1 x 9 setups

[The Mad Hippie]

I run a set of XTR m951 crank arms with a Boone Ti ring that goes straight on the spline where the old spider came off. 11-34 XT cassette on the rear. XT medium cage rear mech. Has dropped the chain a few times on the small cog so will look at some sort of keeper up front.
e

 

[Dreggsy]

if you manage to ride predominantly singletrack i'd reccomend it

just to note, i'm not saying that it's the best set up for XC RACING

whew lucky as i don't race XC

 

[Dreggsy]

I run a Boone Ti ring
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How long would a Ti ring last for?

 

[The Mad Hippie]

The boone rings last for ever. And with that I mean for ever. I haven't even scuffed the machining marks yet 3 chains in.
I had a 12-27 road cassette on for a while but came up short on a couple of climbs on a regular ride so the old 11-34 got used.
Was looking at trying 1x10 with a 10spd road flat bar shifter and an 11-28 road cassette.
E

 

[evObda2]

Im thinking of doing a 1x9 setup on my new commencal xc rig im building up.
I ride mainly DH (coming from a bmx racing background) so it will be built up more aggressively. It will be used mainly as a training/fitness bike to aid my DH riding.

What im thinking of doing is the same as whats on my 4x bike.
Its the e13 Lg1+ guide and a 34t renthal chainring (pic shows 36t).
I know e13 etc have cross country guides (without the taco and bottom roller) but i would like to have the taco and bottom roller as like i said i may have a tendancy to get all downhill all of a sudden on the trail!

My question is..
Is 34t x 11-34t a good ratio? Ive read a few posts and it seems to be around the mark.. And whether the taco chainguide etc is needed? Do you hit that many rocks in XC riding? Bearing in mind my style of riding etc.

Cheers
ev

 

[October26]

I have been using a 32 /11-14 setup for a while now and it suits me for trail riding around here.
Around here however before riding down you need to ride up for an hour. If your local trails require less climbing I would suggest a 34 - 36 ring.
I can cruise along the flat in my 32/11 gear comfortably at around 35-40 km/h.

 

[jeffandal]

I had my Salsa dos niner as 1x9 for the WSMTB 4hr with 35/11-32.
It worked great for around there.

Back to 3x9 for 24hr this w/e. The fireroad climb as a solo will be bad enough with 22/32 by 4am.

 

[The Mad Hippie]

Front chain guide

On my 1 x9 setup I have had on a few occasions the chain jumping off the front ring. Mainly on fast rough sections when I am in the smaller cogs on the rear. I looked at a few off the shelf chain keepers but decided to make my own using an e-type front mech.

First I pulled the whole thing apart and then cut the cage down to what I needed. There is 2 holes in the lower part of the main body I decided to use. I drilled 2 corresponding holes in the stainless cage and used washers to shim the cage out to the correct chain line.
Whole operation took 25 mins max.
This on a BMC TE02 frame I am going to use. Will post more when complete.

E

 

[The Mad Hippie]

Pretty well got my 1x9 sorted how I want it now. 34t ring front and 11-34 rear. Modified e-type mech works well.

E

 

[GeurieMTB]

Ive just gone 1x9 after thinking about it for a while. Ive started out with the stock 32 tooth middle ring, Im still running an x0 cassette and have added in the xcx chainguide, and its all so smooth

I saved about 500 grams (550 in parts lost, add in the xcx which i didnt weigh) as expected/advised and havent run out of ratios anywhere on my local trail yet.

If i was in the market for a new xc bike i think id be looking for 1x9 straight out of the box

 

[spikenet]

Looking at going 1x9 after running 2x9 for quite a while.

I've got XT M770 cranks and am going to get e.thirteen XCX, e.thirteen G-Ring (32t) and e.thirteen chainring bolt kit.

Does this look like all I should need for a simple reliable setup?

Any other options I should be considering?

cheers.

 

[Dreggsy]

Looking at going 1x9 after running 2x9 for quite a while.

I've got XT M770 cranks and am going to get e.thirteen XCX, e.thirteen G-Ring (32t) and e.thirteen chainring bolt kit.

Does this look like all I should need for a simple reliable setup?

Any other options I should be considering?

cheers.

That's exactly what i am using apart from the chain ring,
you might find 32t is to small, I'm using a 33t 11/32 on my setup
I have no problems with mine at all.

 

[The Mad Hippie]

32t up front is a good start.
Having run 11-34t with a 34 up front I have found top speed wanting.
If I was going to buy new parts to build up I would go a 36t up front and an 11-36 up back.
Would have to switch some small cogs on a 12-26 cassette to get it.
Other than that I would go straight to 1x10 as the bits are now available.

E

 

[The Mad Hippie]

Further to that.
Cheapest cost using Sram for 1x10 off Manufactures RRP.
X7
-Rear mech $119.95
-Shifter $59.95
-Cassette pg1050 $89.95
-Chain pc1050 $59.95
Total $329.80
Most expensive using XX
-Rear mech $359.95
-Shifter $199.95
-Cassette $399.95
-Chain $99.95
Total $1059.80

This is assuming you have a front ring of your choosing.

E

 

[spikenet]

Dreggsy, ok I'll think about a 33T up front. I've got some decent hills around here.. if I was just doing laps of Ourimbah or WS I'd probably go for 38 or 40.

Did you have to use spacers or anything to get your chainline nice with the XT cranks?

Mad hippy; I'm happy to use my existing 9sp on the back (all Sram X.0)

 

[madridingengineer]

Pretty well got my 1x9 sorted how I want it now. 34t ring front and 11-34 rear. Modified e-type mech works well.

how do find that for climbing? is the 1:1 low enough for sustained climbing??

Im just curious as im planning on going from a 36t to 32t front ring and keeping the 11-34t rear cassette so ive got .941 climbing ratio? But from what ive read here i am worried that ill lose top end speed...... I just normally ride DH/free ride and like the simplicity of one ring up front as i tend to get 'aggressive' when riding.

cheers

 

[The Mad Hippie]

how do find that for climbing? is the 1:1 low enough for sustained climbing??

Im just curious as im planning on going from a 36t to 32t front ring and keeping the 11-34t rear cassette so ive got .941 climbing ratio? But from what ive read here i am worried that ill lose top end speed...... I just normally ride DH/free ride and like the simplicity of one ring up front as i tend to get 'aggressive' when riding.

cheers

Where I ride I have more short sharp climbs and find myself on the edge of wheel spin anyway. The longest climb is only about 2km that I don't use the lowest gear for.
The one thing you loose on a 1x9 or 1x10 is range. The 36t rear opens this up.

E

 

[dyon]

I used 1x9 on my 29er at WSC24 with a front 32 (Cycle Underground on SLX) and rear 11-34 (PG990, X.0 short derailleur, X.0 GripShit). I was seated on all climbs for the whole event and most laps didn't need to drop to the 34. I find the 11 is a big enough gear for most situations and once I hit 110rpm I'm more than happy to coast down the hill from there.

I wanted to go smaller than the 32 for WSC24 but it would have meant much fiddling or sourcing another crank. (Plus Jeebus told me to stop whinging and toughen up.) I'll probably get a 34 or 36 for the spares box for any special occasions where there'll be lots of road and climbing is not such an issue.

I've got an MRP 1.x as a guide which replaces a spacer on the BB cup. One issue I found with this is that during a practice run down Pork Barrel my chain jumped and jammed in the 1.x. When I went to put the power down the 1.x was rotated forward and proceeded to loosen the RH BB cup. I think the real problem was that I hadn't torqued the BB cup tight enough, but it's something to watch out for as there can be a lot of torque through legs & cranks.

 

[Handekk]

jamming chain

I experienced the same problem with my MRP X.1 when going down a rough bit of trail, I think the problem is that the chain guide doesn't sit low enough to the 32t sprocket, the instuctions said that you should allow only about 2mm between chain and ceiling of chain guide but with the 2 that I own I can only get around 4mm (using the stock 32t Xt chain rings) which means that when it get really rough the chain jumps off the sprocket then jams up the giude which then spins on your BB.
The only thing is to get a bigger size sprocket, I have bought myself a 33t and hopefully the adjustment will allow for a better set up.
Overall though I have to say a 1x9(1x10) is a pretty good set up.

 

[jathanas]

MRP 1.x Setup

I experienced the same problem with my MRP X.1 when going down a rough bit of trail, I think the problem is that the chain guide doesn't sit low enough to the 32t sprocket, the instuctions said that you should allow only about 2mm between chain and ceiling of chain guide but with the 2 that I own I can only get around 4mm (using the stock 32t Xt chain rings) which means that when it get really rough the chain jumps off the sprocket then jams up the giude which then spins on your BB.
The only thing is to get a bigger size sprocket, I have bought myself a 33t and hopefully the adjustment will allow for a better set up.
Overall though I have to say a 1x9(1x10) is a pretty good set up.

Too right. If the MRP is setup right the chain will sort itself out if it jumps off, when you start pedalling again. I found it really frustrating until I got the guide close enough to the chain and more importantly aligned it on the 1pm position.

FWIW: I run 1 x 10, 36-11/36 and it rocks.