1x10 Help

H

Hazza_

Squid
Hi all. I am relatively new to mountain biking. I have a Giant Trance X 0 29er 2013 which I bought cheap second hand a while ago, that was already converted to 1x chainring from its 2x10 factory setup. Rest of the bike is factory. Problem is, its a 34T and the cassette is still standard 11-36 XT. I am looking to get back to the factory climbing ratio of around 36/24 = 1.5 for low cost. I have done some research and appears options are: 1. Go back to a 2x10 (24/38) factory setup 2. Add a 24T (64bcd) inner chainring to the factory cranks along with the current 34T narrow/wide chainring and just leave the chain permanently on the 24T (high speed gearing I am not really worried about). 3. Add a 10speed CUES or Sunrace/Sunshine etc 11-48 cassette to the rear and hopefully re-use shifter, derailleur etc. Would prefer option 3, especially if I don't have to change shifter, hub and derailleur. Rear derailleur I believe is medium cage (Shimano Deore XT Shadow Plus) so maybe can't go as big as 48T? Any advice appreciated.

www.vitalmtb.com

2013 Giant Trance X 29er 0

Reviews, ratings, specifications, weight, price and more for the 2013 Giant Trance X 29er 0
www.vitalmtb.com www.vitalmtb.com
 
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From memory CUES 10-speed and your 10-speed are different pull ratios and the shifter won't be compatible. IIRC CUES runs (the narrower) 11sp spacing/pull ratio just has one less gear. Derailleur won't have a hope of coping with the extra teeth on an 11-48 cassette either.
 
i would just go with a 24T front chainring with or without if NW a front derailleur.
Except on ebikes, I dont find 1 x much good esp being elderly.
I X is great for the manufacturers .
Kool aiders will disagree.
 
Hazza_ said:
Hi all. I am relatively new to mountain biking. I have a Giant Trance X 0 29er 2013 which I bought cheap second hand a while ago, that was already converted to 1x chainring from its 2x10 factory setup. Rest of the bike is factory. Problem is, its a 34T and the cassette is still standard 11-36 XT. I am looking to get back to the factory climbing ratio of around 36/24 = 1.5 for low cost. I have done some research and appears options are: 1. Go back to a 2x10 (24/38) factory setup 2. Add a 24T (64bcd) inner chainring to the factory cranks along with the current 34T narrow/wide chainring and just leave the chain permanently on the 24T (high speed gearing I am not really worried about). 3. Add a 10speed CUES or Sunrise etc 11-48 cassette to the rear and hopefully re-use shifter, derailleur etc. Would prefer option 3, especially if I don't have to change shifter, hub and derailleur. Rear derailleur I believe is medium cage (Shimano Deore XT Shadow Plus) so maybe can't go as big as 48T? Any advice appreciated.

www.vitalmtb.com

2013 Giant Trance X 29er 0

Reviews, ratings, specifications, weight, price and more for the 2013 Giant Trance X 29er 0
www.vitalmtb.com www.vitalmtb.com
Click to expand...
Put a Wolftooth Goat Link into the rear derailleur and you can run the 11-48 Sunrace 10 spd cassette no problem. That's how my hardtail has run for a decade. Actually, that's not true because it's also now got a front derailleur as well.
 
rowdyflat said:
i would just go with a 24T front chainring with or without if NW a front derailleur.
Except on ebikes, I dont find 1 x much good esp being elderly.
I X is great for the manufacturers .
Kool aiders will disagree.
Click to expand...
Thanks. All the small/inner chainrings I have seen don't seem to be NW. Thus I didn't think it necessary?
 
silentbutdeadly said:
Put a Wolftooth Goat Link into the rear derailleur and you can run the 11-48 Sunrace 10 spd cassette no problem. That's how my hardtail has run for a decade. Actually, that's not true because it's also now got a front derailleur as well.
Click to expand...
Great info. I had seen the goatlink in my research, so good to know it (or the aliexpress kockoffs I imagine) will allow up to a 48T rear cog on standard DR.
 
ozzybmx said:
NW chainrings are not meant for changing gears, 1 by only.
Click to expand...
Correct. But since I need a smaller chainring option I want to use a 24T inside the current 34T NW. The chain will manually be moved between them, but mainly on the 24T for climbing. There will be no front DR. So back to the question, all the smaller/inner chainrings I have seen aren't NW as I assume the bigger chainring acts as a guide? So can I use a non-NW 24T, or do I still need a NW because there will be no DR to help stop dropped chains?
 
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Hazza_ said:
Correct. But since I need a smaller chainring option I want to use a 24T inside the current 34T NW. The chain will manually be moved between them, but mainly on the 24T for climbing. There will be no front DR. So back to the question, all the smaller/inner chainrings I have seen aren't NW as I assume the bigger chainring acts as a guide? So can I use a non-NW 24T, or do I still need a NW because there will be no DR to help stop dropped chains?
Click to expand...

No, the front derailleur cage acts as a guide but as you wont have one, I would be looking at the old school way of retaining the chain on the smaller ring using a drop stop finger of some sort for the inside, either BB spacer mounted or mounted onto the front derailleur plate (if you have one)

If you have a clutched rear mech it would also help.

Here's a oldie from my 9spd 2009 Vassago, 1 x using a drop stop on the inside and a thin bash ring on the outside. It still dropped the chain occasionally but clutched derailleurs and NW chainrings were not invented yet.

P1030552.JPG
 
Hazza_ said:
Correct. But since I need a smaller chainring option I want to use a 24T inside the current 34T NW. The chain will manually be moved between them, but mainly on the 24T for climbing. There will be no front DR. So back to the question, all the smaller/inner chainrings I have seen aren't NW as I assume the bigger chainring acts as a guide? So can I use a non-NW 24T, or do I still need a NW because there will be no DR to help stop dropped chains?
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I have several set ups like that where I manually change .the gear from NW 32 or 34 T to the inner 24 or 26 T .
The small inner one doesnt have to be a Narrow Wide , I have never had it fall off.
There is a brand of NW 26 tooth chain ring I have , cant remember the brand.
I am a real spinner so I like low gears so with 26 x 40 at the back its low you can stick to 9 ,10 or 11 speed and you dont need a pizza dish at the back..
 
rowdyflat said:
I have several set ups like that where I manually change .the gear from NW 32 or 34 T to the inner 24 or 26 T .
The small inner one doesnt have to be a Narrow Wide , I have never had it fall off.
There is a brand of NW 26 tooth chain ring I have , cant remember the brand.
I am a real spinner so I like low gears so with 26 x 40 at the back its low you can stick to 9 ,10 or 11 speed and you dont need a pizza dish at the back..
Click to expand...
That's gold info, as that's exactly what I am going to try first. Cheap, quick and low cost to see if that will do me. I am going with a 24 x 36 so very close to your 26 x 40. The standard mech is clutched so hopefully will be fine on the non-NW 24 inner. If not I can try Ozzy's suggestion of a drop stop.
 
Hazza_ said:
Correct. But since I need a smaller chainring option I want to use a 24T inside the current 34T NW. The chain will manually be moved between them, but mainly on the 24T for climbing. There will be no front DR. So back to the question, all the smaller/inner chainrings I have seen aren't NW as I assume the bigger chainring acts as a guide? So can I use a non-NW 24T, or do I still need a NW because there will be no DR to help stop dropped chains?
Click to expand...
The combination of a bigger ring and a drop-stop device or FD keeps the chain on the little ring. You won't find N/W rings with a 64mm BCD; that BCD is only used for small rings that work in a multi-ring setup, which need to be shaped for shifting.
 
The Duckmeister said:
The combination of a bigger ring and a drop-stop device or FD keeps the chain on the little ring. You won't find N/W rings with a 64mm BCD; that BCD is only used for small rings that work in a multi-ring setup, which need to be shaped for shifting.
Click to expand...

After Rowdy posted and said he couldn't remember the brand, I did a bit of BoBo.

www.wolftoothcomponents.com

64 BCD Chainrings

64 BCD 104 BCD crankset granny ring drop stop narrow wide
www.wolftoothcomponents.com www.wolftoothcomponents.com

Australia.

WOLF TOOTH 64 BCD CHAINRINGS

WOLF TOOTH 64 BCD CHAINRINGS
www.scvimports.com.au www.scvimports.com.au
 
Yeah thats the one
.I have the 26T as the inside for when its uphill , at the top I lift the chain onto the 32 T.
I am not the only one.
Mated with 11-40 at the back its good.
Mostly where we ride it isnt undulating.
 
rowdyflat said:
Yeah thats the one
.I have the 26T as the inside for when its uphill , at the top I lift the chain onto the 32 T.
I am not the only one.
Mated with 11-40 at the back its good.
Mostly where we ride it isnt undulating.
Click to expand...

To be honest, by the time you piss around with drop stops and other shit, you might as well just raid piggy and buy the fckn very expensive WT ring.
 
Dont worry Hazza think for yourself, many people will just want you to be a sheep and conform to the current fashion which is 1 x.
As I said it suits manufacturers ,they dont have to adjust front derailleurs and can sell huge dinner plate clusters that are expensive.
 
ozzybmx said:
After Rowdy posted and said he couldn't remember the brand, I did a bit of BoBo.

Australia.

WOLF TOOTH 64 BCD CHAINRINGS

WOLF TOOTH 64 BCD CHAINRINGS
www.scvimports.com.au www.scvimports.com.au
Click to expand...
Thanks. Although that's a quarter of the cost of the whole bike, so I'll go with a $10 normal inner chainring and see how it goes. For that kind of money I would rather go a big rear cassette and goat link to use with my 34T NW.
 
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