New bike time!

[Dilstub]

Okay, seeing as I'm incapable of making my own decisions, I've turned to you lot.
I recently cracked my 2013 rune, which was set up as a bit of a mini-DH bike, and used to solely get used for shuttle days/ pushing up things.

End of last year, I managed to completely fuck up my knee skiing, and only got back on the bike a 4 months ago. Since then, I've almost completely stopped riding DH, and started riding more AM stuff like buller, buxton, lysterfield, smiths gully, forrest. Looking into racing a few of the vic gravity enduros and travelling to NZ/Europe to ride next year too.
Unsurprisingly, a coil-sprung 32lb bike with a 64.5 HA wasn't ideal for most of that stuff. I still managed to pull it up most of the climbs and it was awesome coming back down, but now that I'm in the market for a new frame I'm after something that'll come in a bit lighter and deal with climbing for a few hours a little nicer than the previous rig.
Currently considering a V3 nomad, SB6/5c, 650B enduro, transition patrol/scout, and am open to other frame suggestions (except banshee, want to try something new). I'm not sure if the nomad, or any of the other 160mm+ bikes will be way too much bike and too DH-focused for me, considering the rune has manageable but very tiring over the course of a whole day's riding. Should I stick with a 160mm bike or go smaller?
Thanks!

 

[bikeyoulongtime]

This is pretty much my standard answer to this question:

Get a liteville 301. It won't crack anytime soon, the warranty is still good if you go racing on it, and can be built light enough to pedal anyplace. In short, you can ride it around buller all day and still have gas in the tank to smoke klingsporn on the way home.

 

[chaos99]

Where did the Rune crack?

Just curious

 

[Zaf]

I recon you might want something like an SB5c, Bronson, Stumpy, . Enough burl to it to be flogged around, and light enough to go all day.

I'm going to try to get down to Vic for some of the Enduro rounds these coming months and I'm likely to take my Stumpy instead of my SB66.

But that said, none of the big 160mm rigs of the current generation are slouching bikes in any regard. They all pedal well, and are light, but going to the 140-150mm mark means that you usually get the geo numbers that are a bit more playful and less designed for outright racing stability.

 

[Dilstub]

Where did the Rune crack?

Just curious

Me and a few other guys I know cracked theirs at the upper shock mount. Banshee have revised the design on the 2016 frames though, so it should be fixed from here I think.

Had a bit of a look at the liteville, not overly keen on it. I can see why you'd suggest it and it does make sense, I just can't get over the differing wheel sizes.

 

[bikeyoulongtime]

Had a bit of a look at the liteville, not overly keen on it. I can see why you'd suggest it and it does make sense, I just can't get over the differing wheel sizes.

I run it with the same size wheels. If mine was a dedicated race machine or I had a 601 I'd give the different wheel size approach a shot. FWIW the mk12 also fits 650b rubber in either chainstay length.

But hey, horses for courses. It took 5 years for it to grow on me, thought it was one weird-ass bike the first time I saw it...

...and there's plenty of amazingly capable competition. For some reason I can't bring myself to carbon, so knollys and transitions are also pretty hot right now for me

 

[Dilstub]

I recon you might want something like an SB5c, Bronson, Stumpy, . Enough burl to it to be flogged around, and enough light to go all day on it.

I'm going to try to get down to Vic for some of the Enduro rounds these coming months and I'm likely to take my Stumpy instead of my SB66.

But that said, none of the big 160mm rigs of the current generation are slouching bikes in any regard. They all pedal well, and are light, but going to the 140-150mm mark means that you usually get the geo numbers that are a bit more playful and less designed for outright racing stability.

I chucked some numbers together, if I build up a nomad with 10spd XT and some alright parts, it comes in at just over 12kg, which is plenty light. I'm more concerned with how a 65 degree HA and the associated wheelbase is going to go. You're right in that it's the geo that's the issue here. This is also gonna be the only bike I own, so I don't want to compromise too much on the descending factor as well.

 

[Zaf]

Completely understand. I almost bought a Nomad frame recently, but I've just had my Stumpy warranty replaced to the latest 2016 model and only a few rides in the bike shows a LOT of promise (1 second off my best time on the first ride down a fairly rowdy descent, a time set by my SB66c which has had 4500km under its belt..So my most familiar bike).

Any of the modern 160mm rigs are going to be wicked all day machines and if you still want a shred sled, go them, but don't discount the 140-150mm rigs, because they're absolutely insane these days as well.

Would you buy frame only and build it up? Or you planning on poaching bits of kit from the Rune?

I've picked up a Vivid R2C and a 160mm air shaft for the Yeti's Pike now that I have the Stumpy. No harm in burling it out now that the Stumpy fills that middle ground so well.

XT 11speed Nomad with some solid squish front and rear and some Light Bicycle wide rims will be a wicked ride though, probably won't break the bank either.

 

[Dilstub]

Completely understand. I almost bought a Nomad frame recently, but I've just had my Stumpy warranty replaced to the latest 2016 model and only a few rides in the bike shows a LOT of promise (1 second off my best time on the first ride down a fairly rowdy descent, a time set by my SB66c which has had 4500km under its belt..So my most familiar bike).

Any of the modern 160mm rigs are going to be wicked all day machines and if you still want a shred sled, go them, but don't discount the 140-150mm rigs, because they're absolutely insane these days as well.

Would you buy frame only and build it up? Or you planning on poaching bits of kit from the Rune?

I've picked up a Vivid R2C and a 160mm air shaft for the Yeti's Pike now that I have the Stumpy. No harm in burling it out now that the Stumpy fills that middle ground so well.

XT 11speed Nomad with some solid squish front and rear and some Light Bicycle wide rims will be a wicked ride though, probably won't break the bank either.

Going to go frame only. Parts are pretty much sorted, going for a Monarch/Pike combo, some e13 rims that weigh in the same as carbon, then stealing my shifting and brakes from the rune. Have heard terrible things about 11 speed shimano, plus 32/11-36 is easily enough gears as the rune got by fine on 34/11-34. New wheels/cranks/fork will be the only real changes.

I definitely think 140/150mm is the sweet spot, but the SB/Scout at 125 might be a tad too short-travel for what I want.

 

[Zaf]

I've got XTR 11spd with an 11-42 XT cassette on the Stumpy and it's some of the smoothest shifting kit I've ever used, so smooth I thought I'd screwed the indexing when I first took it out because I couldn't feel it through my feet when it shifted.

That setup only costs $400 as well, shifter, derailleur and cassette wise, I wouldn't write it off.

Sounds like a solid bike, I'm subscribed! Keep us posted on progress.

 

[JTmofo]

I went from a 150mm Piked Spitfire to a SB6c.

I was worried at the time that I should have gone something a little less slack (65.5deg with a 160 fork) like an SB5 or Bronson, but I can honestly say I am stoked that I went down the SB6 route.
It's a little less slack than a Nomad, weighs in at about 12.9kgs (although I've not weighed in a long time) pedals and climbs well enough to stick with riding buddies on trails on Fuel EX/Trances/Niner RIP's without much hassle, and is a loonatic when it gets rough and points down.

 

[Boom King]

Me and a few other guys I know cracked theirs at the upper shock mount. Banshee have revised the design on the 2016 frames though, so it should be fixed from here I think.

Had a bit of a look at the liteville, not overly keen on it. I can see why you'd suggest it and it does make sense, I just can't get over the differing wheel sizes.

Just keep riding it, it's not an issue. They crack at the uppermost weld out of the three mount welds on the down tube. Will never fail completely. $90 fix if you really want to, plus a couple of hundy for paint matching.

If you do turf the frame, I'll happily take it off your hands.

 

[Dilstub]

Just keep riding it, it's not an issue. They crack at the uppermost weld out of the three mount welds on the down tube. Will never fail completely. $90 fix if you really want to, plus a couple of hundy for paint matching.

If you do turf the frame, I'll happily take it off your hands.

I've been watching it for the last few months, it's grown a little but hasn't got too bad. Happy to keep riding it until its replacement arrives. I'll PM you when I do replace it I reckon.
I'm in the market for a new bike regardless though, it's starting to feel its age and I'd like to try something else.

 

[Boom King]

I've been watching it for the last few months, it's grown a little but hasn't got too bad. Happy to keep riding it until its replacement arrives. I'll PM you when I do replace it I reckon.
I'm in the market for a new bike regardless though, it's starting to feel its age and I'd like to try something else.

Sweet, I'm collecting Runes. Love 'em.

 

[Dilstub]

I went from a 150mm Piked Spitfire to a SB6c.

I was worried at the time that I should have gone something a little less slack (65.5deg with a 160 fork) like an SB5 or Bronson, but I can honestly say I am stoked that I went down the SB6 route.
It's a little less slack than a Nomad, weighs in at about 12.9kgs (although I've not weighed in a long time) pedals and climbs well enough to stick with riding buddies on trails on Fuel EX/Trances/Niner RIP's without much hassle, and is a loonatic when it gets rough and points down.

the sb6c is an awesomely thought-out bike, I'm honestly not surprised it climbs as well as some of those other rigs. the frame being an extra 700 over the nomad is a bit of a stretch for me though. still considering it though, if I can test-ride one.

 

[Zaf]

the sb6c is an awesomely thought-out bike, I'm honestly not surprised it climbs as well as some of those other rigs. the frame being an extra 700 over the nomad is a bit of a stretch for me though. still considering it though, if I can test-ride one.

Exact same logic I saw. For The Riders had a magenta/cyan Nomad with monarch plus in my size for $3,500 not long ago, I wanted to buy it on principle of it being a great deal.

I love my Yeti, no doubts about it, but VPP and Switch are both clever takes on a similar suspension curve, and Santa Cruz aren't as expensive, have lifetime warranty and amazing build quality. I don't think I could make myself buy an SB6c unless it was a really good deal... Kind of why I'm sticking with the SB66c for now, if I can ride the life out of it before September, I know what they warranty these with.

Transition Patrol Carbon look pretty good, as do the new Nukeproof Megas if you're committed to the 160mm route. Probably short-list an Evil Insurgent and a Rocky Mountain Altitude as well.

 

[Dilstub]

Exact same logic I saw. For The Riders had a magenta/cyan Nomad with monarch plus in my size for $3,500 not long ago, I wanted to buy it on principle of it being a great deal.

I love my Yeti, no doubts about it, but VPP and Switch are both clever takes on a similar suspension curve, and Santa Cruz aren't as expensive, have lifetime warranty and amazing build quality. I don't think I could make myself buy an SB6c unless it was a really good deal... Kind of why I'm sticking with the SB66c for now, if I can ride the life out of it before September, I know what they warranty these with.

Transition Patrol Carbon look pretty good, as do the new Nukeproof Megas if you're committed to the 160mm route. Probably short-list an Evil Insurgent and a Rocky Mountain Altitude as well.

Yeah, that's pretty much my thinking too. Hopefully you can crack it by then
I know they say they've fixed the swingarm issue, but almost every bike they've made has had chainstay issues(sb66/75/95) and I'm not keen to take that gamble on a 5.5k frame.
Transition is out on the basis of the two-year warranty.
I wouldn't mind an insurgent, although from talking to a few owners they don't pedal too well with the slack ST angle. Still, they do look amazing.
Rocky mountain is definitely out, I've had enough 2010-12 banshees to know how much bushings suck.

I think I might just stick with a 160mm bike. Anything will climb better than the rune, which itself kept up, and it'll be nice to have the extra versatility for riding trips. From what I hear, a 140mm bike is gonna climb about 5-10% better, whereas a 160mm bike is gonna descend 15% better, and for me that's an acceptable trade-off.

 

[Zaf]

Well there's a few boxes ticked!
Now... Boost or 142x12? Because that will narrow it down a little further.

I'm calling it now though, you're going to end up with a Nomad. You'll flirt with a few other options then find a good deal and turn money into bike. So real question now is, which colour? Remember that black is out for 2016!

 

[Mywifesirrational]

if your pondering Rune on the Nomad, my thoughts are in the later pages (12ish onwards), ad they haven't changed.

Nomad is an awesome enduro race bike, but will make an average all rounder.

http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/sho...y-balls-off-start-of-a-new-build-essay/page12

 

[Dilstub]

if your pondering Rune on the Nomad, my thoughts are in the later pages (12ish onwards), ad they haven't changed.

Nomad is an awesome enduro race bike, but will make an average all rounder.

http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/sho...y-balls-off-start-of-a-new-build-essay/page12

Makes for very interesting reading, thanks for the link. I'll admit i'm very surprised with the results and probably need to throw a leg over one myself. Is the youies representative of most of your riding?
The rune is a sick bike, no doubt about it, but they won't run 26" properly for 2016 and onwards. So I'm stuck going over to 650B whatever happens it seems like.

Doing a bit of geometry comparing, the nomad seems super similar, even comparing 650B to 26". half an inch longer wheelbase, steeper STA, 0.15" longer chainstays. Nothing that would suggest it to corner and descend worse, other than the CCDBA, which might just be the worst shock I've ever tried. The monarch and then the RC4 that I switched to on the rune transformed the thing from average into a magic carpet ride.

One of the big things I took out of it was that pikes might be a bit flexy for a true AM fork. I'm into oly/powerlifting as well(80kg though, so a bit lighter), and ruined a set of lyriks at the crown last year. Onto another set of tapered ones that have been fine so far... HSC can be adjusted via shimstack, so that doesn't worry me unduly. Might have to test-ride one of those too and see how much they flex.