2004 Giant NRS 1

[drew.d]

Now, I know, old bike. I'm learning that painfully when I tried to have the rear shock replaced recently and nobody makes a shock short enough to fit it. But, I still see a few of these around.

My question is, does anybody have experience of putting 100mm forks on these. The Manitou Skarebs on them are smooth and feel like a very deep 80mm (but bobby out of the saddle), but a bit thin and flexy. I figure some nice sturdy 100mm air sprung forks would be great, and slacken the head angle a bit for a more playful ride. Does this match up with other people's experience?

Any other pointers on keeping this bike going would be much appreciated

 

[gixer7]

I can't help with answering whether 100mm forks work on the NRS but if you got a set of forks like say the current Rockshox SID which are convertable to either 80mm or 100mm you could try both options and see which you prefer. You'd also get yourself a better fork than that old Skareb.

Not sure if it's out of your budget (or you're a FOX or Manitou fan) but it's what I would do.

Old bike maybe but I'd love to have one of the carbon versions sitting in my garage!

 

[Blackthorn]

A friend of mine is running some F100's on hers and she likes it heaps better than the SIDS she had (80mm, Noodle much?) it didn't affect the head angle all that much etc.

If you have a spare pair of 100mm's, give it a shot and see if you like it?

 

[drew.d]

Budget is an issue... that's the reason for the old bike! I'm a postgrad student, so $ are limited for upgrades. Plan is to slowly build it up into a decent XC bike. I take the point on adjustable travel though, that makes sense.

Blackthorn, what do you mean precisely by "noodling"?

 

[Bundy boy]

I have put a set of reba's on my NRS 2 with no trouble at all.
Best thing l ever did to my bike, it feels soooooo much better.

 

[velocidad]

yep you'll love it, I had Fox F100's on my med '05 NRS rode fine

 

[Hornsby]

+1 for Bundy Boy's comment
I put a pair of Fox F100RLC on my 2004 NRS2 instead of the stocks manitous which were so soft and flexible and I got a much better bike in return. The main improvement came from the increased stiffness not the increased travel though as the previous fork was 110-70mm I think.

 

[hiredassassin]

Blackthorn, what do you mean precisely by "noodling"?

noodling: feeling like your front wheel is connected to the frame via a noodle. ie. wobbly, loose, flexible
- the opposite of what you want.

I've had 2 NRSs and both had 100mm forks. My favourite was the 16inch NRS which was too small for me, but with a 100mm fork (now has a 80-120mm fork on it i think), felt like a mini-downhill machine - very chuckable and playful.

 

[drew.d]

noodling:...
- the opposite of what you want.

Yeah, I figured it was pretty much that, but sometimes you never know with terminology

Sounds like a new fork will really improve the ride, but I think my budget will only stretch to some Toras...

 

[RichJS]

Now, I know, old bike. I'm learning that painfully when I tried to have the rear shock replaced recently and nobody makes a shock short enough to fit it.

I don't think you were looking hard enough. Most current model XC shocks are made in the size you want - 165x38mm. I quick check online shows XC models from Fox, RockShox, Manitou, Marzocchi and DT Swiss. I have a 2004 NRS2 and I'm trying to find an RP23 cheap - but the main issue is trying to justify spending any money on a new shock when the factory one is still pretty good.

My question is, does anybody have experience of putting 100mm forks on these.

I just did some upgrading bits and singlespeeding on my NRS (clicky.)

Rule of thumb: 20mm travel/axle-crown = approx 1 degree angle change.

I broke the factory Manitous years ago - they were 70-100mm adjustable, btw. Also, the flex was horrible. If yours are anywhere near as bad, any new fork is going to feel awesome.

The Mantious were replaced with some 2nd hand Marzocchi AM3s (going cheap the week I needed new forks.) These forks are 130mm and have an axle-crown distance 40mm longer than the new (2008) SIDs on the bike, which are set at 100mm. IE, they were a bit too slack, but that didn't hold me back much.

So yeah, maybe look out for some RS Rebas, Manitou Minute, or a Fox F100 2nd hand that aren't too old/worn out but still pretty cheap. Keep an eye on the Rotorburn for sale area. Your local club's classifieds too. Scour the online stores until one coughs up a heavy discount on a model you like perhaps?

Consider a 30.9mm (or 30.8mm, but they're harder to find) seat post if you're still on a 27.2mm + shim, and it creaks and cracks like so many other riders' ones do.

 

[drew.d]

That's a nice looking single speed. Great job on it. And thanks for the tip on the seat post, I'll check that out.

I don't think you were looking hard enough. Most current model XC shocks are made in the size you want - 165x38mm.

Hmmm, this is interesting, I didn't do the looking - the bike is in at KOM in Neutral Bay, and they were the ones who informed me they were having trouble finding something that fits. But, they said it was the shock's "throw" that was the problem - is this something different?

they were 70-100mm adjustable, btw

The Manitou Skarebs on there aren't the stock forks, and the coil versions I have aren't adjustable. I picked it up 3rd hand, and so I don't know the history. My mate, who had it sitting in his garage doing nothing, didn't know anything about it. I'm presuming the originals broke and these were fitted as a replacement.

Lots to do then!

 

[RichJS]

Hmmm, this is interesting, I didn't do the looking - the bike is in at KOM in Neutral Bay, and they were the ones who informed me they were having trouble finding something that fits. But, they said it was the shock's "throw" that was the problem - is this something different?

I'm 99.9% sure that it takes a 165x38mm shock. Any discussions I've read online about "which shock for the NRS" all say 165x38mm.

FYI: The first of the two measurements I mentioned - 165mm or 6.5" - is the eye to eye distance. That's the distance from the middle of the mounting hole at one end of the shock, to the middle of the hole at the other (with the shock uncompressed.) The second - 38mm or 1.5" - is the travel of the shock, or stroke. That's the difference in length between when the shock is uncompressed, and fully compressed.

Pretty sure I've measured the eye-to-eye distance on the shock and it's 165mm. Perhaps the bike store think the shock is a rare model with a stroke other than 38mm? All 165mm shocks I have ever seen are 38mm stroke.

Or, it's possible that the aussie distributors of the various shocks are low/currently run out of 165x38mm mm shocks.

I think that the Fox Vanilla R AVA on our bikes is unusual in that it has a constant negative air pressure of 50PSI, which you don't find on other shocks. But that doesn't mean it can't be replaced with something else as long as it's the right eye-to-eye and stroke.

 

[Handekk]

re shock

I recently got a shock from the CRC website (165 x 38mm), there are plenty to chose from fox, manitou etc.
and very well priced and it only takes about a week from England.

 

[drew.d]

I think that the Fox Vanilla R AVA on our bikes is unusual in that it has a constant negative air pressure of 50PSI,

It's a Rockshox SID Rear on mine, (they don't make it anymore) but otherwise, it has the negative air chamber at 50psi. But it's the negative airchamber that has been destroyed, hence the need for a new one.

Nonetheless, I think I'll have to have a bit more of a conversation with the mechanic then...