The Photo Snob Thread

saMfish

Likes Dirt


I like this new rig :> So much more experimentation to be done!
Also, f/22 sucks balls :\ Time to buy a set of ND's, I think.
 

alexx23

Likes Dirt
Liking all the shots above!

Two from a wedding yesterday, was feeling rusty as it was the first wedding of the season!





Both quick edits on my macbook track pad.
 

Rendog

Likes Bikes and Dirt
First one is alright, but the sun beaming down has brought upon lack of depth in the second one, wrecks it for me sorry!
 

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
First one is alright, but the sun beaming down has brought upon lack of depth in the second one, wrecks it for me sorry!
Interesting as I think he does this deliberately.

Veiling Flare, in its most subtle form, usually attacks the mid tone contrast range and would look very similar to this.

*shrugs*
 
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wazza2282

Likes Dirt
Hey all,

So the tamron 17-55 is having issues with the 7d, it has an error clean contacts. I have done so and it still presents the issue.
I have been wanting a replacement for a while now and i think this is now a good time. The lens works, but every time you take a picture, the error appears and you have to wait for it to go before previewing the image (really frustrating).

The tamron was never sharp at 2.8 so a replacement i would love to be useable at 2.8

I love L glass but the 2.8 in any L is probably more then i want to spend (unless i convince work to pay for it)

So any suggestions?

Cheers.
 

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Unfortunately less than optimum performance "at f/2.8" is something a lot of third party constant aperture zooms will have in common. The Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 is probably the better of the lot but if you're looking above that again, you'll probably need to jump into Canon.

If you're going to remain with APS-C format, then the most logical choice is the EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS. This is the lens for crop sensors and features the same ULD elements as it's 'L' brethren in addition to IS. It's not considered a 'pro' lens (despite the the price tag) so it's construction is predominantly plastic with no weather sealing, but it's optically sound. Locally you'd be looking around $1500 for the lens but I'm sure it could be sourced from somewhere online for a lot less.

From there, the obvious choice is the likes of the EF 24-70 f/2.8L though you will loose the 'wide' end on a 7D. Karnige182 (Jase) may be selling one of these shortly - maybe worth contacting him.

Have you considered getting the Tamron repaired at all? Variation between lenses does exist and you may find a different copy of the lens (or even just getting it repaired and re calibrated) may make the world of difference (as well as be much easier on your pocket!)

Good luck!
 

freeride-freak

Likes Dirt
Yo, I need some advice on some purchases I am about to make.

1. I need a good speedlight, something that has a good range of motion (swivel etc) and nikon TTL/i-TTL metering. So far i have found that without shelling out for a nikon speedlight, my best bet is a Sunpak PZ42X. Will mainly be used for events and club photography.

2. A good super-wide angle lens. My budget is $700 max, so far i have been looking at the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, and the Sigma 8-16 f/4.5-5.6 and the Tokina 12-24 f/4. Again, will mainly be used for parties and clubs, as well as some interior work.

Any input would be great, just to help make my mind up on what i am looking at so far. Also if anyone is selling anything they think is suitable, hit me up :)

Cheers
 
I got given a $50 voucher for print services at Vanbar last year from school for my work in art and I now have only a few days left to redeem it. I'm looking at getting quite a large print but I have been toying with the idea of getting a metallic print. However, I am way out of my league when it comes to this stuff. Can anyone shed some light on metallic printing? I'd sure appreciate it.
 

wombat

Lives in a hole
I got given a $50 voucher for print services at Vanbar last year from school for my work in art and I now have only a few days left to redeem it. I'm looking at getting quite a large print but I have been toying with the idea of getting a metallic print. However, I am way out of my league when it comes to this stuff. Can anyone shed some light on metallic printing? I'd sure appreciate it.
I've had some done before, firstly just some test prints to have a look, and then one that was a present for the girl's parents.

The stuff I had was on a Kodak paper (I think) from digitalworks. It's pretty self-explanatory really, the paper is a metallic base, so all the inks show up like they're metallic. The effect is much more pronounced on lighter and brighter shades though, and at least in the ones I had done was very subdued under black.
It's definately not the choice for many styles of photography, and can potentially be a bit gimmicky. The last one I had done though was a super-wide pano stitch of Sydney harbour at night, and the paper worked a treat. The dark areas were reasonably flat and normal, but the lights just sparkle and glow.

What shot are you planning on printing? That should dictate the media you use.
 

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
Yo, I need some advice on some purchases I am about to make.

1. I need a good speedlight, something that has a good range of motion (swivel etc) and nikon TTL/i-TTL metering. So far i have found that without shelling out for a nikon speedlight, my best bet is a Sunpak PZ42X. Will mainly be used for events and club photography.

2. A good super-wide angle lens. My budget is $700 max, so far i have been looking at the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, and the Sigma 8-16 f/4.5-5.6 and the Tokina 12-24 f/4. Again, will mainly be used for parties and clubs, as well as some interior work.

Any input would be great, just to help make my mind up on what i am looking at so far. Also if anyone is selling anything they think is suitable, hit me up :)

Cheers
1. If you're getting paid to shoot at these sorts of events and you're relying upon flash for your primary source of light, buy a Nikon flash. Older SB600 units can be had for a little over $200 in places ($317 new from DWI) - follow the age old saying 'Buy Once - Buy Well'.

2. Of that lot, I'd say the 11-16 is the best, purely for the wider aperture (invaluable for low light work). Zoom ratio may be smaller but the lens is optically sound and has a by far superior construction to that of other third party offerings (looking at you, Tamron and Sigma). Metal body feels very 'pro' and the AF/MF toggle clutch is a superb addition. Definitely recommended!

I've briefly used the 8-16 and whilst it was in the context of Landscape photography, I felt it was almost too wide - really did push central subject matter pretty far back. Cool effect but I personally shelve it with fisheyes etc.

12-24 is an older lens and from memory (c.2004?) - 11-16 is its 'update'. Good lens but most will point to the 11-16 as being the one to get.

*shrugs*
 
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I've had some done before, firstly just some test prints to have a look, and then one that was a present for the girl's parents.

The stuff I had was on a Kodak paper (I think) from digitalworks. It's pretty self-explanatory really, the paper is a metallic base, so all the inks show up like they're metallic. The effect is much more pronounced on lighter and brighter shades though, and at least in the ones I had done was very subdued under black.
It's definately not the choice for many styles of photography, and can potentially be a bit gimmicky. The last one I had done though was a super-wide pano stitch of Sydney harbour at night, and the paper worked a treat. The dark areas were reasonably flat and normal, but the lights just sparkle and glow.

What shot are you planning on printing? That should dictate the media you use.
Cheers for the info and advice.

Im trying to choose out of these three. I figured the metallic would look cool for the canola and the fence posts. Help choosing one would be appreciated also...







Also, is there any way of straightening the one of the fence posts without losing detail? Using straighten with my usual editing program, Picasa, makes the image quite soft.
 

sikpuppyonglory

Likes Dirt
I believe you're referring to the new AF-S 50mm f/1.8G?

Looks to be a solid little lens - the built-in AF motor will certainly appeal to those looking for a faster-focusing lens than the older AF 50mm f/1.8D so it should be well suited to the task.

This will be a very suitable 'portrait' focal length and if you want to dabble in macro photography, a set of Kenko Extension Tubes should suffice quite nicely. (Well, a 36mm tube on the 50mm lens should offer 0.87x magnification which is a little under true 'macro magnification' (1:1) so let's just say 'close up :p)

yeah that would be it, bloke at the camera shop gave me a quick demo of its close up ability for portrait & the macro aspect but he was a bit vague on the aspect of fast action shooting, this was more what I was leaning towards. I am running a tamron AF18-200mm f/3.5-6.3XR ld aspherical (if) macro lens on my D70S, so I was wondering if this lens would be just as good for close up fast action photography as the lens I am currently running as it seems to be the norm now buying new cameras you get 2 lens kit packages.
 

AngoXC

Wheel size expert
yeah that would be it, bloke at the camera shop gave me a quick demo of its close up ability for portrait & the macro aspect but he was a bit vague on the aspect of fast action shooting, this was more what I was leaning towards. I am running a tamron AF18-200mm f/3.5-6.3XR ld aspherical (if) macro lens on my D70S, so I was wondering if this lens would be just as good for close up fast action photography as the lens I am currently running as it seems to be the norm now buying new cameras you get 2 lens kit packages.
The 'twin lens kits' are just a more economical way of offering the typical consumer a solid focal length range. Such a kit is effectively covered by your Tamron lens.

I think the AF-S 50mm f/1.8 should suit your needs well. The AF-D style lenses operate off the screw drive built into the camera and whilst they are not slow by any means (well, at least for smaller primes), the AF-S system is much faster. Should be adequate enough for shooting moving bikes and the likes.

The only question from there is focal length - as I said, if you find 50mm too long, the 35mm f/1.8 is very similar and potentially more 'useful' (as a 'normal' lens) on your D70s.
 

wazza2282

Likes Dirt
Unfortunately less than optimum performance "at f/2.8" is something a lot of third party constant aperture zooms will have in common. The Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 is probably the better of the lot but if you're looking above that again, you'll probably need to jump into Canon.

If you're going to remain with APS-C format, then the most logical choice is the EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS. This is the lens for crop sensors and features the same ULD elements as it's 'L' brethren in addition to IS. It's not considered a 'pro' lens (despite the the price tag) so it's construction is predominantly plastic with no weather sealing, but it's optically sound. Locally you'd be looking around $1500 for the lens but I'm sure it could be sourced from somewhere online for a lot less.

From there, the obvious choice is the likes of the EF 24-70 f/2.8L though you will loose the 'wide' end on a 7D. Karnige182 (Jase) may be selling one of these shortly - maybe worth contacting him.

Have you considered getting the Tamron repaired at all? Variation between lenses does exist and you may find a different copy of the lens (or even just getting it repaired and re calibrated) may make the world of difference (as well as be much easier on your pocket!)

Good luck!
Thanks mate. I opened the lens up to f32 and then BOOM, it now works. Even at all Stops.
 

Oliver.

Liquid Productions
[video=youtube;e9-ElBPT3YY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9-ElBPT3YY[/video]

Bit of a shameless plug (well actually...not really!)

but I have recently spent some time filming with others for an upcoming Josh Pyke music vid, and it's only just started to really, really dawn on me how incredibly versatile DSLR's have become, and how they are able to cover so many new avenues that used to be much harder to get at.

Take the stuff in this video: I was essentially shooting at ISO3200, wide open for almost the whole video, and so were the others (you can tell). But it made me think....what did we used to have that was even capable of this sort of stuff in the past? If you consider taking out the big budget stuff, you are left with a 1/3 inch CCD and a big box, that required insane noise levels to even get a fraction of an image on screen.

Now you see full blown commercials shot on 5D, 7D etc. Perhaps it may be taking some of the prestige out of the video industry, but I think it also gives photographers a fantastic opportunity to expand their skillset.

I love the times we live in...so so rad!
 

Rendog

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Ahh, the HDSLR revolution, a very interesting one.

The best thing achieved by this was the push for larger sensors in pro-sumer video cameras.... eg, FS100, AF100.

I'm not against the HDSLR movement, as I own a GH2, but, the Cons far outweigh the Pros.
 

Jaydawgz

Likes Dirt
Yo, I need some advice on some purchases I am about to make.

1. I need a good speedlight, something that has a good range of motion (swivel etc) and nikon TTL/i-TTL metering. So far i have found that without shelling out for a nikon speedlight, my best bet is a Sunpak PZ42X. Will mainly be used for events and club photography.

2. A good super-wide angle lens. My budget is $700 max, so far i have been looking at the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, and the Sigma 8-16 f/4.5-5.6 and the Tokina 12-24 f/4. Again, will mainly be used for parties and clubs, as well as some interior work.

Any input would be great, just to help make my mind up on what i am looking at so far. Also if anyone is selling anything they think is suitable, hit me up :)

Cheers
Can I just say, that doing a lot of photos at parties and clubs(when I'm 18), I wouldn't use lenses this wide for this kind of thing. It'd be cool for effects, but for general shots, something from 24-100mm(full frame)
 
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