Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

ozzybmx

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
zac said:
I was kinda hoping to avoid the diy snipping but half expecting to have to do it. Thanks for the help, much appreciated
Click to expand...
You can get these little crimps called 'Power theives' I own some but have never used them on my vehicle, opting for the solder and heatshrink or crimps.

These slice the insulation and tap in to both wires, joining them together.

Lightbars draw a bit of juice though.

41lufO-ebnL._AC_UF350,350_QL80_.jpg
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
ozzybmx said:
You can get these little crimps called 'Power theives' I own some but have never used them on my vehicle, opting for the solder and heatshrink or crimps.

These slice the insulation and tap in to both wires, joining them together.

Lightbars draw a bit of juice though.

View attachment 405902
Click to expand...
Scotch locks those critters are called, they don't work very well in the long term.

Most of the problems with taillights I've found over the years of servicing cars were cheap towbar installations with these fitted.
 
ozzybmx

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Flow-Rider said:
Scotch locks those critters are called, they don't work very well in the long term.

Most of the problems with taillights I've found over the years of servicing cars were cheap towbar installations with these fitted.
Click to expand...
Yeah, open to corrosion and coming loose if not fitted right. Cant beat crimps or solder.
 
oldcorollas

oldcorollas

Levin the moment
if you want to be able to unplug....

Jaycar has nice 4 pin Deutsch connector set with pins for $13 (rated to 13A.... so depends on light bar power
1704189455660.png


or for less stuffing around with pins (but not pretty), pigtailed 4 pin (trailer type?) for $12 (still solder and heatshrink to it)
1704189340444.png


then there's the good old 250 series... only rated to 15A max, but cheap and not waterproof.. have melted a few of these :p

These are 20A and seal OK. WeatherPacks are my backup when i can't find a nicer plug in time :p (have a set of them)
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Weather Pack Kits Archives

Our Weather Pack kits contains everything you need to get your project done right! These weather pack MegaSquirt wiring kits come in multiple quantities
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Jaycar has a copy(?) version
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beeb

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
oldcorollas said:
yeah noticed that about the height adjuster...
when does it get voltage on the car? :)
Click to expand...
Probably only when you're adjusting the headlight height. Not sure if there's a manual dial, or it reads off of a level sensor somewhere but I doubt it would provide a constant supply. Technically/legally speaking driving lights should be wired up so they can only come on when your high-beams are on anyway, so maybe see if you can get a wiring diagram to follow. You might also want to use the existing highbeam trigger/circuit to operate a relay (drawing from a fused power supply) so you don't risk overloading wires and risking letting the smoke out.
 
ozzybmx

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
beeb said:
Probably only when you're adjusting the headlight height. Not sure if there's a manual dial, or it reads off of a level sensor somewhere but I doubt it would provide a constant supply. Technically/legally speaking driving lights should be wired up so they can only come on when your high-beams are on anyway, so maybe see if you can get a wiring diagram to follow. You might also want to use the existing highbeam trigger/circuit to operate a relay (drawing from a fused power supply) so you don't risk overloading wires and risking letting the smoke out.
Click to expand...
These are the thing @beeb speaks of. Available at any electronics or 4WD store.

Power to full beam globe goes to 85 and 86, a power thief can take the pos and neg to the relay. Positive to lightbar goes 30-87.

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Narva Mini Relay 4 Pin 12V 40A Resistor Protected N/O

Narva Mini Relay 4 Pin 12V 40A Resistor Protected N/O 12V 40Amp 4 Pin Normal Open Relay Resistor Protected
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Dales Cannon

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
zac said:
Probably a stupid question but has anyone had any experience with light bars on newer cars? Trying to install one of those number plate bars on a Haval H2 and the headlight jack is completely different to anything I've seen before. I've looked at supercheap etc and tried to find an adaptor with no luck - anyone got any ideas?

View attachment 405900
Click to expand...
zac said:
I was kinda hoping to avoid the diy snipping but half expecting to have to do it. Thanks for the help, much appreciated
Click to expand...
Yes. LED lights so 12V on all the time and an ac signal applied to change from low to high thus no way to tap into lights for a 12V trigger. Check you dont have a canbus arrangement and that on high beam there is a discrete 12V signal on one of those wires. If yes then look for words and letters on the plugs and get hambo to ask beeb to google that. I found plugs but that was useless. I have had to buy a signal emulator and interpreter. Not huge $ but a huge pita.
 
Dales Cannon

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
ozzybmx said:
You can get these little crimps called 'Power theives' I own some but have never used them on my vehicle, opting for the solder and heatshrink or crimps.

These slice the insulation and tap in to both wires, joining them together.

Lightbars draw a bit of juice though.

View attachment 405902
Click to expand...
Flow-Rider said:
Scotch locks those critters are called, they don't work very well in the long term.

Most of the problems with taillights I've found over the years of servicing cars were cheap towbar installations with these fitted.
Click to expand...
NO! Do it properly. If you have a discrete 12V signal steal that with a patch cable or bare the wire and solder and use the tapped line to trigger a relay.
 
Dales Cannon

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
With a multimeter or 12V globe you can check which wire, if any, has 12V when high beam is on. If not make sure it isn't neg switched like the odd Japanese car can be. Still easy to wire up.
 
oldcorollas

oldcorollas

Levin the moment
beeb said:
Probably only when you're adjusting the headlight height. Not sure if there's a manual dial, or it reads off of a level sensor somewhere but I doubt it would provide a constant supply. Technically/legally speaking driving lights should be wired up so they can only come on when your high-beams are on anyway, so maybe see if you can get a wiring diagram to follow. You might also want to use the existing highbeam trigger/circuit to operate a relay (drawing from a fused power supply) so you don't risk overloading wires and risking letting the smoke out.
Click to expand...
there is a Russian language ( :eek: ) wiring diagram for H2 here.... but weird thing is when scrolling the words first come up in English... can be sort of searched in Russian (i feel dirty...)

this might be highbeam headlight relay? (Реле дальнего света фар definitely) (with main beam on RHS of image?) (page 90 in text, or 94 in doc)
1704192161479.png
 
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Dales Cannon

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
#oldcorollas link shows positive switching. Hambo says you have H4 bulbs in the headlight which means high and low beam. This, if correct, means one of the three wires will have 12V only when highbeam is on. Unfortunately to get to the bulb involves pulling the inner guard and cover however armed with this dubious knowledge you should be able to find one wire in the loom that feeds the headlight that is 12V only when high beam is on. This is your mission if you choose to accept it. If you can't find a suitable plug then a sharp knife, solder and insulation tape are the go to bits.
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
Dales Cannon said:
NO! Do it properly. If you have a discrete 12V signal steal that with a patch cable or bare the wire and solder and use the tapped line to trigger a relay.
Click to expand...
That's what I do with old cars, not sure how it would go with the circuitry on the LED lights though as they can be quite sensitive. You also have reverse polarity from low to high beam with a delay relay on some cars, so you need to have a signal from both low and high beam.
 
Dales Cannon

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Flow-Rider said:
That's what I do with old cars, not sure how it would go with the circuitry on the LED lights though as they can be quite sensitive. You also have reverse polarity from low to high beam with a delay relay on some cars, so you need to have a signal from both low and high beam.
Click to expand...
These are basic halogens from what I found. Agree don't fuck with the canbus. I have to drop the nose off mine to do the lightbar and if you disconnect the radar unit, even with battery unplugged, it will chuck a code and disable all that shit until you visit a dealer. Mate's $lots scantool won't fix it. Bastards.
 
oldcorollas

oldcorollas

Levin the moment
Dales Cannon said:
These are basic halogens from what I found. Agree don't fuck with the canbus. I have to drop the nose off mine to do the lightbar and if you disconnect the radar unit, even with battery unplugged, it will chuck a code and disable all that shit until you visit a dealer. Mate's $lots scantool won't fix it. Bastards.
Click to expand...
exellent idea for Secret Santa for a mechanic :)
1704193585978.png
 
Minlak

Minlak

custom titis
I wanted to put Spot / Driving lights on the KTM 1290 SAS - Started pricing it up and putting quality lights on - Seems you need to use the Canbus system of the bike or it gets weird about voltage going somewhere it doesn't understand - $900 for the light kit and $549 for the Canbus controller to plug in - for $1500 ill risk it in the dark :)
 
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