Wheel Build Advice Thread

Jesus 1600gm for an enduro wheelset is crazy light. $357 (at current exchange rates) isn't that bad either, I think I paid $320-330 a rim six years ago, and they weren't the 'premium' ones either.
 
Thanks @Asininedrivel and @Isaakk hoping to be around the 1600g mark which will drop 400g off my current wheelset. Can’t afford a new frame so will try to make the current one a bit more spritely.

Somewhere in the middle of these 2 ? Though if you are not ploughing rock gardens and recklessly landing jumps on loose rock, the Spur wheels would be easily enough.

Both built with DT Comps, the lighter set is 28h and DT240 with a slightly lighter weight rim. Both sets still in perfect condition after around 2500km each.

Interesting to see that Brian now offers the option of the single wrapped black 'N' as per my design I have now had on 3 sets 😍

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Spur - 1480g


Deviate - 1779g

 
Somewhere in the middle of these 2 ? Though if you are not ploughing rock gardens and recklessly landing jumps on loose rock, the Spur wheels would be easily enough.

Both built with DT Comps, the lighter set is 28h and DT240 with a slightly lighter weight rim. Both sets still in perfect condition after around 2500km each.

Interesting to see that Brian now offers the option of the single wrapped black 'N' as per my design I have now had on 3 sets 😍

View attachment 412761

Spur - 1480g


Deviate - 1779g

The Spur wheels felt good when I took it for a spin. If I hit 1500g and proves reliable would be stoked.
 
Thinking of making the switch from hope hubs to DT Swiss - 350 or 240.
Has anyone here got wheels (or built wheels) with straight-pull DT Swiss hubs? or are the DT Swiss fans here more into hubs for J-bend spokes?

I was going to get some factory DT GR1600 spline gravel wheels with 24mm int rims and DT 350 SP 24H hubs (& bladed spokes)
and while that was happening, fell down the Nextie site rabbit hole, lusting after those insanely light rims and wheel builds with DT 240 hubs etc.
 
Thinking of making the switch from hope hubs to DT Swiss - 350 or 240.
Has anyone here got wheels (or built wheels) with straight-pull DT Swiss hubs? or are the DT Swiss fans here more into hubs for J-bend spokes?

I was going to get some factory DT GR1600 spline gravel wheels with 24mm int rims and DT 350 SP 24H hubs (& bladed spokes)
and while that was happening, fell down the Nextie site rabbit hole, lusting after those insanely light rims and wheel builds with DT 240 hubs etc.
I run a set of 350 straight pull. I didn't build them but have replaced broken spokes no drama.
I have re-rim'd another set of straight pull rims (Sun Ringle). Little more fiddly in the early stages of the build, but otherwise ok.
 
Thinking of making the switch from hope hubs to DT Swiss - 350 or 240.
Has anyone here got wheels (or built wheels) with straight-pull DT Swiss hubs? or are the DT Swiss fans here more into hubs for J-bend spokes?

I was going to get some factory DT GR1600 spline gravel wheels with 24mm int rims and DT 350 SP 24H hubs (& bladed spokes)
and while that was happening, fell down the Nextie site rabbit hole, lusting after those insanely light rims and wheel builds with DT 240 hubs etc.
Straight pull are fine just a bit tricky with initial true. Just make sure you get the classics not the exp versions.

Check out the Funn Fanton hubs on Ali for MTB. 102 poe and solid as a rock, unlike some other high poe hubs (I9 I'm looking at you). Shares the same internals as the Spank Hex hub.
 
DT hubs eat their undersized freewheel body bearings with annoying frequency. I don't like radial contact bearings in hubs at the best of times (give me angular contact every time!), but DT are up there in the worst of a widely-adopted, fundamentally bad design.
 
DT hubs eat their undersized freewheel body bearings with annoying frequency. I don't like radial contact bearings in hubs at the best of times (give me angular contact every time!), but DT are up there in the worst of a widely-adopted, fundamentally bad design.
What other hub manufacturers use radial contact bearings as part of a fundamentally bad design?
 
Straight pull are fine just a bit tricky with initial true. Just make sure you get the classics not the exp versions.

Check out the Funn Fanton hubs on Ali for MTB. 102 poe and solid as a rock, unlike some other high poe hubs (I9 I'm looking at you). Shares the same internals as the Spank Hex hub.
What's the issue with the EXP version hubs?
 
What's the issue with the EXP version hubs?
The early ones had problems that led to a recall. I'm not 100% certain the issue has been fixed, maybe someone else can comment.

Also it's a pain to change POE, and the tools to change the bearings are more expensive and aren't nearly as ubiquitous.
 
The early ones had problems that led to a recall. I'm not 100% certain the issue has been fixed, maybe someone else can comment.
I had a 240 EXP fail, fixed under warranty locally even though I bought from Germany. No issues since. They’re quiet, I like them.
 
The early ones had problems that led to a recall. I'm not 100% certain the issue has been fixed, maybe someone else can comment.

There was possibly 3 issues from the 2019-2020 early release of the EXP hubs.

The floating ratchet or spring was getting jammed and there was no engagement as the ratchet was stuck in the freewheel. DT never came out and said what the exact issue was but it took them 18 months to admit there was an issue and start fixing it, slowly. Sadly, the failure of the once bulletproof DT Swiss hubs was leaving people stranded and ending very expensive trips and races, which a lot were very angry about.

Some thought the spring was too weak and getting jammed in the freewheel and others thought that the machining tolerance of the freewheel ratchet locator of the floating ratchet was too tight.
People tried stretching springs and other stuff but they eventually failed again, pointing more towards the machining tolerance and as DT was replacing the freehub and ratchet, it was more likely the machining was the problem.

The other issue was the amount of grease in the factory hubs, this was holding the 'slow' engaging ratchet from making full lock up on power and skimming the tips of the teeth off.

The issue is fixed now but home mechanics jamming the ratchet area full of grease will continue to cause engagement failures.

I use finishing line wet lube in every hub I own. It was a tip I read somewhere over 10yrs ago for Chris King hubs and I'm still on the same bottle of lube. Done CK, Tune, Hope, DT and a few others and never had a hub failure. I have had a set of cheap Chi 60t ratchets destroy themselves but I was expecting that at some stage and was carrying the original spares. Over 2000km on the next set of Chi 60t ratchets and still going.
 
There was possibly 3 issues from the 2019-2020 early release of the EXP hubs.

The floating ratchet or spring was getting jammed and there was no engagement as the ratchet was stuck in the freewheel. DT never came out and said what the exact issue was but it took them 18 months to admit there was an issue and start fixing it, slowly. Sadly, the failure of the once bulletproof DT Swiss hubs was leaving people stranded and ending very expensive trips and races, which a lot were very angry about.

Some thought the spring was too weak and getting jammed in the freewheel and others thought that the machining tolerance of the freewheel ratchet locator of the floating ratchet was too tight.
People tried stretching springs and other stuff but they eventually failed again, pointing more towards the machining tolerance and as DT was replacing the freehub and ratchet, it was more likely the machining was the problem.

The other issue was the amount of grease in the factory hubs, this was holding the 'slow' engaging ratchet from making full lock up on power and skimming the tips of the teeth off.

The issue is fixed now but home mechanics jamming the ratchet area full of grease will continue to cause engagement failures.

I use finishing line wet lube in every hub I own. It was a tip I read somewhere over 10yrs ago for Chris King hubs and I'm still on the same bottle of lube. Done CK, Tune, Hope, DT and a few others and never had a hub failure. I have had a set of cheap Chi 60t ratchets destroy themselves but I was expecting that at some stage and was carrying the original spares. Over 2000km on the next set of Chi 60t ratchets and still going.
so, should the factory grease that DT puts in the hubs be removed and replaced with wet lube? or do I need to use the DT "special grease"?
 
so, should the factory grease that DT puts in the hubs be removed and replaced with wet lube? or do I need to use the DT "special grease"?
No that lube can be left in place.

The Finish Line lube is ok if you keep on top of maintenance. Dumondetech Freehub grease is the go if you are lazy like me.
 
so, should the factory grease that DT puts in the hubs be removed and replaced with wet lube? or do I need to use the DT "special grease"?

The only time I have used the DT grease is on my Ibis freehub pawls as goes dry really quickly and creaks, then the crap hard plastic 'apparent seal' needs to be put on without the cassette which is a pain, fckn shitty propriety hubs.

I would check a new hub and make sure that haven't caked it full but if you like a noisy hub, you could remove the factory grease and use finish line.
 
OneUp hubs - anybody laid hands on some ? I like their stuff, thinking of swapping the Ibis OEM rims back on to their hubs and sticking a pair of OneUp hubs into the BTLOS rims currently laced to the Ibis hubs.
Then I'll have a spare wheel set that could turn into a new bike 😈
 
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