Wheel Build Advice Thread

Does anyone have anything bad to say about Race face AR offset rims?
I'm in the market for a new rim to replace a Stans crest mk3 that's splitting at the spoke holes (previous owner I've never ridden it). The bike is a 29xc hardtail that is not going to see heavy off road use (it will be my wife's bike or my son will steal it to ride to school)
Currently the front wheel has an AR25 and this will be matchy matchy and a good price if I buy something random for a few dollars to get free shipping.

 
Last edited:
Does anyone have anything bad to say about Race face AR offset rims?
I'm in the market for a new rim to replace a Stans crest mk3 that's splitting at the spoke holes (previous owner I've never ridden it). The bike is a 29xc hardtail that is not going to see heavy off road use (it will be my wife's bike or my son will steal it to ride to school)
Currently the front wheel has an AR25 and this will be matchy matchy and a good price if I buy something random for a few dollars to get free shipping.


Read here, then further down the page for other comments.

 
Does anyone have anything bad to say about Race face AR offset rims?
I'm in the market for a new rim to replace a Stans crest mk3 that's splitting at the spoke holes (previous owner I've never ridden it). The bike is a 29xc hardtail that is not going to see heavy off road use (it will be my wife's bike or my son will steal it to ride to school)
Currently the front wheel has an AR25 and this will be matchy matchy and a good price if I buy something random for a few dollars to get free shipping.

They are made of cheese....
 
Does anyone have anything bad to say about Race face AR offset rims?
I'm in the market for a new rim to replace a Stans crest mk3 that's splitting at the spoke holes (previous owner I've never ridden it). The bike is a 29xc hardtail that is not going to see heavy off road use (it will be my wife's bike or my son will steal it to ride to school)
Currently the front wheel has an AR25 and this will be matchy matchy and a good price if I buy something random for a few dollars to get free shipping.

Interesting I have 2 sets of wheels with Stans Crest mk3, 29er and 27.5, for a few years now with no issues. Splitting at the spoke holes could be a sign the wheel was built with too much tension.

I recently broke a spoke on the 27.5 rear but I've had these wheels since 2014, so that's not too bad for 11years use.
 
MMkayyyyyy thanks for the feedaback should have searched better, time to rethink the plan on the AR25...
Any other COLC (budget) friendly suggestions 32H 25-30mm width? use case is non @ozzybmx's once were bike smashers, the Hallion has his spitty for that and wifey will probably never ride it.

As far as the Crest goes I can't say much it was on a bike I bought so no know nothing of its history.
 
MMkayyyyyy thanks for the feedaback should have searched better, time to rethink the plan on the AR25...
Any other COLC (budget) friendly suggestions 32H 25-30mm width? use case is non @ozzybmx's once were bike smashers, the Hallion has his spitty for that and wifey will probably never ride it.

As far as the Crest goes I can't say much it was on a bike I bought so no know nothing of its history.
The spank race 33s or the e13 TRS base from Dirt works.
 
Straight pull are fine just a bit tricky with initial true. Just make sure you get the classics not the exp versions.

Check out the Funn Fanton hubs on Ali for MTB. 102 poe and solid as a rock, unlike some other high poe hubs (I9 I'm looking at you). Shares the same internals as the Spank Hex hub.

Could be a lifesaver if this Nukeproof Horizon v2 freehub body is kaput!
 
So apparently (my google-fu isn't amazing) you shouldn't use straight gauge spokes when building carbon rims up.

Anyone heard anything similar?

I was going to lace up my carbon rims sunday(had the rim taped to the wheel to swap each spoke over) and came across this when googling carbon dos and don'ts...
 
So apparently (my google-fu isn't amazing) you shouldn't use straight gauge spokes when building carbon rims up.

Anyone heard anything similar?

I was going to lace up my carbon rims sunday(had the rim taped to the wheel to swap each spoke over) and came across this when googling carbon dos and don'ts...
You probably shouldn't use cheap Chinese carbon either... But here we are. Just send it...
 
I've never heard anything about not using straight gauge spokes in carbon, but if anything is going to fail it'll be the spokes first.
 
NOBL wheels:
Spokes not only strengthen the wheel, but they serve an important role in shock and impact absorption. Use of straight gauge spokes is prohibited and voids the warranty.

Light Bicycle:
Straight Gauge - A straight gauge spoke refers to a spoke that has the same diameter throughout its length. Straight gauge spokes are heavier than butted spokes, and the manufacturing process is simpler and therefore cheaper in most cases. Besides being less expensive, their other advantage is that they can be re-threaded and cut down into other lengths, making them popular for bike shop stocking. Yet we do not build with straight gauge spokes because they are too stiff and can cause premature failures and poor performance.
 
You probably shouldn't use cheap Chinese carbon either... But here we are. Just send it...
This is almost in the league of legendary maxims @Mattyp.

images
 
Yeah this is what I had found.


Was thinking this, but reading the above got the better of me so I've ordered some butted spokes anyway.
We are one in our ability to fu google!

EDIT: I haven't found anything else as yet. I rarely build with straight gauge spokes (only a couple of kids wheelsets) and have had very long lasting wheels. Only broke a spoke for the first time the other day and this is over 15 years of building and riding my own wheels. Doesn't say much but sounds impressive!

EDIT2: Have never built a carbon rim!
 
I've built quite a few j-bend wheels with straight gauge spokes in Chinese carbon using the aforementioned method. I bought a shitload of 305mm spokes years ago at auction and i cut them down and re-thread with a Hozan cutter. Rolled spoke threads would be better of course. It is usually the spoke nipples that let go in China built wheels.
 
China built wheels.

China built ? I've found any low to med quality machine built wheels will 100% break spokes, even fluffed up high end are shit. To be honest, the top end DT's are about the only ones I've ridden that have been flawless. Even had Enves with Chris Kings that broke spokes.

There are a lot of crap wheels out there and the Chi built stuff if assembled by a good builder, are more likely to crack the carbon rim or have a hub failure before the spokes.

I am not a fan of straight pull but did have a set of EX1501's, straight pull on DT 240's with DT511's, was wary at first but they were flawless wheels for my whole ownership.
 
I am not a fan of straight pull but did have a set of EX1501's, straight pull on DT 240's with DT511's, was wary at first but they were flawless wheels for my whole ownership.

Straight gauge not straight pull. Ie straight pull butted spokes are ok.



Sent from my 24069PC21G using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top