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Thread: Collapsed Hub Bearing Removal

  1. #1
    Senior Member deadlegs's Avatar
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    Question Collapsed Hub Bearing Removal

    Hey Guys,
    I had a bearing collapse on my old 26er EASTON wheel set (DRIVE SIDE).
    I have the replacement bearings to go in.
    My question is does anyone have any DIY tricks on getting the collapsed bearing out without using a bearing puller.

    cheers,
    cam
    camoshop.V2

  2. #2
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    Cant get to it from the other side with a long flat head screwdriver and a hammer?

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    Senior Member Ultra Lord's Avatar
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    Heat gun? Small die grinder with a cutting disk attached (its a bitch but I have done it.)

    Failing that find a mate with a tig welder and add material to the inner of the ace and try and tap it out using a screw driver. Just dont weld the race onto the hub
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    Senior Member deadlegs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredden View Post
    Cant get to it from the other side with a long flat head screwdriver and a hammer?
    yeah i tried that but its on the free body side so its recessed and you cant get the the back edge of it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ultra Lord View Post
    Heat gun? Small die grinder with a cutting disk attached (its a bitch but I have done it.)

    Failing that find a mate with a tig welder and add material to the inner of the ace and try and tap it out using a screw driver. Just dont weld the race onto the hub
    might try the cutting disk option.

    cheers!!
    camoshop.V2

  5. #5
    Senior Member The Duckmeister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredden View Post
    Cant get to it from the other side with a long flat head screwdriver and a hammer?
    That's generally the first option, but when the bearing has shat itself & only the outer shell is left there's not much to hit against.
    Just ride the bloody thing and enjoy yourself!

    I build wheels... :wink:

  6. #6
    Senior Member Oddjob's Avatar
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    Safest option is to use blind bearing puller with correct size collete. Ring around local lbs or motorbike shops.

    Dremel with diamond stone would make short work of it but need to be careful not to cut through into the hub. Should be able to deform race with jewelers screwdriver when you are almost through.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
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  7. #7
    Senior Member hathill's Avatar
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    Default Use the percussive technique below.

    Is the bearing flush with the outside flange or recessed deeper into it?

    If the latter, maybe try a couple of sharp raps onto a soft-ish block of wood to see if it will move and give you access to the back of the shell you can then tap out with an appropriate tool/s.

    Edit: - Stupid me just realised this may be a bit difficult as it's still attached to the wheel. May work if it was the hub only.
    Last edited by hathill; 11-08-2017 at 04:40 PM.
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    Senior Member Knuckles's Avatar
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    Going to come across as flippant, but bin it and lace in a hope, any hope. They're practically bullet proof, but can be completely stripped by hand, and reassembled with nothing more specific than an appropriately sized socket, but 9 times out of 10, with a lump of wood, on the tray of a Ute, in a city lane way.

    Only being partially facetious.
    Last edited by Knuckles; 11-08-2017 at 06:02 PM.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Knuckles's Avatar
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    Don't heat, you will more than likely warp the alloy seat before you get enough temperature into hardened steel race. Similar goes for cutting, but you have the double jeopardy of over heating the seat, and/or scoring it with a high speed rotary tool.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Ultra Lord's Avatar
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    You dont want to get heat into the race, and the aluminium shell will expand long before the steel race and will require much less heat.

    If it was an inner race stuck on an aluminium shaft yeah, heat wont help.



    Your other post is bang on though.
    Last edited by Ultra Lord; 11-08-2017 at 06:29 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Knuckles View Post
    I rode Newtown, before it was cool.

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