1 x 9 setups

[simplesimon76]

anyone running the Widgit. i've had one now for about 1200km, not too bad, only problem is it needs a bash guard. but apart from that, it never misses a beat.

 

[auskonrad]

anyone running the Widgit. i've had one now for about 1200km, not too bad, only problem is it needs a bash guard. but apart from that, it never misses a beat.

Why's that? The widgit system, to my ignorance, appears to provide the function of a bash guard in itself?

 

[October26]

I experienced the same problem with my MRP X.1 when going down a rough bit of trail, I think the problem is that the chain guide doesn't sit low enough to the 32t sprocket, the instuctions said that you should allow only about 2mm between chain and ceiling of chain guide but with the 2 that I own I can only get around 4mm (using the stock 32t Xt chain rings) which means that when it get really rough the chain jumps off the sprocket then jams up the giude which then spins on your BB.
The only thing is to get a bigger size sprocket, I have bought myself a 33t and hopefully the adjustment will allow for a better set up.
Overall though I have to say a 1x9(1x10) is a pretty good set up.

Weird I run the same setup and can put the guide all the way down to the chain, been a great setup for me!

 

[-iRideBikes-]

Why's that? The widgit system, to my ignorance, appears to provide the function of a bash guard in itself?

The 'guide panels' (as I'm guessing they're called) on a widgit are super thin aluminium. As a result they're not much use as a bash guard, certainly not against any impact strong enough to do damage to your drivetrain.

I use an MRP 1.x with 36th chainring/32th cassette and my old man uses a 34 tooth widgit/34th cassette. Both have been pretty much flawless, though personally I prefer the normal chain guide system as it functions as both a guide and a retainer (which the widgit doesn't) as well as allowing you to use different sized chain rings. My dads pretty chuffed with the widgit mind you... despite my jokes about his wimpy gear ratio

 

[jda]

anyone running the Widgit. i've had one now for about 1200km, not too bad, only problem is it needs a bash guard. but apart from that, it never misses a beat.

Yeah I have the 28t, works a treat.

 

[tomacropod]

I don't like the chain drag on the widgit. The inner guide makes it too difficult to fine tune chainline etc. It's a good idea but is not versatile enough, in my opinion. Modular solutions ftw!

- Joel

 

[Gripo]

Widgits work.

Have Widgit's on all 4 of my bikes either 28t & 34t, works as advertised with not one single chain drop.

I have had a large rock flicked up by the front tyre which bent the guide plate, had to stop and bend it back with a rock. When I got home I rebent the guide plate back with a set of pliers.

It's debatable as to wether these guide plates on the Widgit should be made "bashring" tough?

 

[steve24]

1x 10

Is a new RD needed to run 1x 10
I have read that most 9sp RDs will work for 10, so then one only needs shifter+ cass, chain (which are consumables anyway....)

Anyone tried?

 

[Josh Seksy]

Anyone using a 1 x 10 setup yet?

I need some help... Please see this thread

 

[crank1979]

Anyone using a 1 x 10 setup yet?

I need some help... Please see this thread

I am. I'm using a Renthal chainring with XT 10 speed stuff, chain, cassette, derailleur, etc. It all works well.

 

[Australia]

hey guys

I tend to stay in my middle chainring for all my riding except very long descents thus giving me 32/11-32 on a 26" dually. If I went 1x9 I'd probably go 34/11-34 (I need that 1/1 gear for 24hr races) and fit a chain guide of some sort.

What is the actual process to make this happen?

I guess I need to remove the front shifter+deraileur, remove the granny and big ring and fit spacers in their place, and fit a chain guide. Is it a complicated process?

 

[FR Drew]

Australia,

No spacers required to replace front and granny but ideally you should switch to a straight cut middle ring that isn't ramped or pinned.

You will need some form of chain guide up front, without question. I use a Rohloff, but MRP and e13 both make well respected ones too, as do DMR (although from memory theirs is pretty heavy)

 

[galumay]

Australia,

No spacers required to replace front and granny but ideally you should switch to a straight cut middle ring that isn't ramped or pinned.

You will need some form of chain guide up front, without question. I use a Rohloff, but MRP and e13 both make well respected ones too, as do DMR (although from memory theirs is pretty heavy)

Whether you need a chain guide upfront depends on the setup and the type of riding, I had an E13 but I ditched it and run with nothing and have had no problems - but then I am not riding any rough trails.

 

[Australia]

Australia,

No spacers required to replace front and granny but ideally you should switch to a straight cut middle ring that isn't ramped or pinned.

You will need some form of chain guide up front, without question. I use a Rohloff, but MRP and e13 both make well respected ones too, as do DMR (although from memory theirs is pretty heavy)

How do you get a straight chain line without spacers, surely that would make the middle ring slide inwards, or does the chain guide take care of that?

Whether you need a chain guide upfront depends on the setup and the type of riding, I had an E13 but I ditched it and run with nothing and have had no problems - but then I am not riding any rough trails.

I'm as smooth as a hack saw

 

[FR Drew]

In theory the middle ring would have as close to a central chainline as you'd get anyhow, it shouldn't need adjustment to work correctly as a single ring. Ultra precise chainline adjustment is really only required if you're setting up a singlespeed.

 

[Australia]

In theory the middle ring would have as close to a central chainline as you'd get anyhow, it shouldn't need adjustment to work correctly as a single ring. Ultra precise chainline adjustment is really only required if you're setting up a singlespeed.

thankgod I'll never have that problem (dont tell Zed I said that)

but in summary, all ive really got to do is rip off the superfluous rings + shifter and front derailleur and I'm good to go (then I'll replace the front ring with an unramped one and fit a chain guide)

 

[Tazdevil]

Stalled

I currently run a 1 x 9 setup on my s-works Stump Jumper using a Widget up front. There is a bit of chain rub on the guides but not too bad. Chain keeps on just fine. I am using a chopped down set of XTR cranks - looks a little ugly... (hack-sawed off the non standard chain ring bolt holes...)

I have purchased a 11-36T 10 speed XT cassette and short cage mech and 10 speed chains and 10 speed shifter. But I have stalled on what to do up front as I wish to change it... I cannot use chain keepers of any sort as I have a OSBB (I don't have threaded out board bearings) and a non circular seat tube to clamp anything on (front mech would be 'direct' fit I think - I didn’t have one when I got the frame...)

With bash guards on either side of a chain ring do you have to use a triple crank? No way to run bash rings on a double crank? (remember I cannot use a chain keeper) I would prefer to get a double crank and not a triple…

 

[Josh Seksy]

Just custom make a new mount for an mrp guide, so instead of it being a bb mount, it attaches to where your direct mount FD would normally go.
If your not the handy type, give Gripsport a ring, I reakon he'd be able to fashon you something!

 

[tomacropod]

Just custom make a new mount for an mrp guide, so instead of it being a bb mount, it attaches to where your direct mount FD would normally go.
If your not the handy type, give Gripsport a ring, I reakon he'd be able to fashon you something!

Old front derailleur clamps, reflector brackets, hose clamps are all good ways of setting up a front chainguide without an e-type plate. In fact, if you run a bashring as well, all you need is the 12g, $0 reflector bracket...

- Joel

 

[RichJS]

Old front derailleur clamps, reflector brackets, hose clamps are all good ways of setting up a front chainguide without an e-type plate.

tomacropod just did that for my NRS-SS last week. While the chain tension from my Alfine tensioner was quite high, rough high-speed sections would occaisonally dump the chain. Does the trick - and now I'm just like Julian Absalon.

Whether you need a chain guide upfront depends on the setup and the type of riding, I had an E13 but I ditched it and run with nothing and have had no problems - but then I am not riding any rough trails.

I've also run 1x9 without a chainguide on a HT and really can't recommend it. One day you'll lose the chain on a bump that looks too small to be an issue, and when it happens it could hurt a lot.

The 60 gram penalty of an XCX / 1.X is minor, and worthwhile.