mtb101
Likes Bikes and Dirt
kiwiinmelb i'd stick with 32 on both, probably go 34 when 32 wears out.
Working out if 1x conversion is a good idea
- Thread starter DTBrad
- Start date
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Comes back to having a sensibly-sized cassette that has a mid-range you can't fit a truck through..... with that in mind, a 32T will work for most people, most of the time. With a bigger ring, you tend to spend more time up the bigger end of the cassette, which puts a fair whack of stress on other drivetrain bits. How miuch depends a bit on the crank and its chainline; not quite as bad on Shimano because the rings are in the same alignment as the small & middle of a 3x, however SRAM 2x effectively aligns the rings in the gaps between 3x rings, which munts the chainline a bit, because it pushes it outboard.
Anyway, so you drop off the slightly-too-big big ring to the slightly-too-small small ring, and have to dump halfway across the cassette to correct for the ratio jump, and end up on the smaller sprockets, which brings with it less chain-sprocket contact and lower derailleur tension -> greater risk of poor chain engagement.
Anyway, so you drop off the slightly-too-big big ring to the slightly-too-small small ring, and have to dump halfway across the cassette to correct for the ratio jump, and end up on the smaller sprockets, which brings with it less chain-sprocket contact and lower derailleur tension -> greater risk of poor chain engagement.
Hi all,
thanks for the replies and different view points.
The bike that I have and intend to keep for a while is a 2012 Merida Matts Trail 500. Old school 26er but the previous owner upgraded to XT hollowtech crankset, XT shadow plus RD and XT FD. I fitted a set of SLX M675 brakes and external routed dropper post. Just pruchased a set of DT Swiss M1800 wheels and a unused Fox fork to fit it. To get a new bike with similar build would cost me a fair bit.
The cassette is still pretty new so I will probably keep the 3x for the time being. The terrain I cover is a little varied. At the moment I am using Mt Peel, which is just on the outskirts of Toowoomba, as a fitness/basic skills training area. It has some reasonable slopes and decents, little bit of relatively flat sections. It is pretty non-technical being access roads but for a beginner it allows me to build up handling skills.
The other area I ride is down on the granite belt in the state forests.
thanks for the replies and different view points.
The bike that I have and intend to keep for a while is a 2012 Merida Matts Trail 500. Old school 26er but the previous owner upgraded to XT hollowtech crankset, XT shadow plus RD and XT FD. I fitted a set of SLX M675 brakes and external routed dropper post. Just pruchased a set of DT Swiss M1800 wheels and a unused Fox fork to fit it. To get a new bike with similar build would cost me a fair bit.
The cassette is still pretty new so I will probably keep the 3x for the time being. The terrain I cover is a little varied. At the moment I am using Mt Peel, which is just on the outskirts of Toowoomba, as a fitness/basic skills training area. It has some reasonable slopes and decents, little bit of relatively flat sections. It is pretty non-technical being access roads but for a beginner it allows me to build up handling skills.
The other area I ride is down on the granite belt in the state forests.
Daisy
Likes Dirt
I work in finance & am a numbers guy in my mid 40's. Yes, feel free to make fun of my nickname as much as you like.
With the type of riding i do, eagle would be ideal for me with 500% ratio from its 10-50 cassette with 1x. However, there is NO way I can justify to spend that much coin for mtb drivetrain on 6yr old merida 120 dually 26inch wheels. Don't have money for new bike, so don't even go there.
I tried 1x with 30t & 11-42 but need 1 or 2 extra gears to get up that long, steep, shitty, god for saken road climb to the start of my local trail. Ratios 2.72 & 0.71 jst weren't enough - only 383%.
So...... I went back to 2x (don't judge me) to get a few 'extra' gears. Currently close ratio up front 32/26 with same 11-42 cassette. I now have ratios 2.91 & 0.62 which is 469% and that is JUST enough for me. By that, i mean i actually use highest & lowest gears EVERY ride. Sure i spin out on road downhill, but i can live with that.
My ideal drivetrain on budget is 2x10 26/34 with sunrace 11-42. Spacing between gears for sunrace cassette is perfect. I mean....... who needs that shimano 19&21 cogs on cassette with 10.5% difference. When i hit those gears, it feels like i haven't shifted at all. Sort your shit out shimano & produce cassettes that have AT LEAST 13 or 14% difference between shifts. Don't get me wrong, I am a massive shimano fan, it's just the 19&21 cogs that shit me.
Cheers, Daisy
With the type of riding i do, eagle would be ideal for me with 500% ratio from its 10-50 cassette with 1x. However, there is NO way I can justify to spend that much coin for mtb drivetrain on 6yr old merida 120 dually 26inch wheels. Don't have money for new bike, so don't even go there.
I tried 1x with 30t & 11-42 but need 1 or 2 extra gears to get up that long, steep, shitty, god for saken road climb to the start of my local trail. Ratios 2.72 & 0.71 jst weren't enough - only 383%.
So...... I went back to 2x (don't judge me) to get a few 'extra' gears. Currently close ratio up front 32/26 with same 11-42 cassette. I now have ratios 2.91 & 0.62 which is 469% and that is JUST enough for me. By that, i mean i actually use highest & lowest gears EVERY ride. Sure i spin out on road downhill, but i can live with that.
My ideal drivetrain on budget is 2x10 26/34 with sunrace 11-42. Spacing between gears for sunrace cassette is perfect. I mean....... who needs that shimano 19&21 cogs on cassette with 10.5% difference. When i hit those gears, it feels like i haven't shifted at all. Sort your shit out shimano & produce cassettes that have AT LEAST 13 or 14% difference between shifts. Don't get me wrong, I am a massive shimano fan, it's just the 19&21 cogs that shit me.
Cheers, Daisy
Daisy
Likes Dirt
Have you considered going 2x ? This will have ample gear range if you choose the right size chainrings & you will use ALL the gears.
Should be fine to use cheap chainrings, as long as the big one is ramped & pinned you will be fine.
Cheers, Daisy
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Hi Daisy,
Thanks for your reply. It's a shame that a 6 year old bike is deemed old, a reckon the actual physical lifespan of a reasonable bike would be probably 20 years with maintenance.
I pretty much use my 3x as a 2x now, only using the 42t on really flat sections but could easily manage with the 32t.
I guess I have a case of upgraditis and should waste money on a drive train that works pretty well.
Thanks for your reply. It's a shame that a 6 year old bike is deemed old, a reckon the actual physical lifespan of a reasonable bike would be probably 20 years with maintenance.
I pretty much use my 3x as a 2x now, only using the 42t on really flat sections but could easily manage with the 32t.
I guess I have a case of upgraditis and should waste money on a drive train that works pretty well.
Daisy
Likes Dirt
This is the best gearing calculator I've seen. Very user friendly & ability to have multiple setups to compare: http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com
All these numbers (ratios/percentages/etc) is my #2 wet dream
All these numbers (ratios/percentages/etc) is my #2 wet dream
Lazmo
Old and hopeless
On our 3x bikes, I've removed the big 42 ring using shorter chainring bolts, as we almost never use the 42 and the extra clearance without it is great for log-overs and obstacles. The 32 gets 99% of the use and when required I drop down to the 22 to save my 60 year old knees from carking it.
On my only actual 2x bike, I've replaced the stupid standard chainrings, which have you dropping to granny way too often, with 32 / 22 chainrings, and all is good.
I would rather have the weight and additional complexity of the Front Deraileur nice and central on the sprung bike, than have a massive unsprung expensive cassette.
On my only actual 2x bike, I've replaced the stupid standard chainrings, which have you dropping to granny way too often, with 32 / 22 chainrings, and all is good.
I would rather have the weight and additional complexity of the Front Deraileur nice and central on the sprung bike, than have a massive unsprung expensive cassette.
I would prefer smaller gear jumps down the business end of the cassette. Have a 11-32 11sp roadie cassette here that I need to get around to fitting. My old hardtail runs 3x with a 11-21 cassette. Awesome selection of gears and being a hardtail if 22/21 bogs in a little I just stand.
Bit of an update. I have decided to build a "new bike" using some parts of the merida and a Brand-x HT-01 frame. Will used the Fox fork with taper to straight steerer conversion headset and my DT Swiss 26" wheels. The fox fork turned out to be a 140 mm travel not 120 mm as the ebay seller said so that will work with the frame better.
After some research I found out that 11 speed rear mechs work with 10 speed drive trains and cope with wide range cassettes, saving the need for rad cages or goatlinks to cope with 42T sprocket and therefore is a cheaper option.
I have purchased a M8000 RD and HG50 11-42 10sp cassette from Merlin and a 10 speed Saint shifter from Taiwan. Got a cheaper 32T narrow-wide to start with.
Just have to wait for all the parts to arrive and start building.
After some research I found out that 11 speed rear mechs work with 10 speed drive trains and cope with wide range cassettes, saving the need for rad cages or goatlinks to cope with 42T sprocket and therefore is a cheaper option.
I have purchased a M8000 RD and HG50 11-42 10sp cassette from Merlin and a 10 speed Saint shifter from Taiwan. Got a cheaper 32T narrow-wide to start with.
Just have to wait for all the parts to arrive and start building.