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Thread: Spokes Prep a new wheels.

  1. #1
    Senior Member Rem's Avatar
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    Default Spokes Prep a new wheels.

    Hey Guys,

    I've been reading a lot of stuff for wheel building.

    I was wondering how do you guys prepare your spokes.

    A lot said just oil while building without thread locker, because when you reach the right tension the nipples should not unscrew.

    But some said you should use a light thread locker, and lubricate while putting in tension so you don't twist the spokes.
    Although I don't get the point to put oil or lub on thread locker... what's the point ?

    Any comments? what do you guys use?

    Cheers.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Knuckles's Avatar
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    No thread locker. Lightweight oil on the threads and on the nipple seats of the rim. Although I use a light coat of slicko because it's cleaner and I have a metric shit ton of it. When the wheel is tensioned and stress relieved properly, the spokes won't unwind.
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    Member linkl8r's Avatar
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    Loctite 222.

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    Senior Member Zaf's Avatar
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    General recommendation with DT Swiss spokes and pro-lock nipples is to keep them both completely clean. The Pro-lock nipples have a sort of nyloc compound on them already that should stop them from unwinding. I grease the nipple slightly on the surface that touches the rim for building stage and then once they're at tension I give it all a good brush clean with soapy water. I have also heard of people using linseed oil on the spoke threads with other builds, but couldn't tell you why that's recommended.

    Now my DT Swiss EX471/350 build has held extremely solid and held tensions perfectly; but I built up a friends Hope Pro 4's to Flow Mk3's with the same spoke/nipple combination and the rear wheel has had massive loss of tension in the spokes after a riding it, twice in a row with very little mileage. I've just finished re-tuning them for the second time, and this time bringing them right up the recommended max 125kgf spoke tension to see how they go. I had previously been conservative at the 110kgf mark. If they don't hold after this I might very well consider thread locker for that build, but it was a point of interest to get such different results with the same spoke/nipple combination.

    But I think it may vary. I'd be inclined to ask the guys over at Wheelworks what they do and follow that recommendation, their flite wheels are beautifully made and they're probably a good example to aspire to.

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    Senior Member Flow-Rider's Avatar
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    I personally wouldn't use any thread locker on MTB wheels, If you're constantly smashing into everything then they are going to need constant tweeking. I normally retension after the first 200-300kms and then roughly every 1000kms. When first building the wheel, your final tension is best done with the tyre mounted and run about 10psi above what you would most likely run at max. I've seen some people build wheels and then throw the tyre on and pump it up only to find all the spokes are loose again.
    "To avoid criticism say nothing, do nothing, be nothing." ~Aristotle.

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    Senior Member The Duckmeister's Avatar
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    I use grease, purely for the simplicity of just dunking the threads in a tub of the stuff.

    Locking compounds, even mild ones, can go & get fucked; I've broken or had to cut out too many spokes when trying to true a wheel because some fuckhead glued the fucking nipples on. DT Prolock have been among the worst offenders.
    Last edited by The Duckmeister; 02-06-2017 at 08:55 PM.
    Just ride the bloody thing and enjoy yourself!

    I build wheels... :wink:

  7. #7
    Senior Member The Duckmeister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zaf View Post
    I have also heard of people using linseed oil on the spoke threads with other builds, but couldn't tell you why that's recommended.
    Linseed oil is used by some people because it lubricates during assembly, but sets in to a sticky syrup, becoming a threadlocker. In my opinion you can jam that up the same orifice as your prolock nipples & other threadlocking compounds.
    Just ride the bloody thing and enjoy yourself!

    I build wheels... :wink:

  8. #8
    Senior Member Rem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Duckmeister View Post
    Linseed oil is used by some people because it lubricates during assembly, but sets in to a sticky syrup, becoming a threadlocker. In my opinion you can jam that up the same orifice as your prolock nipples & other threadlocking compounds.
    Yeah I've heard about Linseed oil.
    I might try that because I'm not super keen with thread locker. Even middle one.


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  9. #9
    Senior Member Flow-Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Duckmeister View Post
    Linseed oil is used by some people because it lubricates during assembly, but sets in to a sticky syrup, becoming a threadlocker. In my opinion you can jam that up the same orifice as your prolock nipples & other threadlocking compounds.
    I had to re-rim my XT wheel and prior someone had used linseed oil, it went dry and locked the nipples up like Loctite. I spent hours winding back and forth with adding thinners and penetrating spray but eventually they all came out.
    "To avoid criticism say nothing, do nothing, be nothing." ~Aristotle.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Rem's Avatar
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    Also to explain, I built a wheel for my sun, he is a down hill racer, and the wheel last 3 weeks. The rims was one of this Nukeproof Generator on sale at CRC laced on a formula hub with DB Swiss comp. I think the rim is as soft as butter as my son killed it in about 10 rides and one race. I've got a spare rim, same Nukeproof, so I'm going to build an other one. I didn't use any thread locker the first time so I thought it could be a reason. I don't think there was anything wrong with the built appart from that, we checked the tension often, the rim picked ding almost straight away.



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