1x9 setup

[C Dunlop]

Hi guys,
MY plan for my next bike is a fully rigid, steel, XC with 1X9 gearing. I need a little advice regarding the drivetrain setup. Maybe DH riders with 1X9 gearing would be best placed to answer.

I would like a fairly large front chainring (36 or 38T). My query relates to the compatability of this to a shimano XT or XTR rear derailleur. The specifications I can find state that they have a "22T maximum front tooth difference" Does this mean that an 11-23 rear cassette would be incompatible?

Also, the choice seems a little limited for front chainrings as 36 and 38 tooth are slightly larger than the typical 34T single speed setup and between the typical middle and large chainring sizes for triple-ring cranks. To this end, does anyone know if a middleburn RS8 spider is compatible with road rings. If they are then this widens the choice for me as 38T is a pretty common size for middle rings on triple-ring road cranksets.

Any thoughts, help and queries most appreciated.

 

[No Skid Marks]

38tooth rings are common place now days(for MTB), and 36 are becoming more popular, any shop can get them easy.
It'll work fine with the XTR cassette. I'd say you'd want to either run a 11-34 rear or a smaller front though, as you won't be able to climb for shit otherwise. The bigger wheels make the gearing higher than 26" wheels.
I dare say you'll need a chain guide.

 

[C Dunlop]

It shall be a 26 though. I am only allowed one bike, and have liked the single speeds I have ridden but get frustrated that I can't pick up any extra speed going down hill. I have a "regular" XC HT at the moment, but am sick of spending more time fixing it than riding it, thus the change. Simple is the way of the future.

Besides, steep hills are for looking at, not riding up. Not a racer.

Thanks heaps, will get some pics up in a few months I guess.

 

[Fred Nurk]

I would assume that the statement that "22t maximum front tooth difference" is referring to the difference between the number of teeth on the chainrings, and thus the amount of change in chain tension that can be taken up. As most mtb triple sets are 22 34 44 or similar, this meets the criteria, though as noted, since you're only intending to run a 1x9, this is irrelevant.

What would be worth considering for such a setup is the cage length, and ensuring that this is matched to the cassette spread, so that the chain tension is always maintained. To my mind, and I'm only going on speculation, it would then be easier to maintain chain tension with an 11-23 rather than an 11-34, however, with such a proposed size of front chainring, I'd still be wanting to go the 11-32 / 11-34 as an 11-23 to me would be too restrictive, though admittedly the 11-34 won't make any difference to your issue of going down hills.

No Skid Marks is probably right though, you'll still need a chain guide.

 

[Christo]

Yep, you'll need a chain guide - especially on a rigid bike - perhaps something like the Rohloff chain cage - it's a bit more discreet. At minimum a locked out front changer.

I think a better option if you like low maintenance is to invest in an Afline or Rohloff internally geared hub, you'll find a 1x9 setup is just as maintenance intensive as a 3x9 but with half the gear range. Going internal gives you the clean chainline & look of SS but with a long lasting, bend-proof rear changer.

Also, 36 & 38 chainrings for 104 or 110 bcd are easy to source - Blackspire rings are nice & available in heaps of sizes...

 

[b_S]

DMR chain cage or similar would be great for it.

Not a bad idea, simplifying things... but as said, you still have derailleurs. If I were making the commitment to a 1x9 I'd defintely look at hub gears, even a Nexus "red stripe" (wtf, beer gears?) if you're running rim brakes.

 

[No Skid Marks]

Sorry, I don't know what made me think it was a 29er set up.
I've been running 1X9 for the past 8 years, well that's a lie, I ran 1X8 for the first couple, then switched to 9 to get the 34tooth rear, for a couple of years, then back to 8 for the durability/reliability, and ease of tunning.
1X8(9) is a lot less maintanence and tunning than 3X9. Front deraileurs suck, I'm glad to be rid of them.
The main reason for change for me was to have the chain guide to stop it coming off, and know I can safely stomp in any conditions. I strongly advise a guide over a tensioner.
A rear geared hub is even less maintanense, and I too reccomend this idea if you don't mind the weight. Only for a road use bike though, even if they're strong enough, the weight would suck at the rear in the dirt.
I run a short cage on a 11-32 no worries, I think I've run it on a 34 too, with a 38 front only, it doesn't change the chain length enough to worry. If your running a 11-24 you might aswell just run a road mech. I use Sram so it's X0 for me.
Will take a few weeks to get used to it, but I do all riding on my hardtail with this set up, and if it's too steep I just walk, it's faster than spinning in granny anyway, and I find the recovery lets me power past those than spun it out in granny, once the hill stops.

 

[alchemist]

Another other option to a chain guide would be to run a 'cross guard or a bash ring and Deda Dog Fang (or similar). Or even run two cross guards - one either side of the chain ring.

The Rolhoff Chain device may need some adjustment to work over a full spread of 9 gears, since it is designed to work with just a single cog drive chain.

 

[No Skid Marks]

Forgot until I was riding my bike home then, I'm now running 1X6 to get a dishless rear wheel. It's a 11-28 or 30 cassette with 8 speed shifting on a Profile SS hub. Will chuck my Hadley 5 speed on when I can be bothered.Sorry for the derail, just outlining some things you my not have though of. 1X9 with guide is fine though.

 

[b_S]

That's a good point - if you're going for the simplicity that SS gives but are cheating a little to have a few gears to save exploded knees, a 5 or 6 speed setup with bigger jumps between sprockets is a great idea if you were looking to buy another hub for the build... get a Hope trials hub and run a rebuilt cassette.

 

[RowanT]

n-gear jump stop

I've had good success running 1x9 using an n-gear jump stop to prevent chain drop (http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/). They're a super simple little device, and cost bugger all. They weigh a lot less than tensioners/guides, too. I'm not sure if you can get them in Aus, but you could probably get one posted out here for not much.

 

[Sov]

Yeah I used a N-Gear Jump Stop when I was running 1x9. I got mine from phantomcycles.com.au for about $20 I think. You need to run a bashring as well to stop it from falling off to the outside of your chainring.

It worked really well. I had mine set up with the Jump Stop, an 11-34 cassette and a 32t chainring and never dropped a chain once. Had a roady derailleur as well.

 

[3viltoast3r]

1X8(9) is a lot less maintanence and tunning than 3X9. Front deraileurs suck, I'm glad to be rid of them.

I hate front deraileurs! Ive been running a 1x8 setup for 10 months now, and other than throwing on some lube every now and again Ive only had to play with the limits once and the tension another time.

Its soo much nicer than having stupid rubbing noises, chain falling off and worrying about what gear your in (to stop crossing the chain line). For me its just as simple as easier or harder to pedal, followed by some mashing.

BTW Im running a MRP SB3 guide on a FR/DH HT. Great guide but not the lightest for your purposes.

 

[FR Drew]

I've been running a 1x9 setup with an 11-34 cassette , a middleburn uno front ring and a rohloff guide for a couple of years now.

As others have said, front mechs suck and I'm glad to be rid of em.

 

[C Dunlop]

As much as I love riding super-cool, latest and greatest bikes, I get frustrated at expensive repairs, unavailable parts, mystery failures and so on. The bike will be along the lines of this:

Frame: On-one inbred - white
Fork: rigid, undecided, not sure if I want carbon, suggestions???
Wheels: something like XT hubs to Mavic XC717 - solid, not too bling

other bits:
hayes brakes
34/36 front ring maybe race face or ideally middleburn

XT rear derailuer - X.0 or XTR might be nice, but I would stress out about it

A bright, colourful E thirteen bashie and one of those n-gear jump stop jobbies. Salsa use them on the el mariarchi completes, and it looks like the perfect part.

Unfortunately this has to be put off for a few months as I am moving overseas, but it is definately going to be the new bike for this year.

If anyone wants to throw out ideas for parts, especially forks, that would be awesome.

Also, what r/d are you running with the 11-34 out the back?

 

[RowanT]

As much as I love riding super-cool, latest and greatest bikes, I get frustrated at expensive repairs, unavailable parts, mystery failures and so on. The bike will be along the lines of this:

Frame: On-one inbred - white
Fork: rigid, undecided, not sure if I want carbon, suggestions???
Wheels: something like XT hubs to Mavic XC717 - solid, not too bling

other bits:
hayes brakes
34/36 front ring maybe race face or ideally middleburn

XT rear derailuer - X.0 or XTR might be nice, but I would stress out about it

A bright, colourful E thirteen bashie and one of those n-gear jump stop jobbies. Salsa use them on the el mariarchi completes, and it looks like the perfect part.

Unfortunately this has to be put off for a few months as I am moving overseas, but it is definately going to be the new bike for this year.

If anyone wants to throw out ideas for parts, especially forks, that would be awesome.

Also, what r/d are you running with the 11-34 out the back?

How tall are you? If you're over 6 foot, I'd seriously consider a 29er. I'm 6'3" and ride a Vassago Jabberwocky. It handles like a dream, and the big wheels roll sooooo fast and smooth over everything. I had a Bontrager Switchblade X-lite carbon fork on it for a while, but I changed over to an RST m-29. Great fork for an amazing price if you order it from on-one.

 

[C Dunlop]

How tall are you? If you're over 6 foot, I'd seriously consider a 29er. I'm 6'3" and ride a Vassago Jabberwocky. It handles like a dream, and the big wheels roll sooooo fast and smooth over everything. I had a Bontrager Switchblade X-lite carbon fork on it for a while, but I changed over to an RST m-29. Great fork for an amazing price if you order it from on-one.

I am 6 foot, which is Probably just under the height where I would consider a 29er. I've ridden a surly 1x1 and loved it, if only it had a hanger! Those vassagos look amazing enough to make me think about one, I also thought about a Soma Groove, but I just don't really like them that much. I wish On-one were still making their steel fork, and would probably prefer to not go down the carbon route. I guess I will just have to keep my eyes for the perfect bits.

 

[Pete J]

I've been running a 1 x 9 set up all (northern Hemisphere) winter without a chain guide and haven't dropped a chain once. I have a 36 tooth ring and bashguard up front and an 11-32 cassette out back.
Mind you, my chain is the shortest possible for the rear derailleur to still work properly, so chain length IS a factor.
However i have only been commuting on it so take this with a grain of salt...