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Don't use brakes, works every timeSo what's the fix for the wandering bite point ?
Bleed properly, pushing up, lever out, servo wave in...slight positive pressure in the system.So what's the fix for the wandering bite point ?
You are probably right as the PO fitted the brakes to the bike which has internal routing and may not have bled them properly.Bleed properly, pushing up, lever out, servo wave in...slight positive pressure in the system.
I can only assume this, as it be been running m8000’s on numerous bikes since 2015 and never suffered the issue
It’s very possible...or just needs fresh oil. 775’s never had the issue, but 785 and 8000’s oil turns metallic grey after a lot of use and feels spongy. Only real fix is to push fresh stuff in.You are probably right as the PO fitted the brakes to the bike which has internal routing and may not have bled them properly.
The bleed up fix will take 5-10min and only uses a few ml of fluid. Worth a crack before going the full bleed.So what's the fix for the wandering bite point ?
That's what I've found 90% of the time, but I've had 3 levers over the last 6 years that have done the wandering thing and needed extra help. And the lever feel may be able to be firmed up a bit, maybe.Have shimano brakes got harder to bleed?
I remember buying a bleed kit when I first upgraded a set of mtb brakes. They were m785s. I was expecting to fuck it right up.
Was as simple as fit brakes, cut lines to length, fit new olive and barb connect. Bleed was push some fluid up from caliper into cup till saw no bubbles. I never fluffed around bleeding levers. Always worked perfectly first time and only ever rebled to flush new fluid through.
no theyre still just as easy, and to install a new set Is just a quick lever bleed fit, just fit bleed cup and flick the lever a few times with 20ml or so in the cup, afterall they are pre-bled from factory and you are only getting rid of any are that may have entered when you removed the hose for install.. for a full bleed i just pump and bleed out of the bleed nipple as per any conventional brake keeping the bleed cup full. once you have new fluid coming out the bottom, tap along the length of cable and flick the lever a few times to eliminate any bubbles trapped, rotate lever back 30degrees, rotate lever forward 30 degrees to release air from any pockets in the lever, remove cup. never had an issue on zee's or saints.Have shimano brakes got harder to bleed?
I remember buying a bleed kit when I first upgraded a set of mtb brakes. They were m785s. I was expecting to fuck it right up.
Was as simple as fit brakes, cut lines to length, fit new olive and barb connect. Bleed was push some fluid up from caliper into cup till saw no bubbles. I never fluffed around bleeding levers. Always worked perfectly first time and only ever rebled to flush new fluid through.
I've just done what I think Moorey said to do... reverse bled a little until overflowed out the top fill, put the plug back in keeping it completely full, then put a little positive pressure on syringe and tightened the bleed nipple.The bleed up fix will take 5-10min and only uses a few ml of fluid. Worth a crack before going the full bleed.
Or buy avids, I hear they're far more reliable and much easier to bleed [/sarcasm]
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I've got 785's on another bike, they could do with being a bit spongy they are brutally grabby.It’s very possible...or just needs fresh oil. 775’s never had the issue, but 785 and 8000’s oil turns metallic grey after a lot of use and feels spongy. Only real fix is to push fresh stuff in.
Tried screwing the servo wave right in if not already?I've got 785's on another bike, they could do with being a bit spongy they are brutally grabby.
Nope, how do I do that ?Tried screwing the servo wave right in if not already?
I like the 785’s. Probably treated me better than m8000’s in the long run.
I told you before - changing the lever position does exactly nothing more than change the lever position; it is completely separate from the master piston position. Similarly, you can't twiddle the ServoWave; it's a linkage between the lever and the master piston pushrod. You can alter the master cylinder volume and stroke by adjusting the stroke screw - winding the screw in (on models where it is fitted) pushes the master piston down the bore, which then alters slave piston position/ pad clearance.Bleed properly, pushing up, lever out, servo wave in...slight positive pressure in the system.
This little fella. The free stroke screw. Screwed in, lever moves in slightly, but doesn’t bite as quick. Screw out for more bite. Anyone telling you it makes no difference is doing it wrongNope, how do I do that ?
Fark, aren’t you cranky and pedantic tonight, mate.I told you before - changing the lever position does exactly nothing more than change the lever position; it is completely separate from the master piston position. Similarly, you can't twiddle the ServoWave; it's a linkage between the lever and the master piston pushrod. You can alter the master cylinder volume and stroke by adjusting the stroke screw - winding the screw in (on models where it is fitted) pushes the master piston down the bore, which then alters slave piston position/ pad clearance.
For maximum system volume, back the stroke adjust screw right out, bleed the brake, pump up to set clearance, then advance the stroke adjust to reduce play if desired ,THEN set lever position with the reach knob.