2011 Specialized Epic 29er carbon feedback

[setonz]

PF30 is the b@stard cousin of BB30. It allows manufacturers to get away with not having to make the frames to the same high tolerances that a true BB30 frame requires.
The adapter is pressed into the frame using something like a headset press. The adapter can be punched out with the same toot used for removing headsets.

please dont come anywhere near my bb30 frames if you think thats how to work on them!

 

[setonz]

You seem to know a lot about this bike. Do you know why the frame specs say the bottom bracket is PF 30, but the bottom bracket is listed as an out board?

Sorry for the late reply ( long travel time in Singapore)

The Need for Spec to use a PF 30 adaptor in the carbon comp is to keep the bike in a certain price range by using a cheaper non bb30 crank. This is exactly the same frame as the $6000 rrp bike, just painted a diff colour.
The adaptor in the frame is not like the cannondale bb30 adaptors, it is actually a two peice item that is threaded together , with a second internal thread for bsc type bottom brackets.

 

[Timbers]

So Specialized claim their oversized hub to fork interface is actualy stiffer than a QR15 fork.
Having ridden both I have to say either the wheel builds on the Epic 29ers are exceptionaly soft (even by 29er standards) OR the Specialized marketing dep is responsible for the claim as opposed the engineers because the front end on all Epic 29ers I have ridden is soft to say the least (comparatively to other tapered ht/ QR15 front end 29ers). Its a shame as the rear end is so good with 12x 142.

Thinking Epic comp 29er, ditch the wheels (stupid heavy) and change the fork lowers to 20mm Maxle Light.

Any thoughts on riding experiences re front axle stiffness?

 

[pistonbroke]

So Specialized claim there oversized hub to fork interface is actualy stiffer than a QR15 fork.
Having ridden both I have to say either the wheel builds on the Epic 29ers are exceptionaly soft (even by 29er standards) OR the Specialized marketing dep is responsible for the claim as opposed the engineers because the front end on all Epic 29ers I have ridden is soft to say the least (comparatively to other tapered ht/ QR15 fornt end 29ers). Its a shame as the rear end is so good with 12x 142.

Thinking Epic comp 29er, ditch the wheels (stupid heavy) and change the fork lowers to 20mm Maxle Light.

Any thoughts on riding experiences re front axle stiffness?

I agree, don't believe the hype. My 26" alloy epic has the 28mm caps and the front end still feels like a wet noodle. It's my only gripe with the bike.

 

[singlespeeding is the way]

I test rode both the 26" and 29" epic at a Spesh demo day a few weeks ago.

Given I ride a ss both blew my mind but..... I prefer the 26" version.

On the Stromlo switchbacks the 29" felt very 'wollowy' and on the way down the hill it felt nervous and skittish - though the latter was probably due to suspension setup.

The 26" epic was amazing - it felt planted and nimble.

 

[DaSchmooze]

I may need to put this question in the parts and maintenance section but I'l start here first. Forgive the agricultural nature of this question too as I don't know the technical terms for describing it.

For my rear thru axle skewer I cant seem to get this right - if I tighten to the same tension as my front, the back wheel free spin is slowed considerably as it feels as if I over tighten it, but if I loosen it the wheel rattles around. There doesn't appear to be a happy medium... any suggestions?

 

[mtb101]

I may need to put this question in the parts and maintenance section but I'l start here first. Forgive the agricultural nature of this question too as I don't know the technical terms for describing it.

For my rear thru axle skewer I cant seem to get this right - if I tighten to the same tension as my front, the back wheel free spin is slowed considerably as it feels as if I over tighten it, but if I loosen it the wheel rattles around. There doesn't appear to be a happy medium... any suggestions?

doesn't that mean that the cones or lock nuts close to the hub bearings are loose and 'tightening up' when you tighten up the axle, so get them tight (lock nut) with some minor movement, then put axle in and tighten. You might need to trail and error this, i.e. allow minor play in bearings as axle will load bearings a bit and take up slack.

 

[nana]

mtb101
doesn't that mean that the cones or lock nuts close to the hub bearings are loose and 'tightening up' when you tighten up the axle, so get them tight (lock nut) with some minor movement, then put axle in and tighten. You might need to trail and error this, i.e. allow minor play in bearings as axle will load bearings a bit and take up slack.

The bearings are cartridge not cup and cone (like shimano).. might be obvious but check brake rub? Avid have a small tolerance with the pads and that extra little tighten could be enough to cause rub.. if it still doesn't roll get the hub checked is my guess..

 

[DaSchmooze]

Thanks for the help guys. The LBS reckons it's brake rub so hopefully it will be fixed when I get it back this arvo.

 

[DaSchmooze]

Added a pair of easton ec90 bars to my Comp and went for a ride. Wow - improved the handling by far more than what I would have thought. Loving this bike!

 

[Jubas]

There's a ride report up on twentynineinches.com now