ChopSticks
Banned
did you bend the cranks or the rings?Fitted my new SLX cranks, after bending my one day old pair of Deore Cranks :frusty:
id be keen on those chainrings if there are undamaged
did you bend the cranks or the rings?Fitted my new SLX cranks, after bending my one day old pair of Deore Cranks :frusty:
interesting component....but $90 seems abit steep?..... you might aswell get a shorty x9 type2 and lock it out?Rod, you need one of these - Paul Components - Melvinhttp://www.paulcomp.com/melvin.html
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The 2.35 wouldn't be an issue on a 2010 crossmax st? I've heard bad things about high volume Tyres on narrow rims2.35 HighRoller, wouldn't bother with the UST, regular run tubeless fine
It must have at least a vertical axle path for the chain growth, so pretty bump compliant. But the back wheels the one banging into stuff more, so the big wheels good. and it's faster rolling for this bike. Different sized wheels suck, been there briefly. I'll slap a Works angle set in it. No point having the kooky long stays if your not running the big wheel. It's my girlfriends bike anyway. I'm getting a 650b trail-bike for myself ASAP.run a 26" on the back? or 27.5"
lower bb, slacker head angle, slide seat forward to compensate for slacker seat tube, win win?
I'm done with buying tensioners(not sure how I got red). Tried a DMR one before this one, and have Zerode and a Rohloff one already.I run a Yess ETR-D tensioner on my Anthem SS. It works very nicely
Yeah would be good. Ideally I'd make a new hanger specifically to run my Rohloff one(looks better built). Like my Rohloff one, that one wouldn't go over far enough for the Alfines chain line. Be fine with a Rohloff or Nuvinci, but not the Alfine. The mounting plate lines up perfectly where the hanger actually is, so a one piece hanger would be cool. I also nearly made something out of my broken derailleur draw, but damn Shiscamo and Scam make sure there's no reusing their shit by having funky mounting systems. Settled for what I have. Will see how it goes. I can chuck a chain guide on if needed, but I'm getting a staggered tooth Works Components chain ring soon, that'll keep it on better.Rod, you need one of these - Paul Components - Melvinhttp://www.paulcomp.com/melvin.html
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Are they compatible with the 1 1/4 size steerer?I'll slap a Works angle set in it.
Yeah. That's 44mm head-tube top, right?Are they compatible with the 1 1/4 size steerer?
Prepped my NS soda for a new shock, cannot wait!
i concur. have crossmark/high roller combo and love it.2.35 HighRoller, wouldn't bother with the UST, regular run tubeless fine
i havent had any issues with the 2.35 high roller on my 2010 crosslines (came factory that way too)The 2.35 wouldn't be an issue on a 2010 crossmax st? I've heard bad things about high volume Tyres on narrow rims
If you can be bothered, can you do my 2013 Anthem? I was surprised by the amount of chain growth.Special request for Chopsticks - SB66...
Yeah it's not 44mm. I can't find what diameter the top headtube is in a quick google search. But if Works don't make it, I'll ask them to and pretty sure they will.I had a look at the works component site all seem to be for 1 1/8 to 1.5 (tapered) or straight 1 1/8. Did a quick look through google doesn't look like it, email them perhaps?
Add another reason to hate that 1 1/4 steerer size...
Looks like you might open another market for works components when you ask them to make you a set, surprised they haven't done a set already.Yeah it's not 44mm. I can't find what diameter the top headtube is in a quick google search. But if Works don't make it, I'll ask them to and pretty sure they will.
They may have but just not put it on their site yet. They're pretty flat out.Looks like you might open another market for works components when you ask them to make you a set, surprised they haven't done a set already.
It'll be the same, 'cos the linkages haven't changed.If you can be bothered, can you do my 2013 Anthem? I was surprised by the amount of chain growth.
Every time I pay for linkage to do it, I get to a Mac inspired dead end, then loose codes and shit and give up.
It'll be the same as something I don't know, LOL. What was the 2012 axle path/chain growth?It'll be the same, 'cos the linkages haven't changed.
Yeah your right. Axle distance back, Chain stay growth.
32/15 is gearing, because it'd change marginally in different gears. Some bikes are designed for more chain growth in different(lower) gears, to help climbing by fighting the suspensions actuation with chain torque when pedaling.
The Yeti for example. Up to 70mm travel, the pedaling forces will fight the suspension making it stiffer(when pedaling).
Larger front ring decreases this effect and so on.
Lots and lots of variables and other things to consider. Every bike is a balance of compromises, you need to pick the best one for you. Leverage curves and shock damping can also have a similar desired effect to the chain growth. Personally, I like lots of chainstay growth(rearward axle path), but not to much chain growth(conundrum), as far as the graphs are concerned, but that's looking at it from just bump eating reasons mainly. I want the suspension to best be suited to fun riding and speed, others might prefer or define fun as climbing or accelerating, or efficiency. There's no real right and wrong(debatable), but there's better and worse solutions or ways to skin a cat. Ask the Farkiners what you want your specific bike to do. and you should get some experienced answers.thanks for the explanation Rodney!
so....what makes a good bike/graph? I havent ridden long enough/enough bike to 'know'
Is chain growth good or bad? what does chain growth affect? if anything?
what 'should' the grapgh of a good bike look like? ie less axle movement in the x-axis?
I sort of know this is like asking 'What is the best bike avaliable', but what are some traits to look out for which are desirable in a bike?