Flow-Rider
Burner
You can easily get away with shorter spokes when using brass nips, alloy is less forgiving.Will do... once the rim tape comes off I'll assess the spoke length, but regardless of what I find the alloys will be going in the bin.
You can easily get away with shorter spokes when using brass nips, alloy is less forgiving.Will do... once the rim tape comes off I'll assess the spoke length, but regardless of what I find the alloys will be going in the bin.
So you reckon I should just bite the bullet and re-spoke/re-nipple this wheel from scratch and then I will never have to worry about it again?Brass nipples can still blow their heads off, but it's far less likely. The root problem is that the spokes are too short, but the shit nipples are a close second. At an absolute minimum the spokes should thread up to the base of the head slot, but preferably go the full depth of the nipple head.
A job worth doing, is worth doing right!!So you reckon I should just bite the bullet and re-spoke/re-nipple this wheel from scratch and then I will never have to worry about it again?
Lewd!The Duckmeister said:go the full depth of the nipple head
Yes!So you reckon I should just bite the bullet and re-spoke/re-nipple this wheel from scratch and then I will never have to worry about it again?
I would say more than 10% importance in the tensioning and truing - I've built a fair few wheels for paying customers. Mainly training wheels for roadies. I'd give equal importance of all three aspects, for a top quality result. The first thing a customer does is check out how round and straight their new custom wheels are, and the next is take notice of how well they stay in true in the first few rides. I was taught to pre-bend the spokes by hand once they were laced up, to put the slight extra bend they take from being tensioned. This cuts down a lot on how much re-truing is needed in the first few rides. Not needed for straight pull spokes.it's 50% measuring and calculating, 40% lacing and 10% tensioning/truing to get a good wheel build.
Looks like the app for the Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension MeterCan anyone tell me what this app is?
I mean to say more that it's the least time consuming part of the build. Once it's all planned and laced up, it's just a matter of spinning it over and turning the wrench.I would say more than 10% importance in the tensioning and truing - I've built a fair few wheels for paying customers. Mainly training wheels for roadies. I'd give equal importance of all three aspects, for a top quality result. The first thing a customer does is check out how round and straight their new custom wheels are, and the next is take notice of how well they stay in true in the first few rides. I was taught to pre-bend the spokes by hand once they were laced up, to put the slight natural they take from being tensioned. This cuts down a lot on how much re-truing is needed in the first few rides. Not needed for straight pull spokes.
Make sure you do the measurement and spoke length calculations but your mate pays for the new spokes and nipples. He supplied the wrong stuff to begin with.So you reckon I should just bite the bullet and re-spoke/re-nipple this wheel from scratch and then I will never have to worry about it again?
Ok yeah it should be but I probably spent longer than I should getting them perfect.I mean to say more that it's the least time consuming part of the build. .
Trued 3 sets of wheels today. That Park wheel tension app is magic. https://www.parktool.com/wta Saved me a heap of time compared to scribbling down readings on a notepad. View attachment 345891Looks like the app for the Park Tool TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter
What oil? I used 20W 50 and had no spoke bind at all. Being synthetic motor oil, shouldn't create any issues down the track.I find when I use oil, I get more spoke bind and when you go back to do a retension a year or so later it doesn't feel good.
I've tried motor oil and diff oil. With the grease I can feel it's really smooth when I turn the nipple with a lot tension on it. I've found the grease seems to last longer in there than the oil, whether it's from constantly washing the wheels or riding through water I don't know.What oil? I used 20W 50 and had no spoke bind at all. Being synthetic motor oil, shouldn't create any issues down the track.