to load or unload. Accommodates my road, duellie and hardtail without fuss. Clamping the front wheel opposed to a frame is what sold me.

^^^^This..... I would add that it takes more like less than 10sec to load and unload... walk into RoofRack World and play with a few.

 

[Rabble bukes]

Another vote for the thule 594. Super easy to put the bike in, super secure, and clamps the front wheel so no worry about clamping your carbon frame ( even though, as mentioned, you'd really have to be applying some force to do damage with a frame clamp system)

 

[teK--]

Because it will damage my cables or because the clamp cant be tightened enough?

Both

20char

 

[nzhumpy]

A vote here for the 591. My most ridden mtb bike has the cables running under the down tube. It's pretty simple to load, just lightly tighten the clamp then push the cables to the side then tighten properly and lock- takes all of 15 seconds load.

A splash of water from the hydrapack gets rid of any dirt that could possible mark the frame and I've never felt even close to damaging a tube with the clamp. Maybe we need a warning sticker stating the correct Nm and a proprietary tool so no-one ham-fisted could over tighten it.

 

[blacksp20]

I've got a pair of Yakima Highrollers on my car. Absolutely love them. Quick and easy to load/unload bikes. They are quiet on the highway. Accommodate 20"-29" wheels and 26" DH width tyres. No contact with the frame of your bike. I got them as the Thules my brother had didn't reach the downtube of my GT Force. No issues with the Highroller.

I can't recommend them enough.