The stupid questions thread.

trelreign

trelreign

Squid
Flow-Rider said:
Anyone here knows much about these foldable hand saws ? I need something that's compact and can cut through Iron bark trees, I've used a friend's cheap bunnings branded saw, and it wasn't great.

Seen some good reviews on the Silky Gomboy hand saw, any good or shit ?


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I've had a Silky Saw PocketBoy with 170mm curved medium tooth blade for a few months. It's been great and well worth it. The Gomboy was sold out so I got this to check the quality out. I'm happy with it, it's built well and does what it's meant to do.

Curved blade is meant to be better cutting above and below you, which is 99% of my use. I'm cutting dead fallen trees enough to move off-trail myself and green overhanging branches partially snapped off their tree, up to 6 " diameter so far.

It makes short work of everything I've tried, still as sharp as it started.

It easily fits in my pocket without the case, or hangs off my belt in its case when clearing trails but I put it in my bag when I stop work and start riding.

I'll get a bigger Silky Saw when the time's right. They have some cool axes and massive saws in their lineup that I want but can't justify, yet.
 
H

HamboCairns

Thanks for all the bananas
silentbutdeadly said:
Nice choice but be gentle with it. If there's a next time try one of the Barnel saws from these lads https://www.forestrytools.com.au/index.php?id=23 We run one of their big pole saws and the 150mm folding saw plus the little Bahco number. There's no a lot they can't cut and they last and last.

The Silky saws from Japan do cut very nicely but they are more of a gardening tool than a rough and tumble tree cutting tool.
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I feel the need to carry a pocket saw sometimes too.
Do you think the Barnel Z210 150mm Folding Tiger Tooth Saw would be a good companion for casual trail branches etc (not tree limbs!)
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
trelreign said:
I've had a Silky Saw PocketBoy with 170mm curved medium tooth blade for a few months. It's been great and well worth it. The Gomboy was sold out so I got this to check the quality out. I'm happy with it, it's built well and does what it's meant to do.

Curved blade is meant to be better cutting above and below you, which is 99% of my use. I'm cutting dead fallen trees enough to move off-trail myself and green overhanging branches partially snapped off their tree, up to 6 " diameter so far.

It makes short work of everything I've tried, still as sharp as it started.

It easily fits in my pocket without the case, or hangs off my belt in its case when clearing trails but I put it in my bag when I stop work and start riding.

I'll get a bigger Silky Saw when the time's right. They have some cool axes and massive saws in their lineup that I want but can't justify, yet.
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Silky saws above the Gomboy are more directed at cutting green wood or soft wood, the pitch between the teeth is larger and the blades are also a fraction thicker than the Gomboy but saying that you can buy different pitched blades for them, even though not cheap. They seem to be the gold standard of foldable saws by looking at them.
 
trelreign

trelreign

Squid
Yeah for sure, this medium tooth curved blade is great for dry wood, it will do green but does get hung up a lot more. It's serving its purpose well though and if I do find something out of its ability, I can go back later with the right equipment. A mate has a small/medium electric chainsaw which is worth its weight in gold for bigger stuff.

I don't need to cut much green wood and don't like clearing trees for the sake of it. I'm not corridor-clearing or building, just run a rake down the lines now and then and drag branches off trail. A big part of the hillside is dense with casurinas and not sure what other species, live and dead, and they're always falling and dropping limbs. Most I can drag off the trail, some get caught up in 5 other trees and need to be cut so I can move them.

I have a slightly bigger Fiskars folding saw i got at Mitre 10. It was great for a few missions but feels noticeably blunter already. It's kind of in the middle where it's too big for a quick pocket size saw but too small for anything that would really call for a bigger blade. I'm not sure if it can be sharpened but I don't think so.

There is a massive tree down at the end of a great trail, I made a go-around last year, but a 1m Katana Boy would take care of it for sure. I'll be going for a size up from the Gomboy i reckon, to cover most of the range I really can use.

Edit
These guys are not bad for pricing, some higher some lower than Silkys website. They're local for me, good experience ordering a few things from them and could go collect if I was in a hurry.

Survival Supplies Australia
 
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silentbutdeadly

silentbutdeadly

has some good things to say
HamboCairns said:
I feel the need to carry a pocket saw sometimes too.
Do you think the Barnel Z210 150mm Folding Tiger Tooth Saw would be a good companion for casual trail branches etc (not tree limbs!)
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You could do a lot worse. They are a good little saw but just be aware that, unless your target is reasonably stout (think 50mm or better) then a good secatuer like those from Felco, Barnel or Lowe would be more practical. The first two are available from that site I linked to and I'd pick Felco as my first choice brand...
 
beeb

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Are Felco still good, I heard their quality dropped off a few years back?
 
Isaakk

Isaakk

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Can you combine Lyrik CSU with Pike lowers? Is there any difference structurally between Pike/Lyrik lowers?
 
leitch

leitch

Feelin' a bit rrranty
moorey said:
Lyrik stanchions are internally thicker...
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Sure about this? Might depend on the year. The seal head and Luftkappe was a direct swap from my old Pike into the Lyrik that replaced it which suggests stanchion wall thickness is the same.
 
moorey

moorey

call me Mia
leitch said:
Sure about this? Might depend on the year. The seal head and Luftkappe was a direct swap from my old Pike into the Lyrik that replaced it which suggests stanchion wall thickness is the same.
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It’s the reason old red pike tokens won’t fit in lyriks. They all use universal thinner grey ones now....unless someone chimes up and corrects me.
 
leitch

leitch

Feelin' a bit rrranty
moorey said:
It’s the reason old red pike tokens won’t fit in lyriks. They all use universal thinner grey ones now....unless someone chimes up and corrects me.
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KK, change must have preceded the 2016 Pike/Lyrik then as both used the grey tokens and as above the air piston was the same dia.
 
Isaakk

Isaakk

Likes Bikes and Dirt
So would seem the primary difference in stiffness comes from increased length & not change in thickness of the stanchion wall - at least in newer forks? Interesting. Kind of want to try it, but getting a CSU for a fork I don't have isn't exactly a cheap venture.
 
Dales Cannon

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Just finished puttimg something like 60L of weed killer around the fences, on paving etc. What do burners use that isnt glyphosate based? I tried a non nasty product and it was great except it didnt kill any plant matter. Using a frog friendly formula but is still glyphosate based. Anyone? @moorey?
 
pink poodle

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
On a significantly smaller scale than you're talking about, I use boiling water. It kills off the weeds in my courtyard quick smart. I'm not sure it's the solution you're after though.
 
Litenbror

Litenbror

Eats Squid
Dales Cannon said:
Just finished puttimg something like 60L of weed killer around the fences, on paving etc. What do burners use that isnt glyphosate based? I tried a non nasty product and it was great except it didnt kill any plant matter. Using a frog friendly formula but is still glyphosate based. Anyone? @moorey?
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I know someone who works in this space and there isn't anything that is anywhere near as good as Glyphosate but less nasty. For small areas boiling water is the best but it sounds like your doing a large area.
 
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