Electric Guitar

Ham

Likes Bikes and Dirt
so i caved in and after ten years im getting my first guitar lesson, im getting them of dale from mourning tide with the focus on cleaning up my playing im a tad sloppy and with all the strat talk im probably selling my schecter and buying a strat.

What strat should i be lookin at with a $1500 budget?
 

ajay

^Once punched Jeff Kennett. Don't pick an e-fight
so i caved in and after ten years im getting my first guitar lesson, im getting them of dale from mourning tide with the focus on cleaning up my playing im a tad sloppy and with all the strat talk im probably selling my schecter and buying a strat.

What strat should i be lookin at with a $1500 budget?
Definitely a 2nd hand one!

Strats are a strange phenomena.... The place it was built and price dont always correlate to the quality so its usually a good idea to play one first (although I took my chances with ebay - and a got a good one for cheap).

In my opinion (and please, if you guys disagree, then im all ears!) the most fundamental and important part of the guitar is the neck, if you have a good neck then you are 90% of the way to having a potentially great instrument. The next thing is the join of the neck to the body and the allignment of the bridge. If those 3 things are tip-top, then you can put what ever pick ups you like, change the bridge, tuners, respray - whatever.

If you buy the american standard/deluxe you're also getting some nice sounding pick ups and better quality hardware, so keep that in mind. I bought a Jap strat (from 89-90 ish I think) which has Grover tuners - far better than the stock Fender tuners found on the American strats, but the pick ups were average at best.

I guess you can see where I'm going with this one, they are all different.

But, if it WERE my money, id probably go to a store that deals in 2nd hand strats (as in a store that sells a lot of em) and find a nice player from the mid 90's. Should get one for about $1300. Spend the other $200 on mods if you want them, or shout your better half a nice dinner, movie and ....something that rhymes with hand bag:p
 

rayza

Likes Dirt
Definitely a 2nd hand one!


In my opinion (and please, if you guys disagree, then im all ears!) the most fundamental and important part of the guitar is the neck, if you have a good neck then you are 90% of the way to having a potentially great instrument. The next thing is the join of the neck to the body and the allignment of the bridge. If those 3 things are tip-top, then you can put what ever pick ups you like, change the bridge, tuners, respray - whatever.
these are wise, wise words. try to play a variety of strats, new and old, before you buy, so you can get a good feel for the difference of feel between even identical looking guitars.
 

Richo 18

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I'm getting tired of going into stores and playing strats with bridges set between (no joke) 30* and 45*. I mean, wtf, the action on the VG strat I played today was like, bad enough that if you looked at the guitar side on, you had a clear right angled triangle.

Oh and I played a big board of T-Rex (I think) pedals today. Pretty good, one of them was just messed up, but they're all $500!? WTF!
 

Ham

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Definitely a 2nd hand one!

Strats are a strange phenomena.... The place it was built and price dont always correlate to the quality so its usually a good idea to play one first (although I took my chances with ebay - and a got a good one for cheap).

In my opinion (and please, if you guys disagree, then im all ears!) the most fundamental and important part of the guitar is the neck, if you have a good neck then you are 90% of the way to having a potentially great instrument. The next thing is the join of the neck to the body and the allignment of the bridge. If those 3 things are tip-top, then you can put what ever pick ups you like, change the bridge, tuners, respray - whatever.

If you buy the american standard/deluxe you're also getting some nice sounding pick ups and better quality hardware, so keep that in mind. I bought a Jap strat (from 89-90 ish I think) which has Grover tuners - far better than the stock Fender tuners found on the American strats, but the pick ups were average at best.

I guess you can see where I'm going with this one, they are all different.

But, if it WERE my money, id probably go to a store that deals in 2nd hand strats (as in a store that sells a lot of em) and find a nice player from the mid 90's. Should get one for about $1300. Spend the other $200 on mods if you want them, or shout your better half a nice dinner, movie and ....something that rhymes with hand bag:p
yeah i see your point i can always change pups and hardware but if the neck and body are bad theres no point, okay my strat search starts tomorow
 

bitterbro

Likes Dirt
Oh and I played a big board of T-Rex (I think) pedals today. Pretty good, one of them was just messed up, but they're all $500!? WTF!
T-rex pedals are nuts. I tried the T-rex replica delay and it was nuts. Then i found the mad proffessor deep blue delay. so similar, and a price difference of like $150. Which ones did you try?
 

LJohn

Likes Dirt
Oh and I played a big board of T-Rex (I think) pedals today. Pretty good, one of them was just messed up, but they're all $500!? WTF!
I hate companies that take boutique and use it as an excuse to charge ridiculous amounts.

Take a look at some of the smaller, truly unique builders, of which there are not many.


For most of these, schems, or variations on them, exist. Especially ODs/dists. They are usually relatively simple, and comparatively easy to make.
 

Richo 18

Likes Bikes and Dirt
T-rex pedals are nuts. I tried the T-rex replica delay and it was nuts. Then i found the mad proffessor deep blue delay. so similar, and a price difference of like $150. Which ones did you try?
Ok, just looked on the site, I'll try and remember the ones.

(Fuel Tank Juicy Lucy power supply)
Comp-Nova
Dr. Swamp
Moller
MudHoney
Replica
Tremster
Twin Boost
Twister
Reptile

Yeah.
All those ring a bell. There was one without a power supply at the start of the chain so I bypassed that, Comp-Nova.

All up about $5000 in one board.

I remember the MudHoney being good, looking at the site the only one I really want to try is the Alberta..
I think the Moller was pretty good, Replica had awesome delay and really easy to dial in.

Tremster sounded warm and lovely, sweet tremolo.

The Twin Boost was pretty cool but I think it was behind the overdrive box so it was a bit unusable (for me, I like the gain to go up more than the volume).

The Twister was really cool, the "Heavy/Light" switch is really useful, and it's got both chorus and a flanger/phaser thing which is pretty much all the modulation sound you'll ever need. Really subtle and beautiful on the light switch, then heavy is just outrageously weird to satisfy all of your experimental needs.

And then, there was the Reptile.
Which is just fucked up.

Play a note, then hear it come back like somebody repeating you and grabbing a whammy bar halfway through, and just dipping it.

"Biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiing."
"Bingyouuwww."

Seriously, had that off for the rest of the time.
 

rayza

Likes Dirt
again, i know this isnt a for sale forum, but i'd like to give some farkiners a chance to grab some parts if interested before i give them away on ebay. all prices include postage oz-wide.

Gibson Tony Iommi bridge pickup blackchrome cover: $100
Seymour Duncan Jazz SH-2n neck w/nickel cover: $80
Dirmazio DP161 - Steve's special: $50
Korg G3 multi fx pedal with power supply: $70
Strat style pickgaurd, 3ply BWB, HSS: $20
Wilkinson WVPCSB trem/bridge, includes all mounting hardware: $40
 

ajay

^Once punched Jeff Kennett. Don't pick an e-fight
The Twin Boost was pretty cool but I think it was behind the overdrive box so it was a bit unusable (for me, I like the gain to go up more than the volume).
Hmm I run my Booster before my O.D pedal and I dont really get much volume boost when the O.D pedal is engaged. It does push it harder though resulting in bucket loads more sustain...

I guess all boosts are different though.
 

rayza

Likes Dirt
|matt| - ive also got 3 sets of GHS zakk wylde boomers, 10-60's, if your interested. since im not using b tuning anymore. $25 posted
 

|Matt|

Banned
|matt| - ive also got 3 sets of GHS zakk wylde boomers, 10-60's, if your interested. since im not using b tuning anymore. $25 posted
Hey, if you still have them in a month or two when I'm not dead broke (not kidding, bank account is in the negatives at the moment) I'll probably take them off your hands.

I still haven't found my favourite strings for 7 string yet. I'm currently running my Ernie Ball Beefy Slinkies with a separately bought high E (the Beefys are a 6 string set) and its going well, I'll try a few more brands before I go and get a 10 pack though!
 

frostbite

Likes Dirt
Whats the best/cheapest way of sending a guitar from the USA to Australia? My mate bought a bass over here, and cause Im in the same state as the seller I picked it up to send it back. Now though we find its oversize for the postal service, and Im not having any luck finding decent rates to ship it back..
 

s7eve

Squid
If it is in a hard case USPS Global Express Guaranteed has larger size allowances and is going to be your cheapest option at about $300 USD.

If it doesn't have a hard case or if the hard case is easily replaceable in Australia you have two options.

1, If it has a bolt on neck, remove it and pack well, this is the cheapest way.
2, If it does not have a bolt on neck or you do not wish to remove the neck you can squeeze it into a 42" box on an angle and use one of the cheaper international shipping options USPS offer. The danger is that the headstock and body will be hard up against the edge of the box. I have received a few guitars that have been double boxed and bubble wrapped this way and they have survived but if I was sending it I would make sure that the guitar was well protected by solid packing foam and bubble wrapped and double boxed and insured.
 

Joy

Likes Dirt
If it is in a hard case USPS Global Express Guaranteed has larger size allowances and is going to be your cheapest option at about $300 USD.

If it doesn't have a hard case or if the hard case is easily replaceable in Australia you have two options.

1, If it has a bolt on neck, remove it and pack well, this is the cheapest way.
2, If it does not have a bolt on neck or you do not wish to remove the neck you can squeeze it into a 42" box on an angle and use one of the cheaper international shipping options USPS offer. The danger is that the headstock and body will be hard up against the edge of the box. I have received a few guitars that have been double boxed and bubble wrapped this way and they have survived but if I was sending it I would make sure that the guitar was well protected by solid packing foam and bubble wrapped and double boxed and insured.
Bass might be different though... longer neck/heavier etc
 

Richo 18

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Rahhhh

HALP.

Achoostik problem.

Today, was playing a root six D major chord, leaving the A string open ,(play this chord ALL the time so it's not an old problem, definitely new) and realised the A string buzzed like Wheel of Fortune. Nots so much as realise, but "HOLY SHIT what's going on!?"

Crazy buzz, doesn't sound normal either, different sounding buzz.

It's nutters, but it only happens when I have the D on the sixth string held down!?
 

|Matt|

Banned
Rahhhh

HALP.

Achoostik problem.

Today, was playing a root six D major chord, leaving the A string open ,(play this chord ALL the time so it's not an old problem, definitely new) and realised the A string buzzed like Wheel of Fortune. Nots so much as realise, but "HOLY SHIT what's going on!?"

Crazy buzz, doesn't sound normal either, different sounding buzz.

It's nutters, but it only happens when I have the D on the sixth string held down!?
Check that the string isn't bent. My guitar had that problem and it was just a bent string.
 

|Matt|

Banned
Okay, just had a play around, Dad helped, he held down above the string on the nut and it didn't buzz.. Nut problem then?
Does it only buzz on a certain fret, or in a certain area over a small number of frets? If your string is bent, pressing the fret will cause the bent part to touch the fret somewhere else on the string. E.G my D string was bent around the 4th fret, and when I tried playing the first fret, it would buzz like crazy because pressing down on one spot would press the bent part down onto another fret.

If that makes sense...:confused:
 
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